100vs200yd Zero

[svnmag]

 

[CatDaddy]

Another question: First focal plane or second?

 

[svnmag]

Good information was lost in the server transition.

 

[Whisky]

I didn't watch the video, nor did I see the responses before they were lost...

But, I like a 100yd zero, and FFP scopes. At 100 yds there is less human and environmental error, thus lending more confidence in my zero. It's also quicker and easier to verify a 100yd zero in the field, should the need arise.
Because of the 100 yd zero, however, you are more likely to have to hold over on most big game shots. For that reason, I much prefer FFP.

I've never tried a MPBR zero, but it's always interested me. I would say for the majority of ND deer hunters, that would suit them well. Another option is to zero at 100yds, and just dial in the correct amount of elevation for whatever yardage you want to be "zeroed" at, or dial in for the MPBR zero....best of both worlds then.

 

[SLE]

I think with most of what people are shooting for rifles, a 200 yard zero isn't that far off of a MPBR zero, depending on your definition of MPBR. I look at it this way; With a 200 yard zero, most rifles need no discernible adjustment at 100 yards when it comes to making a clean shot, you know your going to shoot an inch or two high. At 300 yards, your talking less than 6 inches or so low which most shooters can not only remember but make a slight adjustment and get a good clean consistent shot. Once you get beyond that distance, beyond 300 yards, most won't have an accurate judgement of distance, the amount of hold-over or adjustment grows exponentially, and in order to be consistent, most shooters will need to range and dial anyway. For sure this becomes the case over 400 yards. With a 100 yard zero, by 300 yards your likely over a foot low which allows more room for error in hold over and you definitely need to make an adjustment to get a good clean shot.At-least the way I look at it, based on the guns in my cabinet, most of mine zeroed at 200 yds are essentially a point and shoot out to 300 yards when talking about taking down deer size or larger game. much beyond that, I'm going to be using the range finder and tactical turret.

So this brings me to the second part of FFP or SFP? I like my reticle to stay the same size and because I don't feel the accuracy is there doing hold overs beyond 400 yards, and I will be using the dialable turret of my scope at that point to hone in on my target, SFP is fine for me. The down side of this is it forces you to use your turret for windage also unless your at max magnification and or if you can remember what fraction of magnification you are set at. To me, this becomes more a discussion of are you a range and dial, or range and hold-over person.

 

[SDMF]

Regarding SFP, assuming max power is the values you have for subtensions, values then double @ 50% of max power. That can help a person w/Windage holds vs.dialing. For example, Leupold’s “Windplex” is 1MOA hashes @ max power. If one cuts power by 50%, they become 2MOA hashes.

 

[Whisky]

Regarding SFP, assuming max power is the values you have for subtensions, values then double @ 50% of max power. That can help a person w/Windage holds vs.dialing. For example, Leupold’s “Windplex” is 1MOA hashes @ max power. If one cuts power by 50%, they become 2MOA hashes.

As simple as that sounds, it's sometimes hard to remember under the heat of the moment, as evidenced by the elk I once spined. Been using FFP ever since.

 

[SLE]

Regarding SFP, assuming max power is the values you have for subtensions, values then double @ 50% of max power. That can help a person w/Windage holds vs.dialing. For example, Leupold’s “Windplex” is 1MOA hashes @ max power. If one cuts power by 50%, they become 2MOA hashes.

This is exactly what I was trying to say with knowing what % magnification your set at and being able to do the quick math in your head.

 

[svnmag]

I didn't watch the video, nor did I see the responses before they were lost...

But, I like a 100yd zero, and FFP scopes. At 100 yds there is less human and environmental error, thus lending more confidence in my zero. It's also quicker and easier to verify a 100yd zero in the field, should the need arise.
Because of the 100 yd zero, however, you are more likely to have to hold over on most big game shots. For that reason, I much prefer FFP. I've never tried a MPBR zero, but it's always interested me. I would say for the majority of ND deer hunters, that would suit them well. Another option is to zero at 100yds, and just dial in the correct amount of elevation for whatever yardage you want to be "zeroed" at, or dial in for the MPBR zero....best of both worlds then.

Pard's WT in WY last year was the result of a "combo". I'm a PBZ retard with a 7 zeroed 3in high at 100. I'm confident under perfect conditions to hit an 8in circle (maybe 10) to 400 and will NOT hold above the backline. Pard's .308 was zeroed 1 1/2 high at 100 and grouped about 4in low at 300 with the first hold-over stadia. He declared 300 his limit and killed his buck 250/275ish with the main crosshair shading high.

Also: If a focal plane bit my sack I couldn't tell the honky motherfuckn' poleeces if it was 1st or 2nd.

That is all.

 

[SupressYourself]

Also: If a focal plane bit my sack I couldn't tell the honky motherfuckn' poleeces if it was 1st or 2nd.
That is all.

;:;rofl This is why we love you.

 

[SDMF]

As simple as that sounds, it's sometimes hard to remember under the heat of the moment, as evidenced by the elk I once spined. Been using FFP ever since.

I don't disagree, I suspect I work harder than I have to by not making the switch to FFP and MIL. I'm a SFP/MOA Luddite.

 

[Jiffy]

You know what's worse?

Ziess turrets that turn the WRONG way.

 

[SDMF]

You know what's worse?

Ziess turrets that turn the WRONG way.

Zeiss, Swaro, Leica, S&B, probably some others, although, I do believe that Zeiss and Leica have swapped that on their turrets recently, now only their variable power ring is backwards.

 

[Zogman]

I really liked the 100yd and 200yd chart that were posted before the crash! Please repost if possible. THX.

 

[Zogman]

Anyone who posted the chart help an old guy out

 

[svnmag]

I think with most of what people are shooting for rifles, a 200 yard zero isn't that far off of a MPBR zero, depending on your definition of MPBR. I look at it this way; With a 200 yard zero, most rifles need no discernible adjustment at 100 yards when it comes to making a clean shot, you know your going to shoot an inch or two high. At 300 yards, your talking less than 6 inches or so low which most shooters can not only remember but make a slight adjustment and get a good clean consistent shot. Once you get beyond that distance, beyond 300 yards, most won't have an accurate judgement of distance, the amount of hold-over or adjustment grows exponentially, and in order to be consistent, most shooters will need to range and dial anyway. For sure this becomes the case over 400 yards. With a 100 yard zero, by 300 yards your likely over a foot low which allows more room for error in hold over and you definitely need to make an adjustment to get a good clean shot.At-least the way I look at it, based on the guns in my cabinet, most of mine zeroed at 200 yds are essentially a point and shoot out to 300 yards when talking about taking down deer size or larger game. much beyond that, I'm going to be using the range finder and tactical turret.

So this brings me to the second part of FFP or SFP? I like my reticle to stay the same size and because I don't feel the accuracy is there doing hold overs beyond 400 yards, and I will be using the dialable turret of my scope at that point to hone in on my target, SFP is fine for me. The down side of this is it forces you to use your turret for windage also unless your at max magnification and or if you can remember what fraction of magnification you are set at. To me, this becomes more a discussion of are you a range and dial, or range and hold-over person.

Damn fine post. Thanks.

 

[espringers]

i am a 200 yard zero on all of my rifles except my .243. but, i will only sight in with no or very little (if any wind). i limit myself to shots at game to under 400 and frankly don't feel very comfortable over 350. its really a mental thing tbh though. i just need to spend more time shooting at 400+ cause i am just fine at it when i do. like most who don't do it enough, wind reading and dialing is a challenge.

 

[svnmag]

Is this vid good information?

 

[svnmag]

The above vid confirms for me 400yds is THE edge for my ethical game shooting under perfect conditions and I've absorbed much superfluous recoil and noise. FPE is another discussion. Horsager/Jiffy snort in derision and my left ear screams with field bugs through the night: