Building a deer blind

Chas'n Tail

Founding Member
Founding Member
Joined
May 18, 2015
Posts
1,016
Likes
26
Points
216
Location
Northern ND
So I had a garage project and grossly miscalculated how many sheets of 1/2" OSB I needed so decided to build myself a deer blind. I already have the batt insulation and only need the 2x4s now. I want it big enough to pull a bow back in yet light enough to pull/drag behind a snowmobile or 4 wheeler. Anyone ever tried mounting skis or something on the bottom of one before? Thought about wheels but then ur getting into axles and would be heavier than I would like. Maybe I'm chasin smoke here and it can't be done with the material I have and keep it light enough. I'm pretty green with this stuff and am open to suggestions. Any and all knowledge on the topic is much appreciated.
 


Sluggin_Guts

Founding Member
Founding Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2015
Posts
108
Likes
2
Points
103
Skids should be very doable. I know a guy that built a few hay bale blinds on skids. They look real as heck and are pretty easy to move.
 

Retired Educator

★★★★★ Legendary Member
Joined
May 4, 2016
Posts
3,237
Likes
204
Points
283
Location
North Dakota
You don't necessarily need 2X4, you could use 2X2 and save a little weight. Insulate with styrofoam and their is less weight and won't get wet like batt insulation. Pulling on skis will depend on what type of terrain you are going to pull it over. The rougher the terrain the harder it will pull.

Using 2X2 with OSB nailed (prefer screws) would be stiff enough. A couple of 2X6 on the bottom for skis would work in most cases i would think. I have found that 4'X4' is large enough for one person, 4'X6' fits 2 better.
 

KDM

Founding Member
Founding Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2015
Posts
9,650
Likes
1,583
Points
563
Location
Valley City
I have three elevated 4 X 8 box blinds and they are too narrow for me to put in a chair and comfortably maneuver a bow at full draw so they are gun stands. If I were to build another one I would have at least 6 ft of width to accommodate a chair and other equipment (heater) or another person. Make the windows larger than you think you need and consider not having a window in the back if you are using it on the ground. See through blinds tend to get you picked off. Make it taller than you think you need as having a hanger for your bow at a convenient height reduces movement and allows for easier drawing as you won't have to worry about hitting the roof. It's also nice to have places to hang gear instead of having it on the floor where you will inevitably kick it while that buck you want is right there. I would also try to make use of it as a semi permanent fish house. If you're going to spend the coin, use it as much as possible. Good Luck!! Hope this helped.
 

LBrandt

★★★★★ Legendary Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2016
Posts
10,905
Likes
1,539
Points
583
Location
SE ND
If using screws in your build don't use sheetrock screws. They are tempered and will break if put under vibration. Use regular construction or deck screws, coated one are the best if exposed to the elements.
 


Chas'n Tail

Founding Member
Founding Member
Thread starter
Joined
May 18, 2015
Posts
1,016
Likes
26
Points
216
Location
Northern ND
You don't necessarily need 2X4, you could use 2X2 and save a little weight. Insulate with styrofoam and their is less weight and won't get wet like batt insulation. Pulling on skis will depend on what type of terrain you are going to pull it over. The rougher the terrain the harder it will pull.

Using 2X2 with OSB nailed (prefer screws) would be stiff enough. A couple of 2X6 on the bottom for skis would work in most cases i would think. I have found that 4'X4' is large enough for one person, 4'X6' fits 2 better.
So it sounds like 2x2 is the way to go to keep it light. Would you just cut the front of the 2x6 at a 45 degree angle to create the skis? also how tall would you go? I feel 4 feet is too short, but is 8 feet overkill if I'm gonna haul it around?

- - - Updated - - -

I have three elevated 4 X 8 box blinds and they are too narrow for me to put in a chair and comfortably maneuver a bow at full draw so they are gun stands. If I were to build another one I would have at least 6 ft of width to accommodate a chair and other equipment (heater) or another person. Make the windows larger than you think you need and consider not having a window in the back if you are using it on the ground. See through blinds tend to get you picked off. Make it taller than you think you need as having a hanger for your bow at a convenient height reduces movement and allows for easier drawing as you won't have to worry about hitting the roof. It's also nice to have places to hang gear instead of having it on the floor where you will inevitably kick it while that buck you want is right there. I would also try to make use of it as a semi permanent fish house. If you're going to spend the coin, use it as much as possible. Good Luck!! Hope this helped.
Are your elevated stands mobile? I like the idea of being off the ground!! would 2x2s as a frame be too flimsy for an elevated stand?

- - - Updated - - -

If using screws in your build don't use sheetrock screws. They are tempered and will break if put under vibration. Use regular construction or deck screws, coated one are the best if exposed to the elements.
Already have a box of triple coated 3 inch deck screws just for that purpose.
 

KDM

Founding Member
Founding Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2015
Posts
9,650
Likes
1,583
Points
563
Location
Valley City
My stands are permanent, but I kind of wish I'd have known then what I know now as I'd have built them as I described. Stability will depend on where you plan to put the stand IMO. Wind is a bitch and 2X2's may not hold up to that beating, but there are quite a few variables that can change the equation such as stud spacing, walls, insulation, roof, etc. etc. Having a platform to put the stand on might be feasible, assuming you can get it on the platform safely, attach it securely, AND you can get at it after deer season. This year is a good example of what you might have to deal with when trying to get it back down. You might be better off building a platform and putting up a pop up blind if you want elevation, but elevation regardless of design, is going to cost a bunch more in time and materials.
 

Recent Posts

Friends of NDA

Top Posters of the Month

  • This month: 24
  • This month: 14
  • This month: 11
  • This month: 10
  • This month: 10
  • This month: 9
  • This month: 8
  • This month: 8
  • This month: 7
  • This month: 7
Top Bottom