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<blockquote data-quote="SDMF" data-source="post: 295971" data-attributes="member: 412">Objective end (furthest from your eye) has the numbers.&nbsp; Set that for the distance you're shooting.&nbsp; Do this 1st.&nbsp; You'll adjust this for large changes in distance and/or any time you &quot;know&quot; the distance and are going to have a target session.&nbsp; For shooting gophers/blackbirds you could probably set it @ 50yds and be good enough to make it work for hunting accuracy.&nbsp; For shooting groups and/or sighting-in, set the parallax adjustment as precisely as possible.Ocular is the &quot;eyepiece&quot; you look through end.&nbsp; Now that your parallax is set, you can use the focus on the ocular end.&nbsp; Once the eyepiece is focused, you're done, and really shouldn't have to touch that again, ever, unless someone messes with it.&nbsp; I'd go as far as to wrap a bit of electrical tape over the threads once you've established &quot;your&quot; spot in the focus range.Neither of these will have any effect regarding point of impact/point of aim.&nbsp; POI/POA are adjusted with the 2 knobs near the middle of the scope, one on top for elevation, one coming out to the right for windage.The idea behind Parallax and focus is to get the crosshairs into the same focal plane as the target as well as to &quot;focus out&quot; the curvature of all of the lenses in the scope.&nbsp; It will flatten your image and allow the crosshairs to appear as though they're &quot;right on&quot; the target.I lust over a sporter in both models.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="SDMF, post: 295971, member: 412"] Objective end (furthest from your eye) has the numbers. Set that for the distance you're shooting. Do this 1st. You'll adjust this for large changes in distance and/or any time you "know" the distance and are going to have a target session. For shooting gophers/blackbirds you could probably set it @ 50yds and be good enough to make it work for hunting accuracy. For shooting groups and/or sighting-in, set the parallax adjustment as precisely as possible. Ocular is the "eyepiece" you look through end. Now that your parallax is set, you can use the focus on the ocular end. Once the eyepiece is focused, you're done, and really shouldn't have to touch that again, ever, unless someone messes with it. I'd go as far as to wrap a bit of electrical tape over the threads once you've established "your" spot in the focus range. Neither of these will have any effect regarding point of impact/point of aim. POI/POA are adjusted with the 2 knobs near the middle of the scope, one on top for elevation, one coming out to the right for windage. The idea behind Parallax and focus is to get the crosshairs into the same focal plane as the target as well as to "focus out" the curvature of all of the lenses in the scope. It will flatten your image and allow the crosshairs to appear as though they're "right on" the target. I lust over a sporter in both models. [/QUOTE]

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