Dog/Lab Questions

Bauer

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Fortunately I had a wise man once tell me to be forceful with dogs so I think that is why I have gotten along with so much thus far. He has a soft mouth (as long as its not the ball), and knows the commands to "leave it" in all situations (except the ball when he wants to keep it). He knows what his gums feel like mashed against his teeth as I go over the muzzle to pry the ball away. I am just trying to find some other solution to get him to realize we are NOT playing and its NOT cool as it doesn't register in the right part of the space between his ears when we try anything different.

He really is quite advanced as far as most of the things brought up so far and I feel fortunate for as much as I disliked dogs to have one that is as smart and well behaved as he is. I have had several dog owners comment on how they wish theirs were half as well behaved. If it is just these 3 things getting on MY nerves when I was adamant against a dog to begin with, I am excited for his future. I just have to break this mode he is in right now.

I think I am going to take away the ball for some time here, month or so, start with the check cord and one of his duck dummies, something that isn't such a crazy stimuli to him. Get him back on track that way and then re-introduce the ball after he is broken from this mentality.
I understand the use of the check cord out front for recall and distance training but what do I do for a correction if he is within inches/feet of me? Shorten way up and pull him to where I desire?

Just a few little things I did as recommendations from here helped last night so you have me headed in the right direction!

Thank you all.
 


bigv

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Lots of issues. Mostly he is young and goofy and two-as others mentioned, he is testing you a bit. Check cord will work to bring him in. Get rid of the tennis ball. Use bumpers. You need to be firm with him. Don't pussy foot around with him. If not giving up ball or bumper wrap hand across top of muzzle with fingers squeezing jaw and gums into teeth. It will hurt. As he squirms a bit hold on tight and firmly say "drop" several times. Be firm..he'll catch on quick. He doesn't come in the garage because he doesn't want to. Force Fetching would solve 90% of these issues. FF isn't about teaching a dog to fetch it's about teaching him to do as he is told. Using a collar can ruin a dog if not used properly. Only use as commands are given and not followed. Never shock a dog on a retrieve. He'll learn to NOT retrieve. Shock collars should be used for obedience. I've trained dogs for years. If you have more specific questions pm me.
 

gonefshn

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Wildrose Kennels has quite a few resources and some great training dvd's. They do a great job of explaining what causes many of those bad behavior issues. Often times when you're training your dog it's the little things you let them get away with or don't instill in them early that cause those things. That's what I like best about their training items. They explain why they do every little detail. Their main theme is: Every dog is looking for a leader. If you're not the leader they will be. And they will test you every single day.
 

remm

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Dam labs are like kids. Sometimes need a quick knuckle to the top of the head to remember who's in charge.
 

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