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<blockquote data-quote="gone_fishing" data-source="post: 297210" data-attributes="member: 708"><p>A good portion of my rods are Scheels branch. I've had to warranty them at least twice for guides inserts coming out and didn't have any issues. Just brought it in and got a new one. I've heard some chatter on how they have changed their rod warranty policy. Need to ask next time I'm in the store but I still feel they make a decent rod for the money (especially when they are 20% off) and they usually have a good selection.</p><p></p><p>Most of my rods are spinning between 6'6" and 7' in ML. Anything longer feels awkward and unbalanced. Have a few Scheels Guide series that I like overall. I think those are usually around $100. I do have one $100+ rod and its a Scheels One Titanium in 6'6" ML for light jigs. I put a series 25 Pflueger President (which is a size down from the normal 30 series I use). This is a really nice light and sensitive setup that works great with 1/8 oz jigs. I feel this is where a more expensive/sensitive rod is worth the money. Especially if you routinely use light jigs with live bait where you are often stopping or pausing the bait. The bite is often light and more subtle vs a crankbait that a fish will often hit harder (especially in the summer when they are more aggressive).</p><p></p><p>My only baitcaster (besides line counters) is a 7' MH that I used for bottom bouncing. The reel has the 'flip switch' so I can let line out just by pressing/releasing the thumb bar. I also have 4 line counter rods. Two are 8'6" and the other are 5' shorty rods. Put the shorts out the back at a 45 deg angle the longer rods straight off the side. Seems to work well when I want to troll 4 cranks.</p><p></p><p>For line I've been transiting back to Fireline. Used for quite a few years before trying true braids (Suffix 832 and PowerPro). I like the strength, toughness, and castability of braid by I hate how it easily it gets wrapped around the tip of the rod. Braid gets so limp that is becomes almost thread like. I don't know if I'm just that special or if others have this problem but if I look at the rod wrong while handling it, the line is wrapped around the tip and under/over a guide. Fireline isn't quite as limp so maybe it doesn't cast quite as well but I don't have near the troubles with it getting wrapped around rod tips. I just put some of that new Fireline 8 carrier in 10lb on one of my jigging rods. Haven't had enough time to tell if its better then original. I also tried Nanofil for a couple years and while its very thin and casts great it's not very tough. The slights nick in the line will cause it to break. Pretty sure I've have northerns bite clean through it. Fireline isn't as tough as braid but seems to be tougher then Nanofil. Overall I think Fireline is a good all purpose no stretch line. It's also what I use on my trolling rods as a lot of dive charts list depths for it. I also see on sale for $10 for a 125 yard spool making it one of the less expensive no stretch lines.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="gone_fishing, post: 297210, member: 708"] A good portion of my rods are Scheels branch. I've had to warranty them at least twice for guides inserts coming out and didn't have any issues. Just brought it in and got a new one. I've heard some chatter on how they have changed their rod warranty policy. Need to ask next time I'm in the store but I still feel they make a decent rod for the money (especially when they are 20% off) and they usually have a good selection. Most of my rods are spinning between 6'6" and 7' in ML. Anything longer feels awkward and unbalanced. Have a few Scheels Guide series that I like overall. I think those are usually around $100. I do have one $100+ rod and its a Scheels One Titanium in 6'6" ML for light jigs. I put a series 25 Pflueger President (which is a size down from the normal 30 series I use). This is a really nice light and sensitive setup that works great with 1/8 oz jigs. I feel this is where a more expensive/sensitive rod is worth the money. Especially if you routinely use light jigs with live bait where you are often stopping or pausing the bait. The bite is often light and more subtle vs a crankbait that a fish will often hit harder (especially in the summer when they are more aggressive). My only baitcaster (besides line counters) is a 7' MH that I used for bottom bouncing. The reel has the 'flip switch' so I can let line out just by pressing/releasing the thumb bar. I also have 4 line counter rods. Two are 8'6" and the other are 5' shorty rods. Put the shorts out the back at a 45 deg angle the longer rods straight off the side. Seems to work well when I want to troll 4 cranks. For line I've been transiting back to Fireline. Used for quite a few years before trying true braids (Suffix 832 and PowerPro). I like the strength, toughness, and castability of braid by I hate how it easily it gets wrapped around the tip of the rod. Braid gets so limp that is becomes almost thread like. I don't know if I'm just that special or if others have this problem but if I look at the rod wrong while handling it, the line is wrapped around the tip and under/over a guide. Fireline isn't quite as limp so maybe it doesn't cast quite as well but I don't have near the troubles with it getting wrapped around rod tips. I just put some of that new Fireline 8 carrier in 10lb on one of my jigging rods. Haven't had enough time to tell if its better then original. I also tried Nanofil for a couple years and while its very thin and casts great it's not very tough. The slights nick in the line will cause it to break. Pretty sure I've have northerns bite clean through it. Fireline isn't as tough as braid but seems to be tougher then Nanofil. Overall I think Fireline is a good all purpose no stretch line. It's also what I use on my trolling rods as a lot of dive charts list depths for it. I also see on sale for $10 for a 125 yard spool making it one of the less expensive no stretch lines. [/QUOTE]
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