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<blockquote data-quote="eyexer" data-source="post: 209307" data-attributes="member: 315"><p>Good question. As I get older I also realize I’d rather spend my time doing other things. Next time I would probably buy a rammanned one. The time down could have sucked but turns out I didn’t have much time to fish during that time and had access to a nicer boat lol. To a degree it was fun and also a pain in the ass. It was cool learning about how different engineering and technology is used. And how you have to really research these engines before blindly diving into it. They all have different things manufacturers do in terms of engineering. But I can tell you I know this thing inside and out for the most part. And it was pretty cool to see the inside of one with 1000 hrs on em. These motors can easily go 3000 hrs if you keep good oil and fuel in them.</p><p></p><p><span style="color: silver"><span style="font-size: 9px">- - - Updated - - -</span></span></p><p></p><p></p><p>That would surprise anybody lol. Not supposed to happen.</p><p></p><p><span style="color: silver"><span style="font-size: 9px">- - - Updated - - -</span></span></p><p></p><p>Couple of the interesting things I leaned on this was that they have a specific port piston and a starboard side piston. Which was quite interesting. Also how the oil system works exactly. I never really paid any attention to the oil system but when your gonna start one up with that kind of money and time invested you want it working. They use crankcase pressure to pressure up the big oil tank in the boat. That pressure pushes oil to the engine mounted tank. Then it gravity feeds to the injection pump. You have to bleed the air out of the big line from the boat mounted tank into the engine mounted tank. So you have to leave the cover off the engine mounted tank while you run it to let air out. When it starts to over fill you cap it. The injector pump is actually a little piston driven pump. It’s speed is determined by the ecm based on engine rpm and load. So when I had it put in break in mode it actually doubles the speed of the injector pump. Off the injector pump there are seven small lines. One to the reed block for each cylinder and one feeds the air pump for lube. You have to purge these lines of air also. I was so concerned about that I actually took each one off and used a 20cc syringe with oil in it to fill these lines and push the air out. With direct injected outboards you can’t simply put oil in the gas for added protection because the gas is injected above the piston. Which isn’t where you need the lubrications. On normal two strokes you have fuel, oil and air all coming up through the crank and into the cylinder. That normally lubricates the bottom end. But with no fuel going through there with direct injection you don’t get the luxury of oil in gas. So on these they inject the oil just inside each reed block for each engine and used the intake are to help atomized the oil and it essentially sprays around in there.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="eyexer, post: 209307, member: 315"] Good question. As I get older I also realize I’d rather spend my time doing other things. Next time I would probably buy a rammanned one. The time down could have sucked but turns out I didn’t have much time to fish during that time and had access to a nicer boat lol. To a degree it was fun and also a pain in the ass. It was cool learning about how different engineering and technology is used. And how you have to really research these engines before blindly diving into it. They all have different things manufacturers do in terms of engineering. But I can tell you I know this thing inside and out for the most part. And it was pretty cool to see the inside of one with 1000 hrs on em. These motors can easily go 3000 hrs if you keep good oil and fuel in them. [COLOR="silver"][SIZE=1]- - - Updated - - -[/SIZE][/COLOR] That would surprise anybody lol. Not supposed to happen. [COLOR="silver"][SIZE=1]- - - Updated - - -[/SIZE][/COLOR] Couple of the interesting things I leaned on this was that they have a specific port piston and a starboard side piston. Which was quite interesting. Also how the oil system works exactly. I never really paid any attention to the oil system but when your gonna start one up with that kind of money and time invested you want it working. They use crankcase pressure to pressure up the big oil tank in the boat. That pressure pushes oil to the engine mounted tank. Then it gravity feeds to the injection pump. You have to bleed the air out of the big line from the boat mounted tank into the engine mounted tank. So you have to leave the cover off the engine mounted tank while you run it to let air out. When it starts to over fill you cap it. The injector pump is actually a little piston driven pump. It’s speed is determined by the ecm based on engine rpm and load. So when I had it put in break in mode it actually doubles the speed of the injector pump. Off the injector pump there are seven small lines. One to the reed block for each cylinder and one feeds the air pump for lube. You have to purge these lines of air also. I was so concerned about that I actually took each one off and used a 20cc syringe with oil in it to fill these lines and push the air out. With direct injected outboards you can’t simply put oil in the gas for added protection because the gas is injected above the piston. Which isn’t where you need the lubrications. On normal two strokes you have fuel, oil and air all coming up through the crank and into the cylinder. That normally lubricates the bottom end. But with no fuel going through there with direct injection you don’t get the luxury of oil in gas. So on these they inject the oil just inside each reed block for each engine and used the intake are to help atomized the oil and it essentially sprays around in there. [/QUOTE]
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