Stock.refinish?



eyexer

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I would take some fine steel wool after it and see how it does. If it cleans it up good and appears to have taken the remaining varnish off then you could simply use a finishing oil of some kind of stain with something really close to existing color and then polyurethane
 

TWN

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I did a '94 some years ago. Completely stripped the wood then sprayed on clear poly. Sand off the poly, repeat. Probably had 75 coats by the time all the little divots in the wood were filled and the poly went on glass smooth. I have no idea what brand of spray I used but ended up with a really nice mat finish. Did this for a friend of mine, couple weeks later someone stole the rifle out of his pickup! Lots of hours but it was really nice when I was finished. TW
 


Allen

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Tru Oil is good, and if I remember correctly it's just another variation on good old fashioned tongue oil, which is my preferred.

I did a new stock a couple years ago for my 25-06 and it turned out really well using Tru Oil. The key here is prep, sand the stock well to remove scratches, dings can be removed after sanding by putting a wet towel over it and using an iron to heat it up. Take baby steps and it'll be fine. Then sand again, and once you are down to 800-1,000 grit, you should be ready to apply the Tru Oil. After a coat, lightly sand again with 1,000 grit, repeat as necessary until you get to the desired finish. By the time you get to coat 4 or 5, you should be done. Granted, just to try it, I once did a set of chairs with about 20 coats before I called it quits. At that point it's been quite a while since the wood was actually taking any oil and all you are doing is perfecting the finish.

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note: tru oil contains linseed oil as its base.
 
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1lessdog

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Once you get the stock sanded to your liking. Get the stock wet, its call whiskering the wood. After it dry's take 4 0000 steel wool and rub it smooth. repeat that process 4 or 5 times. Then I would use tru oil. I would heat it up and it went on so smooth. I would let the stock hang in a cardboard box with a light bulb. When dry put another finish on. After 3 or 4 coats rub smooth with 4 0000 steel wool and repeat the process. It takes about 10 coats. You will have a very nice looking finish. If to shiny put some tru oil on some 4 0000 steel wool and rub it to take the shine off to a satin
 

Timbuk-2

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I use poly urethane cut about 50/50 with mineral spirits to create a base. Apply and let dry, lightly sand or rub with steel wool until all the pores are filled and you have a glass smooth finish. This will take several coats but it give a really hard, durable base. Then finish with truoil or truoil/ danish oil mix (about 50/50).

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TO CONTINUE
Hand rub and apply as many coats as needed until you get the finish you want. I cover any checkering with tape so it doesn't get filled.
 

gonefshn

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Go with the Tru-oil. I think the oiled finishes look so much nicer. Like the Allen said, use lots of coats. You'll love the final product.
 


Allen

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Ok, thanks everyone..sounds like ill try the tru oil. I found a few videos on you tube that seem to explain the whole process.

Now that we are done with the wood refinishing stuff, are you sure you want to do it?

Reason I ask is because I watch a LOT of Pawn Stars and other shows that would suggest if you are in the possession of a firearm that may have significant value, YOU WILL KILL THE VALUE if you mess with the original finish, etc.
 

BX2

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I'm not sure how old but the wood is pretty ugly. Its a 22 magnum I want to redo for my son. The metal looks decent but it kind of looks like it spent its whole life bouncing in a window rack of a pickup. I doubt I could make it worse .

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How do you find out the year?

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Found it .pretty sure its 1976

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16061964842294200320940566768424.jpg
 

snow

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BX2 ,if that baby could talk....bet she would have a bunch of good stories,get her cleaned up she deserves better,bet she is fun to shoot.
 

Allen

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Damn! I can see why you want to refinish it.

One trick you will want to use since this will most likely be a hand rubbed finish is to attach a string to the pieces of the stock so it can hang while drying.
 


1lessdog

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Put it in a long cardboard box with a light bulb to put heat in the box to speed up the drying process.

Leave the butt plate on when sanding so not to have a lip if you take to much off. And be careful where the wood meets up with the receiver and not round off the corners.
 
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BX2

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Ok ,I thought I'd update this. I had my son helping me so at least half of the work is done by a 12 year old.
We started sanding with 180 da paper. I wouldn't start this coarse again, I'd probably start about 320 grit. We then wet sanded with 600 and again with 1000. We ran small rope through the pieces so we could hang them to dry. We put a coat on and let hang for 24 hours to dry. After 2 coats we lightly sanded with 000 steel wool. 2 more coats and steel wool again. 2 more coats.and called it good. I have to be honest here. I never expected It to look this good. I thought the wood was a little too rough and had what looks like water damage and sun bleaching on the wood.it turned out really nice, the pictures dont do it justice.it took a little time but wasnt bad at all. The tru oil i found at schools for 8 bucks and could probably do 2 more guns with how much is left. Thanks everyone.

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It should say scheels instead of schools. I'm not sure how to edit

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20201213_220911.jpg this is how it looked after sanding
 

1lessdog

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Tru oil is real easy to work with and is one of the easiest finishes to put on a stock.

Looks good
 


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