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Getting Started Trolling Cranks
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<blockquote data-quote="eyexer" data-source="post: 342461" data-attributes="member: 315"><p>I’ve been trolling cranks since about 2000. Long before 99% of the fishermen started doing it. It’s evolved a lot since then. Personal preferences vary immensely. It boils down to what your most comfortable with, the body of water your fishing and knowing where your bait is and being able to repeat things to get your bait back to the target depth. I’ve tried numerous methods and keep going back to just a bait on a line. No lead core or snap weights for me. I have cranks of all shapes and sizes. About 500 of them. So I can usually get whatever shape,style, color, action of crank they’re looking for to the depth they’re in. Not everybody is going to be dumb enough to invest in 500 cranks so you need options like listed above. Understand that there is a huge learning curve for some types of cranking. It’s not everyday you can throw on a shad rap and troll in 12’ of water and catch fish. Without a doubt the biggest and largest number of big fish have come on cranks for me. And most in late august through October. </p><p></p><p>ive tried numerous rod setups. And to be honest this will totally depend on how you wish to set your boat up and what type rods your comfortable with. Planer boards are something I use a lot but you can’t always use them for various reasons. And I’ve owned numerous brands of boards and have rid myself of all but offshore boards. I’ve tried all kinds of different line over the years and haven’t found anything I like better than braid in the 10-15 LB range. Mostly because I crank the majority of the time when fish are down around 30’. And I can get more lures to that depth with small diameter braid. There are some things you need to know about braid though and the biggest is you have to set your drag super light otherwise you risk tearing the crank from their mouth. When I first started cranking the depth curves were huge to possess. But after cranking for years I don’t even need them anymore. You get so accustomed to knowing what depth they’re going to run at with different line setups, etc. and it doesn’t take but two minutes to determine their running depth anyway. It’s just good to know this when your looking to buy baits for certain situations. </p><p></p><p>as far as rods go you don’t need to spend a lot of money. My best performing rods used to be cheap $20 Shakespeare 6’ rods I ran in rod holders straight behind the boat. Man you could read those rods good. For planers I use 7’-6” telescopic Daiwa rods. Can’t beat em for the price. If running boards I’ll try to use my longer rods if there’s bigger waves. The number one thing I see people struggle with, especially trolling boards, is in bigger waves and wind, is trolling against the wind. That will damper your enjoyment of cranking in a hurry. Man I could go on for a really long time on this subject</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="eyexer, post: 342461, member: 315"] I’ve been trolling cranks since about 2000. Long before 99% of the fishermen started doing it. It’s evolved a lot since then. Personal preferences vary immensely. It boils down to what your most comfortable with, the body of water your fishing and knowing where your bait is and being able to repeat things to get your bait back to the target depth. I’ve tried numerous methods and keep going back to just a bait on a line. No lead core or snap weights for me. I have cranks of all shapes and sizes. About 500 of them. So I can usually get whatever shape,style, color, action of crank they’re looking for to the depth they’re in. Not everybody is going to be dumb enough to invest in 500 cranks so you need options like listed above. Understand that there is a huge learning curve for some types of cranking. It’s not everyday you can throw on a shad rap and troll in 12’ of water and catch fish. Without a doubt the biggest and largest number of big fish have come on cranks for me. And most in late august through October. ive tried numerous rod setups. And to be honest this will totally depend on how you wish to set your boat up and what type rods your comfortable with. Planer boards are something I use a lot but you can’t always use them for various reasons. And I’ve owned numerous brands of boards and have rid myself of all but offshore boards. I’ve tried all kinds of different line over the years and haven’t found anything I like better than braid in the 10-15 LB range. Mostly because I crank the majority of the time when fish are down around 30’. And I can get more lures to that depth with small diameter braid. There are some things you need to know about braid though and the biggest is you have to set your drag super light otherwise you risk tearing the crank from their mouth. When I first started cranking the depth curves were huge to possess. But after cranking for years I don’t even need them anymore. You get so accustomed to knowing what depth they’re going to run at with different line setups, etc. and it doesn’t take but two minutes to determine their running depth anyway. It’s just good to know this when your looking to buy baits for certain situations. as far as rods go you don’t need to spend a lot of money. My best performing rods used to be cheap $20 Shakespeare 6’ rods I ran in rod holders straight behind the boat. Man you could read those rods good. For planers I use 7’-6” telescopic Daiwa rods. Can’t beat em for the price. If running boards I’ll try to use my longer rods if there’s bigger waves. The number one thing I see people struggle with, especially trolling boards, is in bigger waves and wind, is trolling against the wind. That will damper your enjoyment of cranking in a hurry. Man I could go on for a really long time on this subject [/QUOTE]
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