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<blockquote data-quote="guywhofishes" data-source="post: 119347" data-attributes="member: 337"><p>yep - small gauge wiring could be the culprit! Thumbs Up</p><p></p><p><span style="color: silver"><span style="font-size: 9px">- - - Updated - - -</span></span></p><p></p><p>This concept has merit (using a small sealed lead acid - like we all use for ice fishing).</p><p></p><p> <span style="color: #0000ff">From the Trawlers and Trawlering forum comes a way that seems to be so simple that anybody can make this a DIY project that will protect their electronics from voltage drops.</span></p><p><span style="color: #0000ff"></span></p><p><span style="color: #0000ff"></span></p><p><span style="color: #0000ff"></span></p><p><span style="color: #0000ff"></span><em><span style="color: #0000ff">It is quite simple. You use a small battery, like an automobile or lawn mower battery (or larger if you want) and connect all the instruments that need voltage protection to it. It should be located as close to the instruments as convenient. The negative of this battery is tied to the main battery negative.</span></em></p><p> <em><span style="color: #0000ff"></span></em></p><p><em><span style="color: #0000ff">You then connect the positive of this battery to the positive of the main 12 volt source (house or starting battery) with a cable that is slightly undersized. This is easier if it is a longer run to the main battery. Calculate the maximum load with all instruments on, then use a wire gauge and length so you get about 1/4 volt drop at maximum load.</span></em></p><p> <em><span style="color: #0000ff"></span></em></p><p><em><span style="color: #0000ff">If the main battery voltage is momentarily dropped by a load, the local instrument battery supports the load. Some current will flow back along the resistance wire but the resistance of the battery is so low in comparison to the resistance of the wire that the voltage won't drop much.</span></em></p><p> <em><span style="color: #0000ff"></span></em></p><p><em><span style="color: #0000ff">The battery will get a full charge because the voltage drop along the resistance will go to zero as the current goes to zero while charging with instruments off. Under normal instrument loads the battery will still get close to 100% charge.</span></em></p><p> <em><span style="color: #0000ff"></span></em></p><p><em><span style="color: #0000ff">No fancy electronics to maintain to do the job, just a piece of wire. Put a fuse in the circuit as well if it is a long run.</span></em></p><p> <em><span style="color: #0000ff"></span></em></p><p> <em><span style="color: #0000ff"></span></em></p><p><em><span style="color: #0000ff">Ann-Marie Foster,</span></em></p><p><em><span style="color: #0000ff"></span><a href="mailto:tech@yandina.com"><span style="color: #0000ff">tech@yandina.com</span></a></em></p><p></p><p><span style="color: silver"><span style="font-size: 9px">- - - Updated - - -</span></span></p><p></p><p>I'll investigate voltage drop using this approach:</p><p><a href="http://www.boatingmag.com/how-to-check-voltage-drop" target="_blank">http://www.boatingmag.com/how-to-check-voltage-drop</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="guywhofishes, post: 119347, member: 337"] yep - small gauge wiring could be the culprit! Thumbs Up [COLOR="silver"][SIZE=1]- - - Updated - - -[/SIZE][/COLOR] This concept has merit (using a small sealed lead acid - like we all use for ice fishing). [COLOR=#0000ff]From the Trawlers and Trawlering forum comes a way that seems to be so simple that anybody can make this a DIY project that will protect their electronics from voltage drops. [/COLOR][I][COLOR=#0000ff]It is quite simple. You use a small battery, like an automobile or lawn mower battery (or larger if you want) and connect all the instruments that need voltage protection to it. It should be located as close to the instruments as convenient. The negative of this battery is tied to the main battery negative. You then connect the positive of this battery to the positive of the main 12 volt source (house or starting battery) with a cable that is slightly undersized. This is easier if it is a longer run to the main battery. Calculate the maximum load with all instruments on, then use a wire gauge and length so you get about 1/4 volt drop at maximum load. If the main battery voltage is momentarily dropped by a load, the local instrument battery supports the load. Some current will flow back along the resistance wire but the resistance of the battery is so low in comparison to the resistance of the wire that the voltage won't drop much. The battery will get a full charge because the voltage drop along the resistance will go to zero as the current goes to zero while charging with instruments off. Under normal instrument loads the battery will still get close to 100% charge. No fancy electronics to maintain to do the job, just a piece of wire. Put a fuse in the circuit as well if it is a long run. Ann-Marie Foster, [/COLOR][EMAIL="tech@yandina.com"][COLOR=#0000ff]tech@yandina.com[/COLOR][/EMAIL][/I] [COLOR="silver"][SIZE=1]- - - Updated - - -[/SIZE][/COLOR] I'll investigate voltage drop using this approach: [URL]http://www.boatingmag.com/how-to-check-voltage-drop[/URL] [/QUOTE]
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