Broadhead tuning

H82bogey · Aug 19, 2016

For you archery guru's out there.

I decided to try a different fixed blade this year. It's the DRT single bevel. It's a two blade with two bleeder blades. I've never had much of an issue with planning, but last night shot it at 20 yards and holy crap. Planning 3-4" left every time. I tried to tune the broad head and my best results came when I would get the main blades parallel with the ground. Still would plane 2" left at 20 yards.

I have shot the exodus the last couple of years, but didn't have one screwed in an arrow so I will have to go back and shoot those to compare results, but I've never had a planning issue with those before.

So my question is, what have you done to fix the issue? I did a spin text and the blades are flush. I'm not shooting at super fast speeds. 496 grain arrow at 273 fps.

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance. A picture of the broadhead in question is below.

Sub_Elect · Aug 19, 2016

How well is you bow paper tuned? If it's paper tuned well or you don't know how to paper tune then try walk back tuning. When I get my bow tuned up with walk back or paper, I shoot broadheads at the same point of impact as field points. Btw, I prefer paper tuning, with a fletched arrow and a bare shaft.

H82bogey · Aug 19, 2016

Punches a perfect hole in paper. It has me scratching my head. I am going to have to find some time this weekend to get it figured out. Going to try walk back tuning and shoot other broad heads to see if it's the bow, broad head or shooter(most likely cause).

Flatrock · Aug 19, 2016

Did you try making micro adjustments to the rest?

H82bogey · Aug 19, 2016

Flatrock said:
Did you try making micro adjustments to the rest?

Not yet.

RustyTackleBox · Aug 19, 2016

i'm hoping that i wont have issues with my arrows... all the parts for the arrows i'm putting together wont be here until the 29th

I'll be shooting black eagle arrows, with 50-60 grains worth of "gold tip fact" weights inside them and 125 grain ramcat broadheads... will put my arrows at 390-400 grains total weight but FOC will be huge... I'm also hoping to have the limbs back for my bow before september

Duckslayer100 · Aug 19, 2016

Return the blades. Buy a pack of 3-blade Muzzy broad heads.

Boom. Dead deer.

Account Deleted · Aug 19, 2016

Could be your shooting form. I'd need pictures.

Sub_Elect · Aug 19, 2016

Try tuning through paper at 10' then 10 yards. It's prob not a very major thing that's throwing your shots.

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How did it shoot with the Exodus?

Sub_Elect · Aug 20, 2016

http://www.wideopenspaces.com/jim-b...ocial&utm_source=Facebook&utm_campaign=Buffer

PrairieGhost · Aug 21, 2016

Broadhead planeing is a tough thing to figure out. I'm not one to give advise on it. Broadheads always plane for my brother, and never do for me. We both paper tune. We have both been bow hunting since 1960. Still can't tell you the difference in how we tune or shoot. In his mid 70's he shoots a crossbow now.

I hear mostly bad things about Thunderheads, still I have killed a deer with one every year since they came out. Only head I ever had lodge in the shoulder of a buck was a G5. It did get me to go to heavier arrows and 125gr Thunderheads. I always shot 70lb (one 84lb Parker for a while) and the G5 was with a 60 lb Mathews and 350 gr arrows. So could have been the setup and not just the broadhead.

I have often wondered about the single bevel. There is no way they don't impart spin to an arrow. Do any of you suspect that there could be spin drift much like a bullet? I know my program "shooter" accounts for spin drift. You have to enter rifling twist and velocity for spin drift. Does the bevel when looked at head on have the same twist as your feathers/vanes, or are you shooting feathers/vanes straight? I think some manufactures sell single bevel in your choice of left or right. Check out Three Rivers Archery. Single bevel blades are nearly always used by traditional bow hunters.

I shoot the Thunderheads with my Mathews, but more traditional heads with my recurve and longbow. Have thought about the single bevel for them.

Sub_Elect · Aug 21, 2016

I have shot em both with good results. I do however fletch my own arrows and I put a really hard twist on my fletchings. Actually, its as hard as I can get on them and still make fletchings contact. I have found that it doesn't really cause any slowing of the arrow or excessive drop at longer distances. My hunting setup is shooting a hunting arrow at 290 to 295 fps according to my chrono. I will post a pic of my arrows.

PrairieGhost · Aug 21, 2016

Yes I fletch everything with a Bitzenburger. Slight offset for my Matthew's and a hard twist for the recurve and longbow. I have been shooting cedar and carbons in the traditional bows. I was splitting Gold tip when I hit my 3D low (metal rod along bottom I guess) but recently switched to Axis. I thought they looked pansy with the insert up inside as they are, but my nephew likes them. Dang they are tough.
So have you shot single bevel with helical fletch? I wonder if that single bevel isn't messing up H82bogey. I have read you have to match your bevel to your fetching. Not sure as long ago they said you had to have right hand twist if your right handed. Then some guy said you had to have left hand twist if your right handed because it was more stable and gave slight lift to the arrow. Now I go into Scheels and 75% of the feathers are right hand twist. I guess I have to buy a right hand clamp for my Bitzenburger.

Prestige Archery · Aug 21, 2016

First things first, paper tuning gets you in the ballpark and is not an indication if your bow is tuned PERFECTLY. The best way to tune a rest for left and rights is walk back tuning. The best way to tune for ups and downs is also doing micro adjustments to your nock hight or rest height and shooting groups to see which setting groups the best.

Second thing is if you are not shooting a good amount of helical on your vanes that could be a cause with the broadheads due to the huge amount of surface area on them. If you have any questions or need help, feel free to PM me.

H82bogey · Aug 22, 2016

UPDATE:

So I double checked everything this weekend. Shot the single bevel, the exodus, and my field tips. Made some mirco adjustments to the arrow rest etc.

The exodus was 2-3" left at 20 yards before I adjusted the rest. This is when I made the micro adjustments to the rest and everything was still left. So I double checked my field points, they were now shooting left. Which makes sense since I moved the rest. So just to be sure I re-paper tuned the bow. I think I finally figured it out. I moved the rest a full two line markers and it is now punching perfect holes. The only think I can think of is either the last time I paper tuned it, I messed up. Even though it was punching perfect holes, I must have either been shooting at the wrong angle to punch clean holes, or my rest moved between then and now.

I think I now have a good baseline to start from and that the bow is in tune. I double checked all cams, timing, strings etc. The bow should be ready to go. I will have to re-sight in this week, but I should be able to get everything back on track. I would have done it yesterday, but I shot in the 3D event at Nishu and ran out of time to sight the hunting bow.

On a positive note, I did shoot my personal best in the even.

DirtyMike · Aug 22, 2016

Anyone have any idea how to get the end of an Allen wrench out of a set screw. Here's to hoping my 30 pin is on.

Sub_Elect · Aug 22, 2016

Bring it by. I'll get it out without Incident. Ive been getting things out (in time) for like 20 years now. You on the other hand don't get things out in time!

DirtyMike · Aug 22, 2016

30 years in a row I did. One slip up.

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Or slip in.

Sub_Elect · Aug 22, 2016

Bahahahaha

H82bogey · Aug 22, 2016

I think DM should have played hockey! Seems like he can get things passed the goalie.

Broadhead tuning

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