Shock collar

[Wags2.0]

I had a garmin delta XC. It worked pretty good for the money I thought. It got lost for reasons I won’t get in to. Bitches be crazy, yo. Want something that’s best bang for my buck but also not a pos.

 

[Bed Wetter]

I heard good things recently about the garmin delta XC.

 

[DirtyMike]

sportdog at your local menards.

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Actually, I'll send you my sportdog. It comes attached to a special needs vizsla.

 

[Wags2.0]

sportdog at your local menards.

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Actually, I'll send you my sportdog. It comes attached to a special needs vizsla.

Hmm that sounds tempting but one special needs animal is enough for me

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I heard good things recently about the garmin delta XC.

Wow. So insightful

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[Duckslayer100]

I can't say bad things about Garmin Products. I preferred Tri-Tronics pre-Garmin buyout, but they seemed to have kept most of the quality intact since then.

What are you using it for? Just basic obedience? Hunting? Both?

Reason I ask is you can probably buy a sub-$300 e-collar from any of the major brands and be just fine. But if you're looking at this "lost collar" incident as a means to upgrade, I'd be getting this bad boy: https://www.gundogsupply.com/garmin-pro-550-plus.html

I run a TT Pro series collar system on two dogs, and have a SportDOG Tek 2.0 to track them. It works for my needs, but is cumbersome.

That collar up yonder, the Pro 550 Plus, is my next collar. A simple tracking function combined with a tried-and-true correction remote all in one. I really only need to know where my dogs are in the general sense, and the GPS map on my Tek 2.0 tends to be unnecessary. But if a dog is locked up in cover, I just want to know their direction and how far so I can work that way. It would be perfect.

 

[Wags2.0]

I can't say bad things about Garmin Products. I preferred Tri-Tronics pre-Garmin buyout, but they seemed to have kept most of the quality intact since then.

What are you using it for? Just basic obedience? Hunting? Both?

Reason I ask is you can probably buy a sub-$300 e-collar from any of the major brands and be just fine. But if you're looking at this "lost collar" incident as a means to upgrade, I'd be getting this bad boy: https://www.gundogsupply.com/garmin-pro-550-plus.html

I run a TT Pro series collar system on two dogs, and have a SportDOG Tek 2.0 to track them. It works for my needs, but is cumbersome.

That collar up yonder, the Pro 550 Plus, is my next collar. A simple tracking function combined with a tried-and-true correction remote all in one. I really only need to know where my dogs are in the general sense, and the GPS map on my Tek 2.0 tends to be unnecessary. But if a dog is locked up in cover, I just want to know their direction and how far so I can work that way. It would be perfect.

Upland hunting and obedience. I don’t waterfowl hunt much anymore unfortunately. That thing looks badass tho

 

[shorthairman]

I use the Tri-Tronics/Garmin Field 70 and have been happy with that and wouldn't be afraid to recommend it.

I'm not worried about GPS locations of my dogs most of the time though, so that is not a function I needed. Like DSlayer said though, it depends on what you want to do with the collar. A guy with coon dogs would want GPS, a guy like me that upland hunts and most of the time the cover is not too tall that I can't see the dogs, doesn't really need GPS.

Just saw your last post after I posted. I think you would be happy with Tri-Tronics for obedience and upland. Mine also has a beep function which I like because my dogs have figured out that if they hear the beep they better do what they are supposed to because they aren't going like what happens next...Most of the time all I have to do is beep them.

 

[Duckslayer100]

I use the Tri-Tronics/Garmin Field 70 and have been happy with that and wouldn't be afraid to recommend it.

I'm not worried about GPS locations of my dogs most of the time though, so that is not a function I needed. Like DSlayer said though, it depends on what you want to do with the collar. A guy with coon dogs would want GPS, a guy like me that upland hunts and most of the time the cover is not too tall that I can't see the dogs, doesn't really need GPS.

Just saw your last post after I posted. I think you would be happy with Tri-Tronics for obedience and upland. Mine also has a beep function which I like because my dogs have figured out that if they hear the beep they better do what they are supposed to because they aren't going like what happens next...Most of the time all I have to do is beep them.

West river versus east river

Cover I hunt is seldom below a dog's tail. It's 90 percent cattails. Running pointers in that stuff on tight-sitting roosters makes some form of GPS a godsend.

Plus I feel like tracking collars are kind of like condoms: I'd rather have one and not need it, than need one and not have it. I can't count the number of times just sitting around somewhere and went "where the heck is my dog?" Even if they don't wander far, it's nice peace of mind.

 

[wslayer]

I have the regular Pro 550 collar. Is very nice. Has nite lite and bark control if needed. The additional GPS would be nice. From gundog supply.

 

[nxtgeneration]

I have the regular Pro 550 collar. Is very nice. Has nite lite and bark control if needed. The additional GPS would be nice. From gundog supply.

I've got a Pro 550 as well and would buy again if needed. Actually, I've bought the remote twice now. If you're wondering, the remote costs damn near as much as the whole package....

The bark feature is nice to have as well when your dog thinks the mail man is the devil.

https://www.outdoordogsupply.com/pr...Qk4rX-mWXDXMF8FFpVLWN8PsMEYoN-fRoCLGcQAvD_BwE

 

[Rut2much]

I heard good things recently about the garmin delta XC.

This made me pee a little bit

 

[gr8outdoors]

Not sure what brand it is, but my brother has the under ground fence n collars on the dogs for his yard. One time his wife went to get the mail and one of her lil ankle biters ran after her and never stopped for the fence. Needless to say, that lil shit yelped like crazy, but made it to mommy. So on the way back to the house, she picks the dog up and yup she did it, crossed the line with dog in her arms. Brother said she yelped louder than the dog and the mail went flying!

 

[SLE]

Dogta 2500t&b has worked flawlessly for me. I ran it’s predecessor, the 2000 T&B for 12 seasons before retiring it. It has a 0-100 retrostat for levels of correction, two correction modes, three beeper/locator modes and two different tones for the beeper. When working tight tall cover like cattails with a pointing dog I find the beeper is more useful and easier to use than GPS.

 

[pluggin]

Not sure what brand it is, but my brother has the under ground fence n collars on the dogs for his yard. One time his wife went to get the mail and one of her lil ankle biters ran after her and never stopped for the fence. Needless to say, that lil shit yelped like crazy, but made it to mommy. So on the way back to the house, she picks the dog up and yup she did it, crossed the line with dog in her arms. Brother said she yelped louder than the dog and the mail went flying!

Don’t want to hijack this thread but does anyone have any opinions on different types of underground fences. I am sure this has been discussed before but just looking for a couple experiences of some brands. Thanks

 

[Allen]

If you play in the cattails, get a GPS collar. I used to always worry about losing my dog to the point I'd not enjoy the hunt. Now I run a Garmin Alpha and I can ignore him for a few minutes if I need to without being worried that he's out of earshot. Not cheap though, but still a lot less than a new dog.

 

[SLE]

I have a sportdog underground fence enclosing 6 acres and it works excellent. Just make sure you throw the wire that comes in the kit in the trash and order some 12Ga direct bury tracer wire. That'll save you a bunch of headache.

Also, I still maintain I'd take a good beeper collar over a GPS unit for hunting cattails. No fumbling around to look at the screen, a quick tap of the button and you get an audible location of the hound, when your within 5-10 ft and still can see the dog because he's buried in, the gps unit don't show the separation while the beeper continues you to be able to pin point location. now, if you have a big runner that doesn't check back, or might chase a deer over a hill, or has a tendency to get out of sight and hearing distance, then by all means get a GPS collar; but at that point, you probably have some basic obedience and training issues that need to be handled first and foremost.

 

[PAIN]

Not to get off topic, but has anyone had issues with their dog not responding to the shock? Yes, I tested on myself and it works. The dog is a lab pup, so it has thick fur, but I do have the long prongs and it cinched up tight. Thoughts?

 

[49994]

I agree with everything SLE has said above. I have ran my dogtra for 8seasons with no issues. I trained my dog to work back to me when ranging by hitting the locate button. He won't leave the trail of a bird when I hit the locate either. The locate button works great in tall cover. I won't be buying anything different when this one dies.

 

[SLE]

PAIN, If your not getting any response, typically the collar is not tight enough, the prongs are too short, or the stimulation level needs to be turned up. However, with that said, it is a correction tool to go along with obedience training. If the dog doesn't understand why he/she is being shocked, then the correction is lost and only confusing to the dog as they do not know what they've done wrong. Of course some are strong headed and continue on even with a significant correction, while others will cower with so much as a raised voice. I have had both. my last brittany had big legs and ran like a pointer, he was head strong and an unstoppable machine in the field. the shock collar worked well to "Remind" him that i was the alpha in his pack. usually only took once a weekend to remind him. later in years when his hearing went, I would turn it way down to where he could hardly feel it and I simply used it to turn his direction. My current Brittany is really soft. I put the collar on him to early and after just one time, I about wrecked him. took him weeks to leave my feet without the collar around his neck. now days, it takes very little to get him to slow down or listen. the collar has really become a location tool more than anything. food for thought.

 

[Duckslayer100]

PAIN, If your not getting any response, typically the collar is not tight enough, the prongs are too short, or the stimulation level needs to be turned up. However, with that said, it is a correction tool to go along with obedience training. If the dog doesn't understand why he/she is being shocked, then the correction is lost and only confusing to the dog as they do not know what they've done wrong. Of course some are strong headed and continue on even with a significant correction, while others will cower with so much as a raised voice. I have had both. my last brittany had big legs and ran like a pointer, he was head strong and an unstoppable machine in the field. the shock collar worked well to "Remind" him that i was the alpha in his pack. usually only took once a weekend to remind him. later in years when his hearing went, I would turn it way down to where he could hardly feel it and I simply used it to turn his direction. My current Brittany is really soft. I put the collar on him to early and after just one time, I about wrecked him. took him weeks to leave my feet without the collar around his neck. now days, it takes very little to get him to slow down or listen. the collar has really become a location tool more than anything. food for thought.

BINGO!

I've heard often from guys saying "I need it cranked to the max or my dog won't do anything." I've only seen a few dogs that truly needed that level, but it's never all the time. Typically it's to break through some barrier or plateau in training, and then the level can be reduced.

Remember, with remote trainers, you're signaling the dog to either do or not do something.

Heel training, for instance. When the dog is walking next to you at heel, nothing happens. Then the dog starts to pull away. The basics of this with heeling is to command "heel" and then give a sharp tug on their collar (with a pinch collar or, what I prefer, a Delmar Smith Wonder Lead) to get the dog back by you. Doing this repeatedly helps the dog associate "heel" with the desired interaction.

Fast forward a bit and you can get rid of the Wonder Lead of pinch collar and affix the remote trainer. Instead of a sharp tug, you say "heel" and give stimulation. As soon as the dog is next to you at heel, the stimulation stops. It's important this level as at the LOWEST POSSIBLE SETTING to get a response. You don't ever want to "fry" your dog. That's counterproductive, especially early in the process.

A dog that is set with the basic cause/effect obedience lessons will figure out quickly that THEY are the ones that can turn the pressure on or off. The pressure goes ON when they're doing something they're not supposed to. You commanded "heel" and the dog goes beyond the set boundaries of what you constitute heel. Pressure is applied, and the dog quickly resumes proper heel. The pressure turns off.

For my boys, 3 is plenty. I've had it higher on very brief and specific occasions. Trash breaking is a good one. If you don't want your dog sniffing gopher holes or chasing deer, for instance, I'll quickly max the collar and as soon as the dog sniffs a gopher hole (while hunting) or takes off at some deer, instant pressure. No verbal command or cue, just the stimulation. The dog will associate that pressure with the gophers or deer, and not you. One or two interactions like that and the dogs will quickly ignore undesirable critters (and out west, this is a great way to "snake break" your dogs in a controlled setting).