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dirt/field prep for trees?
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<blockquote data-quote="Auggie" data-source="post: 225548" data-attributes="member: 237"><p>Lycan,</p><p>The soil pH you have is great. I wouldn't get worried about a low pH unless it was less than 5.5. ideal pH is 6.3 to 7.3 (your good). If you want to lime the soil you should test the pH Buffer of the soil. That number helps with liming determination. That's the pH trapped in soil colloids (Clay/organic matter) and unweather parent material.</p><p></p><p> Low N and P just shows you will have to apply fertilizer. You will get a release of N if the area is worked. I couldn't tell you how much. Nitrate is short lived under a natural system as the diverse perrennials will suck up any free nitrate readily. </p><p></p><p>I also wouldn't worry about micro nutrients (in most instances). Your pH is below 7 so things like iron won't precipitate and tie-up. The organic matter is a big source of micro nutrients.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Auggie, post: 225548, member: 237"] Lycan, The soil pH you have is great. I wouldn't get worried about a low pH unless it was less than 5.5. ideal pH is 6.3 to 7.3 (your good). If you want to lime the soil you should test the pH Buffer of the soil. That number helps with liming determination. That's the pH trapped in soil colloids (Clay/organic matter) and unweather parent material. Low N and P just shows you will have to apply fertilizer. You will get a release of N if the area is worked. I couldn't tell you how much. Nitrate is short lived under a natural system as the diverse perrennials will suck up any free nitrate readily. I also wouldn't worry about micro nutrients (in most instances). Your pH is below 7 so things like iron won't precipitate and tie-up. The organic matter is a big source of micro nutrients. [/QUOTE]
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