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<blockquote data-quote="Maddog" data-source="post: 265629" data-attributes="member: 5355">Depends how handy you are.You can put the &quot;pot vents&quot; in.&nbsp; To remove shingles in the area of install.&nbsp; Cut hole in roof sheeting (not at a roof truss .....).&nbsp; In stall pot vent with overlap shingle(s) on the bottom and then install removed shingles overlapping the flanges on the pot vent cutting the shingles to match the side and top profiles of the pot vent (not the flanges....).&nbsp; Also to put roofing adhesive (black) around perimiter of pot vent flanges (bottom surfaces) when installing.You can put the ridge vent in.&nbsp; Remove existing cap shingles at roof ridge and top row of shingles at both sides of ridge.&nbsp; With circular saw cut &quot;just&quot; through the roof sheeting (depth of cut) at the ridge leaving at gap per the recommendation of the ridge vent.&nbsp; Install ridge vent per instructions that comes with them.&nbsp; Somewhat oversimplifying, but it isn't rocket science.&nbsp; Or like my son says, google it and someone has a youtube video on how to do it.Good luck.Sorry, I didn't read Petras post below.&nbsp; Do the ridge vent .....&gt;&lt;&gt;&lt;Talk to a insulating contractor about attic insulation etc.They will have a wealth of information for you.For our home location he recommended 24&quot; of blow insulation in the attic.&nbsp; 24&quot; being somewhat the point of no return where added insulation does little/no benefit for keeping cool in summer and warm in winter.&nbsp; Meaning the payback (years) gets to be very long when you go with more than 24&quot;.&nbsp; For YOUR locale, maybe the 24&quot; is different.&nbsp; You to do the legwork to find out what that insulation height should be.I beg to differ that the attic &quot;has&quot; to be the same as the outside air temp.&nbsp; Realistically that is very hard to do.&nbsp; Especially on my house with limitied/no trees, a steep roof and one story (ranch).&nbsp; There is a lot of roof/shingles.&nbsp; And a lot of air in the attic---- that heats up like an oven For example recently on a hot day I measured 118 degrees in the attic just above my 24&quot; of insulation.&nbsp; At the bottom of the blow insulation it was 78 degrees.&nbsp; In the inside of my house at the ceiling it was 77 degrees.&nbsp; The outside temperature was 88.&nbsp;&nbsp; I have soffit vent chutes (the plastic ones) between each truss along the soffit of the house.&nbsp; And I have a ridge vent.&nbsp; It stlll gets &quot;hot&quot; up there.&nbsp; Hot being relative.&nbsp;&nbsp; If one does the engineering to determine the air flow to get the temp &quot;the same&quot; as the outdoor temperature,&nbsp; my gut says that will be a lot of air flow.&nbsp; Meaning I will need a couple of &quot;huge&quot; fans.BrokenbackJack --&nbsp; I like your comment about the whole house fans.&nbsp; One of my friends has it and likes how it works.&nbsp; My question is how does one insulate for in the winter. So that you don't have a lot of heat loss (air) through the whole house fan location.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Maddog, post: 265629, member: 5355"] Depends how handy you are. You can put the "pot vents" in. To remove shingles in the area of install. Cut hole in roof sheeting (not at a roof truss .....). In stall pot vent with overlap shingle(s) on the bottom and then install removed shingles overlapping the flanges on the pot vent cutting the shingles to match the side and top profiles of the pot vent (not the flanges....). Also to put roofing adhesive (black) around perimiter of pot vent flanges (bottom surfaces) when installing. You can put the ridge vent in. Remove existing cap shingles at roof ridge and top row of shingles at both sides of ridge. With circular saw cut "just" through the roof sheeting (depth of cut) at the ridge leaving at gap per the recommendation of the ridge vent. Install ridge vent per instructions that comes with them. Somewhat oversimplifying, but it isn't rocket science. Or like my son says, google it and someone has a youtube video on how to do it. Good luck. Sorry, I didn't read Petras post below. Do the ridge vent ..... ><>< Talk to a insulating contractor about attic insulation etc. They will have a wealth of information for you. For our home location he recommended 24" of blow insulation in the attic. 24" being somewhat the point of no return where added insulation does little/no benefit for keeping cool in summer and warm in winter. Meaning the payback (years) gets to be very long when you go with more than 24". For YOUR locale, maybe the 24" is different. You to do the legwork to find out what that insulation height should be. I beg to differ that the attic "has" to be the same as the outside air temp. Realistically that is very hard to do. Especially on my house with limitied/no trees, a steep roof and one story (ranch). There is a lot of roof/shingles. And a lot of air in the attic---- that heats up like an oven For example recently on a hot day I measured 118 degrees in the attic just above my 24" of insulation. At the bottom of the blow insulation it was 78 degrees. In the inside of my house at the ceiling it was 77 degrees. The outside temperature was 88. I have soffit vent chutes (the plastic ones) between each truss along the soffit of the house. And I have a ridge vent. It stlll gets "hot" up there. Hot being relative. If one does the engineering to determine the air flow to get the temp "the same" as the outdoor temperature, my gut says that will be a lot of air flow. Meaning I will need a couple of "huge" fans. BrokenbackJack -- I like your comment about the whole house fans. One of my friends has it and likes how it works. My question is how does one insulate for in the winter. So that you don't have a lot of heat loss (air) through the whole house fan location. [/QUOTE]

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