Attaching Crankbaits

[svnmag]

Below vid does not match MPE. I remove all split rings from the nose as I always use a clip. IMO the clip should match a loop knot without steel abrading the line. I seldom fish a crank with a steady retrieve; even "deep runners". 98%: I'm getting the lure to depth and initiating the "Chicago" retrieve at various tempos. IME a loop/etc to split ring will cause a bait to randomly veer to one side as if extremely out of tune.

IMO; the vid should've concentrated more on real time action as opposed to slow motion. There are subtle differences in lure action which are lost in slo-mo. I surmise the vid was intended for successful trolling. I'd rather fuck a sandbag.

Chicago retrieve again: The low rod tip goes DADA DADA dum stop DADA DADA dum stop DADA DADA dum stop DADA stop DADA stop etc.

Watch your line as most strikes occur during "stop" and felt during "DA". No shit. Also monitor the spool for loops. You're playing with a lot of slack. This is all spinning tackle stuff. Even as a "drummer" I don't have the dexterity to perform this shit for real with a bait caster even with appropriate sized Husky Jerks. Watch your spool and know how to clear a loop without opening the bail.



Chicago retrieve:

Bonus:

 

[JayKay]

I'm pretty good. I don't even tie the lure on. I just throw it out, and the fish bring it back in their mouths.

 

[Bobkat]

Pretty good method comparison video 7. I agree about the slo mo feature - took me a while to figure it was slow mo rather than slow retrieve, but I’m a slow learner.
Years ago I remember Tony Dean advising using a snap, never a snap swivel, and the ?Palomar knot. Like you, first thing I do is remove the split ring from the crank, unless I’m in a huge hurry during a boil or something). Then use a snap for fast changes with a Palomar knot.
My question:
In his video the snaps are all symmetrical, the only ones I ever use, but seems more and more snaps and snap swivels are being made with one side a bit deeper than the other side rather than smooth rounded symmetrical shape. The off round shape seems to me, a relatively mediocre fisherman, to be the dumbest design, serving only to de tune a carefully tuned crank bait as soon as you begin to reel it in. Sticks the nose of the crank to one side of the snap! What’s the purpose of that?
Again, thanks for the video and your own personal experience. I love learning something new every day.
One more question:
In your opinion, like he says, maybe little difference between them but is any particular method better on a really super slow retrieve? Probably a stupid question as a nice symmetrical swivel should allow a good side to side motion of the crank bait in any case.

 

[LBrandt]

I was with a couple buddies on Green Lake over by Wishek trolling for walleyes with live bait and not doing well. Seen a lot of people pulling what looked like flicker shads and doing well so we pulled into a not so windy spot and hooked on some Flicker shad and my buddies tied direct to the lure and I just hooked mine on to my snap swivel. Got told that wasn't going to work but being the stubborn German that I am a few f--koff later we went back to fishing. Hour later I was drinking beer with both hands while they were muttering to them self's. Worked for me and that's all that matters. Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in awhile. LB

 

[svnmag]

Pretty good method comparison video 7. I agree about the slo mo feature - took me a while to figure it was slow mo rather than slow retrieve, but I’m a slow learner.
Years ago I remember Tony Dean advising using a snap, never a snap swivel, and the ?Palomar knot. Like you, first thing I do is remove the split ring from the crank, unless I’m in a huge hurry during a boil or something). Then use a snap for fast changes with a Palomar knot.
My question:
In his video the snaps are all symmetrical, the only ones I ever use, but seems more and more snaps and snap swivels are being made with one side a bit deeper than the other side rather than smooth rounded symmetrical shape. The off round shape seems to me, a relatively mediocre fisherman, to be the dumbest design, serving only to de tune a carefully tuned crank bait as soon as you begin to reel it in. Sticks the nose of the crank to one side of the snap! What’s the purpose of that?
Again, thanks for the video and your own personal experience. I love learning something new every day.
One more question:
In your opinion, like he says, maybe little difference between them but is any particular method better on a really super slow retrieve? Probably a stupid question as a nice symmetrical swivel should allow a good side to side motion of the crank bait in any case.

I use this snap exclusively with a Palomar or on home rolled wire with a Palomar. My deal is mainly for convenience. Another thing similar to LB's story; if there's even a remote chance for a pike I'll have wire. Finally got sick of losing Raps and haven't detected a bit of difference in walleye/SMB activity. The key IMHO is to keep things as streamlined and subdued as possible.

PS--Northland makes superior spinnerbaits which allow use of a snap/leader.

 

[svnmag]

Let's keep things going: