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<blockquote data-quote="SLE" data-source="post: 239499" data-attributes="member: 3889"><p>I throw my 2 cents in here on a few things to consider. The port versus starboard side I think depends comes down to if your going with remote controls or a tiller. I know many of the pros that run till kickers run them on the starboard side. It provides a better line of site to the dash graphs, the driver is already on that side of the boat, and the weight being on that side will counter the prop torque from the main engine. I had a tiller on the port side of my last boat and noticed 2 things that I didn't like. I couldn't see my dash graphs without looking over my shoulder so I ended up mounting another hds 8 on the rear passenger gunnel. The other thing, it seemed anytime I had three in the boat, the third person always sat on the passenger side. That in turn always caused the boat to list a little with three people at idle or slow speed and If I wanted to run the kicker I had to ask someone to move over to the other side of the boat so I had a place to sit and run the kicker.</p><p></p><p>I'm currently patiently waiting for my new 219TFX to be rigged. I'm going to try it on the starboard side this time around. I did change my order from a 9.9 to the 15 pro kicker strictly for the EFI. I can't wait. It wasn't that the carbed 9.9 was terrible but not having to try an figure out if I should choke it, advance the throttle, use the primer or what not to get it to start will be nice. Also no more carbs to worry about cleaning and the weight increase is only 14lbs. It also comes with a 12 amp/145 watt alternator vs the 9.9 with a 6 amp/76 watt alternator. I believe this would alive the battery draw from the power steering if you went with forward controls. This part probably won't matter much to me as I'll be rigged with 5 battery anyway. FYI, if you go with the 15 efi, hopefully your dealer has one on the floor, I've been told they're back ordered like 20 weeks (it's kind what holding up rigging on mine). Get your order in now if you want it for open water season!</p><p></p><p>Last but not least is the trollmaster/itroll/forward controls discussion. This is a personal preference thing. I found myself doing exactly what others do using the TM to steer and fine tune speed with the kicker locked straight and the speed set. I like the tiller for quick adjustments when contour trolling steep breaks and points just due to the increase turning motion and quickness. I have however contemplated and have been thinking about adding the troll-master PRO3 which is wireless. I need to get a call into panthersteer because ideally, I would go with a panther-steer/troll master/Tiller 15 Pro Kicker setup, but will only do this if there is a way to put the panther steer into a bypass or free-wheel mode where I can still steer with the tiller. The panther steer and trollmaster will both work off the troll master pro3 wireless remote which is pretty slick. This would give the best of both worlds. Tiller control when needed and wanted, and if pulling cranks covering depths and lots of water, fully remote operation short of starting, tilt, and gear shifting.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SLE, post: 239499, member: 3889"] I throw my 2 cents in here on a few things to consider. The port versus starboard side I think depends comes down to if your going with remote controls or a tiller. I know many of the pros that run till kickers run them on the starboard side. It provides a better line of site to the dash graphs, the driver is already on that side of the boat, and the weight being on that side will counter the prop torque from the main engine. I had a tiller on the port side of my last boat and noticed 2 things that I didn't like. I couldn't see my dash graphs without looking over my shoulder so I ended up mounting another hds 8 on the rear passenger gunnel. The other thing, it seemed anytime I had three in the boat, the third person always sat on the passenger side. That in turn always caused the boat to list a little with three people at idle or slow speed and If I wanted to run the kicker I had to ask someone to move over to the other side of the boat so I had a place to sit and run the kicker. I'm currently patiently waiting for my new 219TFX to be rigged. I'm going to try it on the starboard side this time around. I did change my order from a 9.9 to the 15 pro kicker strictly for the EFI. I can't wait. It wasn't that the carbed 9.9 was terrible but not having to try an figure out if I should choke it, advance the throttle, use the primer or what not to get it to start will be nice. Also no more carbs to worry about cleaning and the weight increase is only 14lbs. It also comes with a 12 amp/145 watt alternator vs the 9.9 with a 6 amp/76 watt alternator. I believe this would alive the battery draw from the power steering if you went with forward controls. This part probably won't matter much to me as I'll be rigged with 5 battery anyway. FYI, if you go with the 15 efi, hopefully your dealer has one on the floor, I've been told they're back ordered like 20 weeks (it's kind what holding up rigging on mine). Get your order in now if you want it for open water season! Last but not least is the trollmaster/itroll/forward controls discussion. This is a personal preference thing. I found myself doing exactly what others do using the TM to steer and fine tune speed with the kicker locked straight and the speed set. I like the tiller for quick adjustments when contour trolling steep breaks and points just due to the increase turning motion and quickness. I have however contemplated and have been thinking about adding the troll-master PRO3 which is wireless. I need to get a call into panthersteer because ideally, I would go with a panther-steer/troll master/Tiller 15 Pro Kicker setup, but will only do this if there is a way to put the panther steer into a bypass or free-wheel mode where I can still steer with the tiller. The panther steer and trollmaster will both work off the troll master pro3 wireless remote which is pretty slick. This would give the best of both worlds. Tiller control when needed and wanted, and if pulling cranks covering depths and lots of water, fully remote operation short of starting, tilt, and gear shifting. [/QUOTE]
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