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Beginner reloading question
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<blockquote data-quote="Tymurrey" data-source="post: 128826" data-attributes="member: 859"><p>I read it as he was looking at the data in the book for 100gr bullets and comparing them to factory 80gr which would make sense that the book wouldn't be anywhere close. With reloading its definitely an apples to apples thing or comparisons don't work. So the box they were looking at were 80gr at lets say 3400 fps and the manual was for 100gr at probably 2900 fps and they were trying to figure out why the velocities don't match. </p><p></p><p>The beauty of reloading now compared to when I started is the internet is a wealth of knowledge between youtube videos and forums you can read for days and months. Luckily my dad guided me some but a lot of it I still learned from stupid mistakes and a lot of luck that I never got hurt. I would for sure start on a good forum that has some reloading basics sticky's.</p><p></p><p>One thing with beginning reloading that I can just about guarantee will eventually happen is you will stick a brass in a die from not enough lube so use plenty of lube, I use the hornady one shot. I would recommend you purchase a stuck case remover kit or make your own and make sure you have some extra decapping pins. Check primer pockets before seating primers for any obstructions such as tumbling media from cleaning. Check the length of all your brass after sizing and trim accordingly. Make sure you are only reloading one caliber and load at a time so as to not get confused on your bench or grab the wrong powder/primers. I don't even have a tv in my reloading room as distractions can cause problems. Make sure to calibrate your scale especially if using a digital. Even though some powders may have close to the same name (IMR 4350, H4350) they are not the same and use the data accordingly. Follow the directions on setting up the resizing die, can cause problems if not screwed in far enough and not sizing the brass correctly, as you get more experienced you can start with bumping shoulders and neck sizing but that will come with experience. Every gun is different, a load that may not be over pressure in one can be over pressure in another, with todays data I haven't seen it often and only with max loads but something to be aware of. Brass brand makes a difference as capacity between brands is different and a good load in one brand may be hot in another. </p><p></p><p>I know I just posted a jumbled up mess but wanted to give you and your friend some things to think about and watch for when starting reloading. I enjoy reloading but it is one of those things that deserves respect and attention.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Tymurrey, post: 128826, member: 859"] I read it as he was looking at the data in the book for 100gr bullets and comparing them to factory 80gr which would make sense that the book wouldn't be anywhere close. With reloading its definitely an apples to apples thing or comparisons don't work. So the box they were looking at were 80gr at lets say 3400 fps and the manual was for 100gr at probably 2900 fps and they were trying to figure out why the velocities don't match. The beauty of reloading now compared to when I started is the internet is a wealth of knowledge between youtube videos and forums you can read for days and months. Luckily my dad guided me some but a lot of it I still learned from stupid mistakes and a lot of luck that I never got hurt. I would for sure start on a good forum that has some reloading basics sticky's. One thing with beginning reloading that I can just about guarantee will eventually happen is you will stick a brass in a die from not enough lube so use plenty of lube, I use the hornady one shot. I would recommend you purchase a stuck case remover kit or make your own and make sure you have some extra decapping pins. Check primer pockets before seating primers for any obstructions such as tumbling media from cleaning. Check the length of all your brass after sizing and trim accordingly. Make sure you are only reloading one caliber and load at a time so as to not get confused on your bench or grab the wrong powder/primers. I don't even have a tv in my reloading room as distractions can cause problems. Make sure to calibrate your scale especially if using a digital. Even though some powders may have close to the same name (IMR 4350, H4350) they are not the same and use the data accordingly. Follow the directions on setting up the resizing die, can cause problems if not screwed in far enough and not sizing the brass correctly, as you get more experienced you can start with bumping shoulders and neck sizing but that will come with experience. Every gun is different, a load that may not be over pressure in one can be over pressure in another, with todays data I haven't seen it often and only with max loads but something to be aware of. Brass brand makes a difference as capacity between brands is different and a good load in one brand may be hot in another. I know I just posted a jumbled up mess but wanted to give you and your friend some things to think about and watch for when starting reloading. I enjoy reloading but it is one of those things that deserves respect and attention. [/QUOTE]
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