Shelter Belts



db-2

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Planted 100 xmas trees in 90 minutes by hand last week on one of my plots. db
 

johnr

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I put an apple tree in my back yard last summer, the little feller has about 50 blooms on it right now..

That is all
 

NDSportsman

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I planted 70 trees this spring. Along with the hundreds I've planted over the years they will hopefully be enjoyed by wildlife and people for many years into the future..........or tore up and plowed under by the neighbor after I'm dead and gone I suppose lol
 

lunkerslayer

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Ahhhh I'm getting the warm and fuzzies reading this thread way to go guys I do believe there are more of you in North Dakota who appreciate the little things that help keep viable habitat around to help sustain wildlife for future generations. :;:thumbsup
 


Sluggo

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I’m set to inherit a quarter of land in south central ND. It doesn’t have any trees on it but has a large slough in one corner. I wouldn’t mind increasing the habitat but I really don’t know where to start. Any suggestions?
 

Davey Crockett

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I’m set to inherit a quarter of land in south central ND. It doesn’t have any trees on it but has a large slough in one corner. I wouldn’t mind increasing the habitat but I really don’t know where to start. Any suggestions?


How many acres would you guess the slough is and has it been drained ? NRCS has always been good to visit with in my area and they will give advice on a conservation plan.

- - - Updated - - -

Depends on the lay of the land and watershed size but I put ditch plugs in a couple sloughs and they have since raised a lot of wildlife.
 

Allen

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Willows and cottonwoods/poplars would do well in most slough settings, so long as they aren't routinely in water itself for more than a couple weeks out of the year.
 

Sluggo

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I just mentioned the slough to indicate it has some water habitat. I can plant trees anywhere I would want, near the slough or in dry ground away from it. Davey, I’m not a real good judge of acres, sorry. It’s decent sized and looks like it’s been there many years. Pic of the quarter below:

4580FD70-8664-4305-8312-398D20C8914E.jpg
 
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Fordboy

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Nrcs is where I would start. They should be able to tell you what trees will do well in the soils you have. I believe pheasants forever and NDGF have cost share programs for pollinators or cover plots.
 

KDM

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I’m set to inherit a quarter of land in south central ND. It doesn’t have any trees on it but has a large slough in one corner. I wouldn’t mind increasing the habitat but I really don’t know where to start. Any suggestions?

Just some random thoughts from planting trees and bushes for 20 years......

1. Avoid the so called "free" govt. money programs. One swipe of the pen by that same govt. and your life and land can change dramatically. The CRP program is a prime example.
2. Realize that any trees you plant won't necessarily be for you to enjoy. It takes 15 to 20 years to get a good stand of trees.
3. Determine EXACTLY what you want to do with the land and then dig into the details if it can actually be done.
4. Woody cover doesn't necessarily mean trees. Bushes like caragana, dogwood, and junipers can make some real good cover.
5. If you actually start to plant stuff, you need to protect it somehow. Wire rings, fences, etc. Deer are MURDER on growing woody plants. Sometimes they are their own worst enemy.
6. I would set up a pump from the slough to water whatever you intend to plant. Getting woody plants past the first 5 years seems to be the real problem. If the deer don't rub them, eat them, or top them and the rodents don't strip the bark off them, you might just get them to grow.
7. Establishing habitat IS NOT a fire and forget proposition. It takes time, effort, dedication, and money. If you aren't willing to visit the site at least once a week or every couple weeks to water, work on weeding, (grass will crowd and kill a small tree) fix fences, take care of pocket gophers or other pests that kill your plants, I would question the initial outlay of time and money just to buy the plants and put them in the ground.
8. Then there is WINTER....... I've still lose 4 inch diameter fruit trees to winter kill. Just lost a 7 year old plum tree in the yard to winter kill and it was an easy winter. Consider the hardiness of the plant you start with. They will probably need to be TOUGH if you plant them in the wide open like you want.

Even though I've probably given you some "wet blankets", I don't mean to rain on your parade. I just wanted to jog you brain a bit before you charge in. I don't want you to get disappointed if something doesn't work out like you plan. Have Fun!! Building habitat is a BLAST when you get to see how many critters use what you made.
 

Migrator Man

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I just mentioned the slough to indicate it has some water habitat. I can plant trees anywhere I would want, near the slough or in dry ground away from it. Davey, I’m not a real good judge of acres, sorry. It’s decent sized and looks like it’s been there many years. Pic of the quarter below:

auto yes.jpg
Plant some tall grass and you would have your own pheasant sanctuary! Also some rows of evergreens for year round shelter
 

Davey Crockett

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It all depends on how much time and money you want to spend and what you want for an end result.

I'm not sure why CRP gets a bad rap , I guess people see a poorly thought out conservation plan and then blame the Gov?? This is my experience with CRP. I've had two contracts one 10 and one 12 year and they were wildlife making machines. The important thing is I went with CREP if it's still called that, or a contract where you hay the land every other year after Aug 1st. It keeps the land cleaned up and you will have a big ol mess if you don't hay it every other year, It keeps weeds and trees from growing.

If you have any livestock producers around the area they will knock down the door to get a chance to hay it. Another important thing was food plots, I had two 3 acre food plots on 2 quarters and that was just barely enough, I usually planted barley or sometimes just a mixture of small grain seeds. I personally liked swathing it in the fall and then left it in windrows. The most important thing you already have and that's water. For me it was easy because I already had small farm machinery for food plots. Just throwing that out there because CRP was a perfect option for me at the time. CRP isn't one size fits all for everyone but I wanted full control of the land on my terms and that's exactly what I got. You are able to negotiate a contract to fit your needs and wants , you just have to do it upfront and I'm pretty sure they will let you plant as many trees as you want. Pollinator crops are the new thing and last I looked they added a bunch of points into the ranking criteria .

Bad thing about CRP is that people bitch about it mostly I think because they see it as a "free handout" that and those who don't understand agriculture will piss and moan because you get to hay it every other year, Little do they know it's the best solution for everyone.

That said I now rent out the farmland , I am lucky to have a good renter but there isn't a kernel of grain left for wildlife during the winter . I guess every rose has it's thorn.
 


riverview

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could a guy even get shelter belts to grow in the rrv with all the roundup used now days?
 

risingsun

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I planted some wood last night, but Shirley wasn't in a field. :;:cheers
 

tikkalover

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Roundup is ideally made to have a direct effect on plants, and it therefore, has little effect on the soil. In the event that it gets to the soil, it is broken down over time into carbon dioxide and nitrogen. However, often times, a good percentage of it remains intact, but it gets biologically bound to the soil. This binding makes it inaccessible to plants, and it, therefore, cannot be absorbed via the plants’ roots. Additionally, it does no harm to seeds that may already be existing in the soils, and they will germinate in spite of the chemical.

Additionally, Roundup acts as a post emergent herbicide, an indication that it would have no effect on emergent weeds days after it has been in the soil. As earlier mentioned, it can take 2 to 200 days for it to clear from the soil, and this period is largely dependent on the quantity of chemical in the soil, and its strength. Additionally, highly organic soils bear the capacity to absorb, break it down and bind it than less organic soils. On top of this, factors such as temperature, humidity and light intensity also affect the rate at which Roundup in the soil is broken down.

In case this chemical gets inadvertently sprayed on good crop or grass on your lawn, proceed to wash it thoroughly with clean water. Roundup (glyphosate) is highly soluble in water and it will be washed away and not damage your good plants. In this regard, avoid spraying it on your weeds during the rainy season. It could easily get washed away by rain water and have no effect on the weeds.


So, how long should you wait to plant new seeds after applying Roundup?

The waiting time between spraying Roundup and planting new seeds is determined by the plants you intend to grow. In the case of shrubs, trees and ornamental flowers, it is perfectly safe to plant them the very next day. If you want to plant edible crops and grass species, you should wait a minimum of three days before planting.
 

MULEDEER

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Generally round up is not that hard on trees. Dicamba and some wheat herbicides are more harmful to trees with leaves. South Central by chance McIntosh County? We have a very active NRCS they are good to work with.
 

riverview

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Roundup is ideally made to have a direct effect on plants, and it therefore, has little effect on the soil. In the event that it gets to the soil, it is broken down over time into carbon dioxide and nitrogen. However, often times, a good percentage of it remains intact, but it gets biologically bound to the soil. This binding makes it inaccessible to plants, and it, therefore, cannot be absorbed via the plants’ roots. Additionally, it does no harm to seeds that may already be existing in the soils, and they will germinate in spite of the chemica

Additionally, Roundup acts as a post emergent herbicide, an indication that it would have no effect on emergent weeds days after it has been in the soil. As earlier mentioned, it can take 2 to 200 days for it to clear from the soil, and this period is largely dependent on the quantity of chemical in the soil, and its strength. Additionally, highly organic soils bear the capacity to absorb, break it down and bind it than less organic soils. On top of this, factors such as temperature, humidity and light intensity also affect the rate at which Roundup in the soil is broken down.

In case this chemical gets inadvertently sprayed on good crop or grass on your lawn, proceed to wash it thoroughly with clean water. Roundup (glyphosate) is highly soluble in water and it will be washed away and not damage your good plants. In this regard, avoid spraying it on your weeds during the rainy season. It could easily get washed away by rain water and have no effect on the weeds.


So, how long should you wait to plant new seeds after applying Roundup?

The waiting time between spraying Roundup and planting new seeds is determined by the plants you intend to grow. In the case of shrubs, trees and ornamental flowers, it is perfectly safe to plant them the very next day. If you want to plant edible crops and grass species, you should wait a minimum of three days before planting.
I was thinking more of them getting sprayed after they are planted, I know our garden gets hit just about every year when roundup ready crops are planted close to our yard.
 


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