Boat Wiring~ Onboard charger and trolling motor

[RRmaniac]

Getting the boat ready to go for the year, and I am wiring in a new 24V trolling motor. Planning on using a 60A breaker, as recommended by minnkota for the trolling motor. Should I be wiring the motor to a receptacle or just hardwiring it in? Also, what kind of on-board charger should I be getting? The trolling motor and its batteries are in the front of the boat, and the starting battery is in the back of the boat. Should I be looking for a 24V charger and another one for the main battery? Or should I be buying a three bank charger? Also curious if I would have to disconnect the jumper in the 24V system if I was going to charge the batteries individually. Thanks in advance for any input or suggestions you all have for me.

 

[Kentucky Windage]

Wiring in a receptacle is the most common way to rig a trolling motor and that’s the route I would recommend. Get a 3 bank charger.

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No you don’t need to disconnect the jumper when charging the system. I break the circuit connection so I protect the trolling motor while charging.

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Some people don’t run circuit breakers but make it a point to unplug the trolling motor at the receptacle plug when charging the system.

 

[risingsun]

You need a 12v charger not 24v as the 2 bank /3 bank/4 bank/ all charge your batteries individually as 12's. I wired in a receptacle, no breaker, as first thing I do is unplug the TM before plugging in the charger (which also has a receptacle). I have had a 2 bank pro mariner for 10 years with zero issues. Mine is a 20 amp, meaning 10 amps per bank/battery.

 

[SDMF]

I like being able to unplug the motor while charging so I have a plug. I also use a breaker.

I'd start out with a 2-bank charger near the TM batteries and see if you even need one for the main. Most outboard motors have 30-60amp alternators on them and put a lot of charge back into the main when you're running from spot to spot. If I have a long day on the water running live well pumps, the radio, fish finders, etc, then I use a regular battery charger I hook up for the night.

 

[Slappy]

Whether receptacle or direct wire, make sure to use correct wire gauge for your run length according to the chart on page 21 of the minn kota manual. Don't just wire into an existing receptacle or bus board without knowing the wire supply is good.
https://minnkotamotors.johnsonoutdo...ova-BT-EN/MIN_productmanual_Terrova-BT-EN.pdf

Also follow the manual for wire gauge and splice location on the charger leads. Minn Kota has a $50 rebate offer right now. Others might too.

I never disconnect for charging because anything designed to use 12v DC is or should be designed to handle at least a few volts higher (and proportionally so for 24/36v). I can't find a spec for minn Kota but Lowrance graphs allow for up to 17v max. Smart chargers typically put out less than 15v, so I don't hesitate to use my graph in the garage even if it's charging. Motor rectifier voltage often exceeds 15v and you certainly don't power down your graph to run the motor. If minn Kotas were catching fire because a disconnect was not used when charging there would be a lot of burnt up boats including mine.

Your two trolling motor batteries will be connected in series to make 24v, but as stated above each battery will receive it's own lead from the smart charger. No need to disconnect anything to charge.

As with all marine electronics, use waterproof connections if possible and marine grade wire.

 

[Skeeter]

Whatever you decide to do be sure to use these connectors. Corrosion is your enemy and with these it’s not a worry. They are spendy, but don’t buy a kit with ones you’ll never use. Figure out what gauge wire you are using and just order that size.

 

[RRmaniac]

Thanks for all the responses. I am planning on going with the receptacle instead of hard wiring it in. I am planning on using 8 gauge wire, as recommended in the minnkota chart that Slappy linked. Any recommendations on a brand for the onboard charger? I am probably going to go the three bank route, so I can keep the main battery topped off as well.

 

[guywhofishes]

I highly prefer the forklift style connectors. After getting screwed by the Marinco plug in style twice I went with those instead. Plug style would occasionally drop voltage - cause my gps anchor to drop out, etc. Tried a number of times to correct it. Maddening.


https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/mi...m=4582214724525914&utm_content=Sporting Goods

 

[Slappy]

Charger brand: minn Kota or promariner.

Get one that will charge every battery on the boat. Don't rely on the motor to keep your cranking battery in good condition. Do not mix battery types.

 

[riverview]

I have a 24 volt Minnkota wish it was 36v in hind site. I have a 3 bank Minnkota charger, the third bank i hooked to my starting battery's so it charges when its on the lift plugged in. I have gotten into trouble jigging and slip bobbering with electronics on and killed starting battery.

 

[701FishSlayer]

Better bang for your buck than Minnkota imo.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G3F4RN8/?tag=nodakangler10-20

 

[risingsun]

Amps per bank is the key to me. The above Noco is 5 amps per bank. Like everything you buy, everyone has different needs. Do you want the batteries charged up fast, if your staying at camp and want to take late arrivals out after you have been out, you want more amps per bank. If you are just gonna pull it home to sit after fishing, smaller amps per bank is fine.

 

[Smuscha]

Skip the plug and hard wire it unless you plan on a quick detach and removing it from the bow. Tolling motor plugs are nothing but a bad connection and lead to problems. Put in the 60 amp breaker and call it good. The less connections you have to make the less problems you are going to have.

 

[Slappy]

Good points [MENTION=2962]Smuscha[/MENTION]. I will always have a quick detach mount going forward. Repairs are far more difficult without.

 

[guywhofishes]

those forklift connections are idiotproof and very stable

can’t imagine how they’d fail outside being crushed somehow (hydraulic press accident) - ha ha

 

[Tymurrey]

When I redid mine I used a heavier gauge then recommended, I think I used 6 gauge. Solder on connectors and adhesive shrink tubing. I used the forklift style plug in and would never go hardwired or any other style plug after this one. I also used white for the jumper cable between two batteries to make sure no confusion as I pull the batteries during storage. Make sure to use the good circuit breaker and not the cheap little box style auto reset ones. I had made that mistake too. I wish the Minnkota onboard chargers would have the option to unplug the cables for running through the tubing so I didn’t have to cut them and splice back together