Reloading - Distance to the Lands

ndbwhunter

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I've been reloading for quite a while, but never really been concerned with seat depth. Always just adjusted the depth to make sure that the bullets fit into the magazine. Could someone please give me some instructions on measuring the distance to the lands. I'd like to know where I'm at so I can fine tune my loads.

I've read through nozler's instructions but I'm not real sure what to do once you've measured the overall case length (bottom of case to the tip of the bullet).
 


Kurtr

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Get thishttp://media.midwayusa.com/productimages/880x660/Primary/570/570611.jpg
And thishttp://m.hornady.com/store/images/T/b14.jpg

Then you know distance to lands can measure ogive and jump or jammed to your desired measurements

- - - Updated - - -

Get thishttp://media.midwayusa.com/productimages/880x660/Primary/570/570611.jpg
And thishttp://m.hornady.com/store/images/T/b14.jpg

Then you know distance to lands can measure ogive and jump or jammed to your desired measurements

- - - Updated - - -

Pictures did not work.
 

Enslow

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I just long load an unprimed case then i chamber the round. The bullet will push in then you know your longest COAL.
 

PrairieGhost

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I use a bullet comparator. Before I had that I would use the sizing die to size the neck just enough to hold a bullet, but let it slide with slight pressure. When you chamber a round that has a bullet held firmly it will force the bullet into the lands. A bullet that can slide will touch the lands then push back into the case giving you an acceptable measurement. Start off with bullets seated back .010 less than your measurement.
Also if you don't have a headspace gauge smoke the shoulder of your case to indicate when your sizing die contacts the shoulder. By setting back .001 instead of .005 you can double your case life.

Forgot this trick: In the past I would full length size my brass then split the neck with a hacksaw. It creates perfect tension for your bullet to check seating depth.
 
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SDMF

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Sharpies are easier than smoking shoulders and/or ogives as a means of indicating engagement.
 

SDMF

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Hmmmmm how does a sharpy indicate when you full length sizing die contacts your shoulder? I don't understand.

The same way smoke does, you see the rub where it's engaged the lands/die/chamber.
 

PrairieGhost

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The same way smoke does, you see the rub where it's engaged the lands/die/chamber.
On for sure, but I was talking shoulder for headspace, not bullet seating depth. We got wires crossed in our conversation. I completely agree, smoke is to delicate for me to work with when looking for seating depth. People do it, but I guess I am to clumsy.
 


ndbwhunter

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Thanks for the information, guys! So, let's see if I got this right.

1. Color bullet with sharpie
2. Seat bullet enough so the case holds it
3. Chamber round and close bolt
4. Noticeable mark on bullet
5. ????

So what do I do with that mark then? Do I measure from the bottom of the case to the mark and then go a little beyond that for my seat depth? Might make more sense if I actually just do it.
 

Kurtr

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Vet a bullet comparator to measure the ogive. That is the mark on the bullet where it engages the lands
 

Kentucky Windage

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Thanks for the information, guys! So, let's see if I got this right.

1. Color bullet with sharpie
2. Seat bullet enough so the case holds it
3. Chamber round and close bolt
4. Noticeable mark on bullet
5. ????

So what do I do with that mark then? Do I measure from the bottom of the case to the mark and then go a little beyond that for my seat depth? Might make more sense if I actually just do it.

The mark on the colored bullet just tells you that you have contacted the lands. The mark will be on the Ogive of the bullet. This is where I would recommend getting a comparator (a tool that bolts on to our caliper and measure the seating depth at the Ogive instead of the tip of the bullet). Ogive measurement is a more accurate way of measuring seating depth because bullets can have tip to tip variation giving you mixed readings on your caliper. So after you crush a case with semi free moving bullet in your chamber and pull it back out, adjust your seating die to achieve a jump or jam in the lands. If you want a jump, seat the bullet deeper, color it with the sharpie again and confirm that you are in fact jumping the bullet and not contacting the lands.
 

SDMF

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The mark on the colored bullet just tells you that you have contacted the lands. The mark will be on the Ogive of the bullet. This is where I would recommend getting a comparator (a tool that bolts on to our caliper and measure the seating depth at the Ogive instead of the tip of the bullet). Ogive measurement is a more accurate way of measuring seating depth because bullets can have tip to tip variation giving you mixed readings on your caliper. So after you crush a case with semi free moving bullet in your chamber and pull it back out, adjust your seating die to achieve a jump or jam in the lands. If you want a jump, seat the bullet deeper, color it with the sharpie again and confirm that you are in fact jumping the bullet and not contacting the lands.

That.
 

Kentucky Windage

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Also, make sure the markings you are seeing on the bullet are from the lands. Removing the case can cause markings from the ejector. I try to guide the case out straight back instead of letting the ejector pull it to the side. Less markings to decipher from.
 


PrairieGhost

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The same way smoke does, you see the rub where it's engaged the lands/die/chamber.
On for sure, but I was talking shoulder for headspace, not bullet seating depth. We got wires crossed in our conversation. I completely agree, smoke is to delicate for me to work with when looking for seating depth. People do it, but I guess I am to clumsy.
 

Norske

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Hornady bought the old Stoney Point OAL measuring device. Scheels sells them and the modified cartridge cases you need. Just follow the directions exactly and you'll know the OAL that places THAT bullet on the lands. Remeasure for different bullets.
How far off the lands? .03" is a starting point, if the rifle's magazine is long enough. Testing different OAL settings will tell you what that barrel wants.
A caution, and it's important. If you seat the bullet further out than factory length, you have increased the powder capacity of the case a tiny %, but you've reduced the freebore (distance the bullet jumps before meeting resistance) by a large %. Don't assume you can use the same powder charge with an extended seating depth!
Your best friend is a chronograph. After seating the bullet longer than factory spec, return to starting loads and slowly work up to whatever velocity the powder or bullet maker's reloading manual says you will reach with a maximum powder charge. STOP. You have reached max permissible chamber pressure, no matter how much power you have in the case. Now use the powder charge that's most accurate.
My 338WM with longer than factory OAL reaches the published velocity with 3 grains less powder than the powder maker says I need for that velocity. My 30-06 takes 2 grains less. Both loads are quite accurate for over-the-counter game rifles (sub 1" five-shot groups @ 100 yards).
 

Norske

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Checked the reloading data for Barnes and they still recommend seating .050" off the lands. That may be good advice for any bullet that doesn't have a soft lead core.
 


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