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<blockquote data-quote="PrairieGhost" data-source="post: 276513" data-attributes="member: 704">That's surprising.&nbsp; Do you happen to know the ignition temperature of 4064.&nbsp; I don't, but most modern powders ignite between 801 and 867 degree F.&nbsp; I believe black powder ignites at 500 degrees F.&nbsp; The black powder substitutes all fall between those two temperatures. I would think 4064 would hamper ignition. The old flintlock shooters would put a small object in the touch hole to keep powder out.&nbsp; If powder got in the touch hole and didn't allow a spark into the chamber ignition was slow because the powder in the touch hole burned like a fuse.&nbsp; In modern muzzleloaders the same thing can happen.&nbsp; I find better accuracy if I actually fire a fouling shot then use a nipple pick to ensure the nipple is open on my Hawken or inline.&nbsp; Even better is to leave the nipple pick in place while you dump your powder and seat the bullet.&nbsp; The old drum and nipple ignition systems are the hardest to ignite.&nbsp; If you have a problem with a modern inline with direct fire to the powder charge something is plugged.&nbsp; Like I said I fire a couple of caps or an actual load.&nbsp; If you fire caps only you likely have a plugged line of fire.My Hawken is six inches low with a clean cold barrel (patched ball).&nbsp; A fouling shot and all following shots are all on at 100 yards.&nbsp; My inlines with sabots require no fouling shot.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="PrairieGhost, post: 276513, member: 704"] That's surprising. Do you happen to know the ignition temperature of 4064. I don't, but most modern powders ignite between 801 and 867 degree F. I believe black powder ignites at 500 degrees F. The black powder substitutes all fall between those two temperatures. I would think 4064 would hamper ignition. The old flintlock shooters would put a small object in the touch hole to keep powder out. If powder got in the touch hole and didn't allow a spark into the chamber ignition was slow because the powder in the touch hole burned like a fuse. In modern muzzleloaders the same thing can happen. I find better accuracy if I actually fire a fouling shot then use a nipple pick to ensure the nipple is open on my Hawken or inline. Even better is to leave the nipple pick in place while you dump your powder and seat the bullet. The old drum and nipple ignition systems are the hardest to ignite. If you have a problem with a modern inline with direct fire to the powder charge something is plugged. Like I said I fire a couple of caps or an actual load. If you fire caps only you likely have a plugged line of fire. My Hawken is six inches low with a clean cold barrel (patched ball). A fouling shot and all following shots are all on at 100 yards. My inlines with sabots require no fouling shot. [/QUOTE]

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