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electric floor heat question
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<blockquote data-quote="Mocha" data-source="post: 129636" data-attributes="member: 1002"><p>To the OP,</p><p>We have installed 10-15 in floor hydronic electric boilers systems in our homes and rentals. We live in north central Minnesota so mostly sand. Off peak or ripple(duel heat) systems work fine with a back up. All our buildings have gas fire places for when the system is rippled and/or shut downs. Our electric rates for the off peak the last time I check was about 1/2 to 2/3rds for the off peak vs general service meter. Check with your electric company and find out what the difference in kilowatt is for each. Dig down outside a couple of feet to see if the outside walls are insulated. We have two different installations on our buildings. One is insulate the slab down and out a total of 4' so we have insulation going straight down 2' and then straight out 2' with no insulation under the slab (frost travels at a 45 degree angle). These homes have the cheapest electric rate but the power turns on at 11:00pm at night and shuts off at 7:00am in the morning so they heat up the slab and heatsink area of sand under the slab during the night and then all that heat is slowly released during the day. Very unresponsive system. You are at the mercy of what ever the temp is or isn't until the power is once again turned on or you open windows if too hot. </p><p></p><p>Our other buildings have the outside of the slab and completely under the slab insulated with no heat sink......insulation, pex tubing, rebar, and the concrete and gets rippled for periods of 2-4 hours with system shut down during peak hours of the day. This system is also on a duel heat rate from the electric company which is slightly higher than the true off peak. </p><p>Of the two systems the fully insulated slabs are much more responsive to room temp. The heat sink system is very unresponsive until the next day since the power is shut off for 16 hours at a time.</p><p></p><p>So knowing if your slab is fully insulated or set up like a heat sink would be beneficial. Then talk with the electric company and decide which way to power the system. </p><p></p><p>PS: In our area the electric rates have gone up quit a bit and I would love to be able to hook up NG boilers. If propane stayed at the current prices, which they won't, that would work also but NG rates seem to be the cheapest per BTU and most consistent. Good Luck and stay warm this winter!</p><p></p><p>PS2: How many square feet in the home, what is your heat source for the upstairs and what is your heating bill amount?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Mocha, post: 129636, member: 1002"] To the OP, We have installed 10-15 in floor hydronic electric boilers systems in our homes and rentals. We live in north central Minnesota so mostly sand. Off peak or ripple(duel heat) systems work fine with a back up. All our buildings have gas fire places for when the system is rippled and/or shut downs. Our electric rates for the off peak the last time I check was about 1/2 to 2/3rds for the off peak vs general service meter. Check with your electric company and find out what the difference in kilowatt is for each. Dig down outside a couple of feet to see if the outside walls are insulated. We have two different installations on our buildings. One is insulate the slab down and out a total of 4' so we have insulation going straight down 2' and then straight out 2' with no insulation under the slab (frost travels at a 45 degree angle). These homes have the cheapest electric rate but the power turns on at 11:00pm at night and shuts off at 7:00am in the morning so they heat up the slab and heatsink area of sand under the slab during the night and then all that heat is slowly released during the day. Very unresponsive system. You are at the mercy of what ever the temp is or isn't until the power is once again turned on or you open windows if too hot. Our other buildings have the outside of the slab and completely under the slab insulated with no heat sink......insulation, pex tubing, rebar, and the concrete and gets rippled for periods of 2-4 hours with system shut down during peak hours of the day. This system is also on a duel heat rate from the electric company which is slightly higher than the true off peak. Of the two systems the fully insulated slabs are much more responsive to room temp. The heat sink system is very unresponsive until the next day since the power is shut off for 16 hours at a time. So knowing if your slab is fully insulated or set up like a heat sink would be beneficial. Then talk with the electric company and decide which way to power the system. PS: In our area the electric rates have gone up quit a bit and I would love to be able to hook up NG boilers. If propane stayed at the current prices, which they won't, that would work also but NG rates seem to be the cheapest per BTU and most consistent. Good Luck and stay warm this winter! PS2: How many square feet in the home, what is your heat source for the upstairs and what is your heating bill amount? [/QUOTE]
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