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<blockquote data-quote="2400" data-source="post: 218128" data-attributes="member: 3254"><p><span style="color: #3E3E3E">With 7 blades I can do a lot. Here's what I use them for and the wiring gauge I used on mine, if you see 2 choices I used the bigger one (smaller number).</span></p><p></p><p><span style="color: #3E3E3E">12 gauge-------Trailer brakes</span></p><p></p><p>I have brakes on 3 out of 4 trailers. In AZ it's required that you have a breakaway switch and dedicated battery for the trailer brakes. So since the 3 trailers with brakes all have at least 1 big battery I was able to use it instead of the little battery that comes with the trailer. </p><p></p><p>The first thing I check when the brakes either don't work or just work once in a while is the ground. </p><p></p><p>Does the trailer have a good ground to the tow vehicle? If not fix it.</p><p></p><p>I take the set screw out of the barrel on the trailer plug and slide it back off the plug. That way I can use my circuit tester to check for voltage and make sure everything is working. The wiring diagram is correct the colors of the wires from your vehicle or trailer may not match this one.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]23954[/ATTACH] </p><p></p><p>If so the next step is with the trailer hooked up and plugged in, to have someone step on the brakes. Is there power to the brake wire in the plug? Is the brake wire is hooked up in the plug? If it's not or it looks iffy unscrew the set screw, pull the wire out, cut if off, strip it and put it back in and screw the set screw down.</p><p> </p><p>Did that fix it?</p><p></p><p>Next I jack up one side, then put a jack stand under the trailer to keep from killing yourself. Look at the brake wires, there are 2 of them. One is a ground and the other is the power wire.</p><p></p><p>Usually the axle has a hole drilled in both ends and the wires are fished in one side through the inside of the axle and back out the hole in the other side. After a while the wires get chaffed where they go in the holes and start shorting out. So while you're looking at them pull them out a little on each end and look to see if the insulation is rubbed off.</p><p></p><p>If the wires have cuts, scrapes or are just worn out I pull new wires. I use a butt connector and hook my new wire up to the old wire and pull one at a time through the axle. When I hook up the new wires, I use a butt connector, electrical grease, and heat shrink. I strip the ends of the 2 wires I'm connecting, slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over one of them and push it out of the way, put a little electrical grease on each wire, slide them into the butt connector, crimp them, pull on the wires to make sure you have a solid crimp, then slide the heat shrink over the butt connector and heat it until it seals the wires and butt connector.</p><p></p><p>I run the power wire from the brakes through convoluted tubing to protect it up to the front of the trailer and into the plug.</p><p></p><p>Convoluted tubing</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]23953[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>I have a 1/4" bolt welded to the trailer frame between the axles and ground the wire from the brakes to it and then run a wire from there to the ground in the plug. That way I KNOW I have a good ground for the brakes. </p><p></p><p>I mentioned a breakaway switch and a small dedicated battery for it. The breakaway switch wire is supposed to be hooked to the tow vehicle so that if the hitch or coupler breaks it will set the trailer brakes and stop the trailer. The battery is dedicated to the brake system and is charged by the tow vehicle. </p><p></p><p>Here is a diagram of the brake wiring, the colors may or may not match your trailer.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]23952[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p><span style="color: silver"><span style="font-size: 9px">- - - Updated - - -</span></span></p><p></p><p><span style="color: #333333">With 7 blades I can do a lot. Here's what I use them for and the wiring gauge I used on mine, if you see 2 choices I used the bigger one (smaller number).</span></p><p></p><p><span style="color: #333333">12/14 gauge---Left turn/brake lights</span></p><p><span style="color: #333333">12/14 gauge---Right turn/brake lights</span></p><p></p><p></p><p>So if your brake/stop light doesn't work on one or both sides.</p><p> </p><p>With the trailer hooked up and plugged in and the 4 way flashers on. </p><p></p><p>Start with the trailer ground, is it good? If not fix it.</p><p></p><p>If you have incandescent lights check them. If one is bad go on and replace both sides. If one is burned out the other isn't far behind. If you have LEDs go on to the next step.</p><p></p><p>Then with the tow vehicles 4 way flashers on, using a test light check the wires at the plug and see if you have power. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]23955[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>If you have power at the plug, check the wire all the way back to the light looking for scrapes, holes and maybe missing wires. Fix the problems as you find them working your way to the back of the trailer. </p><p></p><p>If all is good check for power at the light. Once you find the problem fix it and then recheck everything. It's a whole lot easier to fix stuff at home in the daytime rather than on the side of the road in the rain with a pissed off cop looking over your shoulder.</p><p></p><p>I have LED stop/turn/tail and marker lights on all my trailers. They don't draw much power and are visible in the rain, snow, fog and daylight. I want people to notice my trailer and really notice my turn and brake lights.</p><p></p><p>On my camper and 18' flat bed have an extra light on the side that works with the brake or turn signal. I think that extra light on the side helps visibility.</p><p></p><p>I have a 1/4" bolt welded to the trailer on both sides in the rear for a good ground and also run a wire from it to the common ground at the plug.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="2400, post: 218128, member: 3254"] [COLOR=#3E3E3E]With 7 blades I can do a lot. Here's what I use them for and the wiring gauge I used on mine, if you see 2 choices I used the bigger one (smaller number).[/COLOR] [COLOR=#3E3E3E]12 gauge-------Trailer brakes[/COLOR] I have brakes on 3 out of 4 trailers. In AZ it's required that you have a breakaway switch and dedicated battery for the trailer brakes. So since the 3 trailers with brakes all have at least 1 big battery I was able to use it instead of the little battery that comes with the trailer. The first thing I check when the brakes either don't work or just work once in a while is the ground. Does the trailer have a good ground to the tow vehicle? If not fix it. I take the set screw out of the barrel on the trailer plug and slide it back off the plug. That way I can use my circuit tester to check for voltage and make sure everything is working. The wiring diagram is correct the colors of the wires from your vehicle or trailer may not match this one. [ATTACH=CONFIG]23954._xfImport[/ATTACH] If so the next step is with the trailer hooked up and plugged in, to have someone step on the brakes. Is there power to the brake wire in the plug? Is the brake wire is hooked up in the plug? If it's not or it looks iffy unscrew the set screw, pull the wire out, cut if off, strip it and put it back in and screw the set screw down. Did that fix it? Next I jack up one side, then put a jack stand under the trailer to keep from killing yourself. Look at the brake wires, there are 2 of them. One is a ground and the other is the power wire. Usually the axle has a hole drilled in both ends and the wires are fished in one side through the inside of the axle and back out the hole in the other side. After a while the wires get chaffed where they go in the holes and start shorting out. So while you're looking at them pull them out a little on each end and look to see if the insulation is rubbed off. If the wires have cuts, scrapes or are just worn out I pull new wires. I use a butt connector and hook my new wire up to the old wire and pull one at a time through the axle. When I hook up the new wires, I use a butt connector, electrical grease, and heat shrink. I strip the ends of the 2 wires I'm connecting, slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over one of them and push it out of the way, put a little electrical grease on each wire, slide them into the butt connector, crimp them, pull on the wires to make sure you have a solid crimp, then slide the heat shrink over the butt connector and heat it until it seals the wires and butt connector. I run the power wire from the brakes through convoluted tubing to protect it up to the front of the trailer and into the plug. Convoluted tubing [ATTACH=CONFIG]23953._xfImport[/ATTACH] I have a 1/4" bolt welded to the trailer frame between the axles and ground the wire from the brakes to it and then run a wire from there to the ground in the plug. That way I KNOW I have a good ground for the brakes. I mentioned a breakaway switch and a small dedicated battery for it. The breakaway switch wire is supposed to be hooked to the tow vehicle so that if the hitch or coupler breaks it will set the trailer brakes and stop the trailer. The battery is dedicated to the brake system and is charged by the tow vehicle. Here is a diagram of the brake wiring, the colors may or may not match your trailer. [ATTACH=CONFIG]23952._xfImport[/ATTACH] [COLOR=silver][SIZE=1]- - - Updated - - -[/SIZE][/COLOR] [COLOR=#333333]With 7 blades I can do a lot. Here's what I use them for and the wiring gauge I used on mine, if you see 2 choices I used the bigger one (smaller number).[/COLOR] [COLOR=#333333]12/14 gauge---Left turn/brake lights[/COLOR] [COLOR=#333333]12/14 gauge---Right turn/brake lights[/COLOR] So if your brake/stop light doesn't work on one or both sides. With the trailer hooked up and plugged in and the 4 way flashers on. Start with the trailer ground, is it good? If not fix it. If you have incandescent lights check them. If one is bad go on and replace both sides. If one is burned out the other isn't far behind. If you have LEDs go on to the next step. Then with the tow vehicles 4 way flashers on, using a test light check the wires at the plug and see if you have power. [ATTACH=CONFIG]23955._xfImport[/ATTACH] If you have power at the plug, check the wire all the way back to the light looking for scrapes, holes and maybe missing wires. Fix the problems as you find them working your way to the back of the trailer. If all is good check for power at the light. Once you find the problem fix it and then recheck everything. It's a whole lot easier to fix stuff at home in the daytime rather than on the side of the road in the rain with a pissed off cop looking over your shoulder. I have LED stop/turn/tail and marker lights on all my trailers. They don't draw much power and are visible in the rain, snow, fog and daylight. I want people to notice my trailer and really notice my turn and brake lights. On my camper and 18' flat bed have an extra light on the side that works with the brake or turn signal. I think that extra light on the side helps visibility. I have a 1/4" bolt welded to the trailer on both sides in the rear for a good ground and also run a wire from it to the common ground at the plug. [/QUOTE]
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