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<blockquote data-quote="SDMF" data-source="post: 302460" data-attributes="member: 412"><p>I've owned about a dozen Wby Vanguard/1500 Howa/Interarms/etc from 223 up to 300Win.</p><p></p><p>Accuracy hasn't ever been an issue, they've all shot well. Mid-80's-mid-90's models had better adjustable triggers than later models have. I haven't owned one new enough for their newer 2-stage adjustable trigger. IMO, the only ever downside was weight. I like their extractor better than a Rem 700 and I like their integral recoil lug vs. a lug sandwiched between the action/bbl.</p><p></p><p>$900 is IMO a LOT of $$ for what looks like a rifle with an injection-molded stock. Rather than spiral flutes and cera-coat, I'd rather spend the $$ on SS metal and an actual fiberglass synthetic stock (vs. plastic/injection molded).</p><p></p><p>Personally, I don't prefer that much power in a big-game rifle scope. For Deer/elk/pronghorn (Big game) rifles, I've swapped most of my 4.5-14 Leupold scopes for 2.5-10 NXS or 3-10 SHV scopes from Nightforce. I took a deer in WY last fall @ 560yds with a 270Win/2.5-10x42 NXS/140gn TSX and didn't feel the least bit hampered by 10x @ the top.</p><p></p><p>More important that what rifle/scope you choose will be actually practicing w/said combo enough to:</p><p></p><p>A. Have absolute faith that your drop/windage chart is accurate</p><p>B. Shooting enough to know how to "cheat" your chart in order to give yourself the widest margin for error.</p><p></p><p>Explaining A/B:</p><p></p><p>My deer in WY last fall was a bit uphill. Rather than trying to figure out to dial for 560 minus the slope (which didn't register on the LRF), I dialed for 550yds (which was on my chart) and then "cheated" my hold into the bottom 1/3 of the chest. That gave me a ~1.5MOA "window of forgiveness" in which to make a clean kill.</p><p></p><p>Similarly, there was a light breeze 3-5MPH from L to R. The deer was standing w/his butt into the wind. Rather than trying to guess the exact wind, I cheated my reticle to the last rib/back of the lungs. If I get no drift, it's going to kill him. If I get any drift at all, it'll be even more lethal. If I've totally blown the wind-call and get a bunch of drift, it's a clean miss, not a gut-shot. Had the deer been facing the other way, I'd have waited for him to turn his rear into the wind, or possibly not taken the shot. I knew that "back of the lungs" hold gave me a ~2 MOA window of forgiveness.</p><p></p><p>The "cheats" were nearly as important as the initial chart.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SDMF, post: 302460, member: 412"] I've owned about a dozen Wby Vanguard/1500 Howa/Interarms/etc from 223 up to 300Win. Accuracy hasn't ever been an issue, they've all shot well. Mid-80's-mid-90's models had better adjustable triggers than later models have. I haven't owned one new enough for their newer 2-stage adjustable trigger. IMO, the only ever downside was weight. I like their extractor better than a Rem 700 and I like their integral recoil lug vs. a lug sandwiched between the action/bbl. $900 is IMO a LOT of $$ for what looks like a rifle with an injection-molded stock. Rather than spiral flutes and cera-coat, I'd rather spend the $$ on SS metal and an actual fiberglass synthetic stock (vs. plastic/injection molded). Personally, I don't prefer that much power in a big-game rifle scope. For Deer/elk/pronghorn (Big game) rifles, I've swapped most of my 4.5-14 Leupold scopes for 2.5-10 NXS or 3-10 SHV scopes from Nightforce. I took a deer in WY last fall @ 560yds with a 270Win/2.5-10x42 NXS/140gn TSX and didn't feel the least bit hampered by 10x @ the top. More important that what rifle/scope you choose will be actually practicing w/said combo enough to: A. Have absolute faith that your drop/windage chart is accurate B. Shooting enough to know how to "cheat" your chart in order to give yourself the widest margin for error. Explaining A/B: My deer in WY last fall was a bit uphill. Rather than trying to figure out to dial for 560 minus the slope (which didn't register on the LRF), I dialed for 550yds (which was on my chart) and then "cheated" my hold into the bottom 1/3 of the chest. That gave me a ~1.5MOA "window of forgiveness" in which to make a clean kill. Similarly, there was a light breeze 3-5MPH from L to R. The deer was standing w/his butt into the wind. Rather than trying to guess the exact wind, I cheated my reticle to the last rib/back of the lungs. If I get no drift, it's going to kill him. If I get any drift at all, it'll be even more lethal. If I've totally blown the wind-call and get a bunch of drift, it's a clean miss, not a gut-shot. Had the deer been facing the other way, I'd have waited for him to turn his rear into the wind, or possibly not taken the shot. I knew that "back of the lungs" hold gave me a ~2 MOA window of forgiveness. The "cheats" were nearly as important as the initial chart. [/QUOTE]
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