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<blockquote data-quote="SDMF" data-source="post: 225105" data-attributes="member: 412">1st things 1st.&nbsp; Feet and hands are IMO the 2 most subjective body parts regarding &quot;warm&quot; vs. &quot;comfortable&quot; vs. &quot;bearable but uncomfortable&quot; vs. &quot;This ain't workin!&quot;.&nbsp; Your body tells you what it tells you.&nbsp; Wear what you need to wear to make you comfortable.&nbsp; If you need chem warmers, by all means, use some chem warmers.2nd, &quot;tight&quot; = &quot;cold&quot;.&nbsp; Insulation only works if it's allowed to &quot;loft&quot; and trap your body heat.Socks, socks, socks, socks, socks!!!!!&nbsp; The degree to which you're able to manage moisture is going to directly correlate to your level of comfort.&nbsp; Cotton socks = 100% guaranteed cold feet with a better than average chance of blisters.For a 10-day last 1/2 of Oct elk hunt I'd have a pair of insulated (mine would likely be pacs) for morning and evening sits and a set of non-insulated any time I'd be moving a lot.&nbsp; Chem warmers are another option for &quot;sit time&quot; if you have a little room in your boots.I've pretty much gotten to the point that as long as I'm moving, and I've sock'd appropriately, I don't really need boot insulation.&nbsp; If I'm sitting, I prefer a roomy pac boot and sock combo that holds an insulating layer of dead air space.For a &quot;moving&quot; hunting boot I really like Cabelas Meindl Denali.&nbsp; They're stiffer than Meindl Perfekt Hunters (which also have 400gm of insulation I don't need), and not quite as stiff as Meindl Alaskans (which are no longer made in the non-insulated &quot;Hiker&quot; version anyway).If you're staying somewhere you're able to drive to, I'd have a boot dryer available as well, even if I had to go buy a propane model.&nbsp; &quot;Dry&quot; is not subjective and starting off with a boot that anything less than &quot;DRY&quot; in the AM is inviting cold feet and blisters.That's a start anyway.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="SDMF, post: 225105, member: 412"] 1st things 1st. Feet and hands are IMO the 2 most subjective body parts regarding "warm" vs. "comfortable" vs. "bearable but uncomfortable" vs. "This ain't workin!". Your body tells you what it tells you. Wear what you need to wear to make you comfortable. If you need chem warmers, by all means, use some chem warmers. 2nd, "tight" = "cold". Insulation only works if it's allowed to "loft" and trap your body heat. Socks, socks, socks, socks, socks!!!!! The degree to which you're able to manage moisture is going to directly correlate to your level of comfort. Cotton socks = 100% guaranteed cold feet with a better than average chance of blisters. For a 10-day last 1/2 of Oct elk hunt I'd have a pair of insulated (mine would likely be pacs) for morning and evening sits and a set of non-insulated any time I'd be moving a lot. Chem warmers are another option for "sit time" if you have a little room in your boots. I've pretty much gotten to the point that as long as I'm moving, and I've sock'd appropriately, I don't really need boot insulation. If I'm sitting, I prefer a roomy pac boot and sock combo that holds an insulating layer of dead air space. For a "moving" hunting boot I really like Cabelas Meindl Denali. They're stiffer than Meindl Perfekt Hunters (which also have 400gm of insulation I don't need), and not quite as stiff as Meindl Alaskans (which are no longer made in the non-insulated "Hiker" version anyway). If you're staying somewhere you're able to drive to, I'd have a boot dryer available as well, even if I had to go buy a propane model. "Dry" is not subjective and starting off with a boot that anything less than "DRY" in the AM is inviting cold feet and blisters. That's a start anyway. [/QUOTE]

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