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Boat Floor Replacement
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<blockquote data-quote="defiant1" data-source="post: 162130" data-attributes="member: 2208"><p>Currently, I am in the middle of replacing the majority of the floor in my boat. All suggestions listed have merit based on what works for your current budget, time constraints and the work area (shop, garage, outside) your boat resides.</p><p></p><p>After I took up the old floor I inspected the stringers and supports that are attached to the hull. My aluminum boat is a '99 and I am not the original owner. Some of the welds on the linear supports (that are welded to the hull) had cracked. So, I got those repaired. Also, I reinforced the stringers with aluminum angle as well. I might install some pink foam board in the spaces where there is no spray foam to augment the buoyancy a bit. The space is approximately 24" x 60" x 4.5". I am still on the fence with this idea.</p><p></p><p>I replaced all fuel hose, fuel sending unit, installed a water separator filter, replaced bow livewell fill and drain hoses, and replaced stereo speakers as well.</p><p></p><p>I will use multiple layers of spar varnish to coat my plywood floor panels and will install 20 oz carpet. I thought about other flooring options, but carpet fit my situation.</p><p></p><p>I am using 5/8" exterior grade plywood for the floor. Nobody local had 5/8" marine grade plywood and I wasn't going to order it. The 5/8" plywood will match the floor portions I am not replacing (bow section and rear most portion under the rear deck). The original floor, I took out, I literally could have cleaned up and used again (no soft spots) and it wasn't covered in epoxy or painted either. </p><p></p><p>The floor I am replacing is basically 3 separate sections. I thought about wrapping each of the three sections, however the carpet that wraps underneath would cause the plywood to raise up around the perimeter and I would have to install a spacer in the center to make up the difference in height. Not to mention the seams would be uneven where the existing floor meets the new floor. The old carpet was one solid piece of carpet with no seams that did not wrap around the plywood. I may do that again so the plywood fits flat to the aluminum stringers and bracing when I attach it.</p><p></p><p>Also, I am on the fence on whether to use aluminum rivets or stainless steel fasteners to attach the floor. Quite a few of the original rivets had popped and that is one of the reasons I took up the floor. I bought larger diameter dome rivets to use but I do have SS screws available as well. </p><p></p><p>As a few forum members alluded to, this is a time sucker of a project. Nothing goes as easy as you think and simple things prove frustrating throughout.</p><p></p><p>I did keep the old carpet (it did not tear when removing) and old floor for a template. I hope to have the new floor cut and spar varnish applied by this Sunday evening. This should give me time to figure out what carpet configuration I want to use as well as what fasteners to use.</p><p></p><p>Good luck with your project.</p><p>d1</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="defiant1, post: 162130, member: 2208"] Currently, I am in the middle of replacing the majority of the floor in my boat. All suggestions listed have merit based on what works for your current budget, time constraints and the work area (shop, garage, outside) your boat resides. After I took up the old floor I inspected the stringers and supports that are attached to the hull. My aluminum boat is a '99 and I am not the original owner. Some of the welds on the linear supports (that are welded to the hull) had cracked. So, I got those repaired. Also, I reinforced the stringers with aluminum angle as well. I might install some pink foam board in the spaces where there is no spray foam to augment the buoyancy a bit. The space is approximately 24" x 60" x 4.5". I am still on the fence with this idea. I replaced all fuel hose, fuel sending unit, installed a water separator filter, replaced bow livewell fill and drain hoses, and replaced stereo speakers as well. I will use multiple layers of spar varnish to coat my plywood floor panels and will install 20 oz carpet. I thought about other flooring options, but carpet fit my situation. I am using 5/8" exterior grade plywood for the floor. Nobody local had 5/8" marine grade plywood and I wasn't going to order it. The 5/8" plywood will match the floor portions I am not replacing (bow section and rear most portion under the rear deck). The original floor, I took out, I literally could have cleaned up and used again (no soft spots) and it wasn't covered in epoxy or painted either. The floor I am replacing is basically 3 separate sections. I thought about wrapping each of the three sections, however the carpet that wraps underneath would cause the plywood to raise up around the perimeter and I would have to install a spacer in the center to make up the difference in height. Not to mention the seams would be uneven where the existing floor meets the new floor. The old carpet was one solid piece of carpet with no seams that did not wrap around the plywood. I may do that again so the plywood fits flat to the aluminum stringers and bracing when I attach it. Also, I am on the fence on whether to use aluminum rivets or stainless steel fasteners to attach the floor. Quite a few of the original rivets had popped and that is one of the reasons I took up the floor. I bought larger diameter dome rivets to use but I do have SS screws available as well. As a few forum members alluded to, this is a time sucker of a project. Nothing goes as easy as you think and simple things prove frustrating throughout. I did keep the old carpet (it did not tear when removing) and old floor for a template. I hope to have the new floor cut and spar varnish applied by this Sunday evening. This should give me time to figure out what carpet configuration I want to use as well as what fasteners to use. Good luck with your project. d1 [/QUOTE]
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