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Message: <blockquote data-quote="JMF" data-source="post: 35120" data-attributes="member: 869">I mentioned in my extension building thread I would try to put together a snare building tutorial. Well I had a some time tonight to put something together. I will start out by saying this is how I do it, it is by no means the only way to build a snare and there are many other types of components and styles out there.  But I will say, after trying many different styles and parts over the years this is what has come to work the best for me. This style was adopted from Marty Senneker.Here's what you will need for components:1. 6' of galvanized 5/64" 1x19 cable (snareone.com $0.47) 2. Cam Lock with teeth (snareshop.com $0.39)3. 265# Senneker BAW S-hook ($0.35)4. Stinger kill spring (torsion dispatch spring) ($1.00)5. Senneker trigger ($0.35)6. Mini deer stop ($0.08)7. 2 Aluminum stop buttons ($0.12)8. Aluminum double ferrule ($0.06)9. Poly support collar or whammy (1/2" piece of .17" ID polyvinyl tubing) ($0.01)10. Copper trap tag ($0.17)[ATTACH=full]1107[/ATTACH]This is a snare that will cost $3 a piece to build from new components, but remember that everything but items 1,6,7 and 8 are reusable many times over. So once the initial snare is built it will only cost $0.73 to rebuild it and you will be using good quality, proven components.I use a bench mounted swagger for cutting cable and crimping stops and ferrules, but a standard cable cutters can be used for cutting and the stops and ferrules can be hammered on. If you use the trigger with the torsion springs you will need the setter (red handled tool). Lastly a needle nose.[ATTACH=full]1098[/ATTACH]First you will need to cut a 6' piece of cable.Then crimp the 2 stop buttons onto one end of the cable. You can get by with using only 1 but I will go into more detail as to why I use 2 later.[ATTACH=full]1099[/ATTACH]Next I make a mark with a sharpie at 1" and 37" from the stops. The 1" mark is for the reverse bend that balances the spring and the 37" mark is for the deer stop. ND requires a deer stop is set so the loop is no larger than 12" in diameter. (12*3.14=37.6).[ATTACH=full]1100[/ATTACH]Then put in the reverse bend using the needle nose. I pinch the cable at the 1" mark then bend the cable backwards against the natural curve of the cable.[ATTACH=full]1101[/ATTACH]I usually sit down and attach the S-hooks to the locks before hand but I will show how that's done here.the big end of the s-hook goes through the hole in the lock and closed, then close the small end. The purpose of the S-hook is to break away if a deer is caught.[ATTACH=full]1102[/ATTACH] Next I thread the spring, trigger and lock onto the snare from the end opposite the stop buttons. Then slide everything down to the other end.[ATTACH=full]1103[/ATTACH] Then use the setter tool to compress the spring and hook the trigger.[ATTACH=full]1104[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]1105[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]1106[/ATTACH]Then push the spring to the end.Continued....</blockquote>

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