DeWalt K-Drill - 3 Season Review

Slappy

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Wrapping up the 3rd season with a DeWalt 996B turning a 7.5" K-Drill through at least 500 holes/season. It just let me down for the first time, but I attribute that to not paying attention to heat build up while drilling multiple holes through close to 3ft of ice.

A plastic centering plate nests with the plastic fan piece fixed to the stator shaft, and these got hot enough to melt and weld themselves together when the drill stopped turning. I was able to break the weld without breaking anything else and get it running again. I was pleasantly surprised to see how good the internals looked after all the use it's seen. Motor and gears all looked like new. Not abused but definitely run hard.

I was curious how long the drill would last so thought I would share for one data point. I will keep using this one but also picked up a 999 for a backup.

Keeping batteries comfortable on the ice is key to getting all the available power. Keep the batteries in a cooler and add a hand warmer to keep them from getting cold. Keep the battery in an inside coat pocket or the cooler when not using. Switch batteries if drilling many holes in a row to avoid overheating the batteries.

Remove the K-Drill and hit the drill chuck with some WD-40 and spin all the way in and out once or twice a season to keep the chuck from binding.

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riverview

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k drill is a good bit, I like a drill for early ice but once the ice gets thick i like the 24v strikemaster
 

Hookin8easy

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After 16” of ice I pop mine onto my strikemaster solo gas head, bolts right up, that baby cuts, use about a shot glass of gas for 20 holes in thick ice with the 8.5 kdrill. Did that after sending up smoke signals out of my drill.
 

catchindeers

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After 16” of ice I pop mine onto my strikemaster solo gas head, bolts right up, that baby cuts, use about a shot glass of gas for 20 holes in thick ice with the 8.5 kdrill. Did that after sending up smoke signals out of my drill.


This is exactly what I do. Use the drill until it gets around 20 inches then switch to the power head with extension via 1 bolt. On my 5th season, so far and works great. Have not had any issues with my Fuel drill or strikemaster power head.
 

Vollmers

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I run the 996 on an 8.5" kdrill. This year I upgraded to the 9AH flex volt battery. Best decision I ever made.
 


MarbleEyez

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What is everyone using for a drill head these days on their k-Drills? I've got several buddies that have the k-drill's and use them during early ice, but they say they'll torch a drill every other season with them. I bought a 8.5" and was debating getting one of the Milwaukee mud-mixers, but I've got all dewalt batteries/tools!
 

Bfishn

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I feel like the k-drills have kind of fallen out of favor because of this issue. The blade style is the least efficient and just makes them the slowest and hardest on drills.
 

snow2

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And my 25 yr old SM takes a licken and keeps on tickin....gotta remember to switch out lazer blades for chipper in western states.in this time period only one carb tuneup,one recoil, 1000's of holes,before all the hi-tech electronics, mapping gps data we had to drill 50,60+ holes in one after noon to keep on fish and to locate.

On the fence about upgrading to a SM 20volt,slow'en down in my old age,besides local honey holes always produce, not sold on these drills to auger,we need torq for ice 20"+ or gotta stop and scoop cuttings every so often.

We had the same issue 5 yrs ago on lake Michigan 42"s of solid clear ice ole honda 4 stroke would start to bog down around 20" mark had to stop,clear,continue makes searching a pain.
 
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guywhofishes

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I feel like the k-drills have kind of fallen out of favor because of this issue. The blade style is the least efficient and just makes them the slowest and hardest on drills.
I think it’s a worthwhile trade off myself. Not worrying about how the drill is going to cut has been a nice simplifier for me (I have 4” and 6” k-drills). Hitting sand/gravel dropped of vehicles sucks so bad with the the strikemaster shavers of old. (I still have the Honda 4 stroke 8”)

I find myself drilling scouting holes w 4” most days - then if it seems worthwhile I pop another 4” right next to the other and my vexilar puck sits in that hole

works for me

if I’m in a potential big fish situation I’ll worry about sizing up, but somehow if a guy’s used to it landing bigger fish in small holes isn’t that hard
 

Sluggo

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I was on my 3rd year with a Milwaukee drill and 5A batteries with K Drill bit and SM bit. I used whichever was appropriate for the level of sand/dirt I expected in the ice. First time out this winter and the 2 batteries didn't drill more than 10 holes in 12" of ice before being dead. I should mention that my drill crapped out on me in year one and I sent it in to Milwaukee who repaired it. My buddies similar setup cuts way more holes than mine and I was not sure if it was the drill or the batteries and I didn't feel like figuring it out. Bought a SM 40V, don't think I will need to limit my hole cutting any longer.
 

wslayer

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Love the 8.5" Kdrill on Dewalt 999 early ice or dirty ice. Ion gets the nod when 20+ inches of ice. The shaving blades are just way quicker cutting.
 

NG3067

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Using a 7.5 k drill with the 40v strike master power head, works well. I too have burned up a Dewalt with the clam plate using the kdrill and am hoping using the SM powernead will last, seems good so far.
 


Davey Crockett

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I don't recall ever owning anything as trouble free an a jiffy auger, I started a collecting them when they went out of style so I'm set if I ever break one or wear it out.
 

Weekender

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I've got thousands of holes on my 7.5" K-Drill and Milwaukee M-18 Fuel Drill with the Clam plate. It works good, even in the thick stuff. Just need to swap out batteries before they overheat if you are drilling multiple back to back. For reference though, I'll be going to a Strikemaster 24v head whenever this drill burns out.
 

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