ATV Problem

Ponyroper

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Need a recommendation for a good Polaris mechanic. Have a recurring problem with my 1996 Magnum 425 that floods and stalls out at high RPM's when it warms up. It's so bad that 5 minutes running in a closed garage would kill you. Three trips and almost $1,000 to Action Motor Sports last year couldn't fix the problem and I'm getting pissed. I put 80 miles total on the machine last year and they replaced the air filter and spark plugs twice, cleaned the carb and jets, replaced o-rings and gaskets one time and then completely rebuilt the carb last October. I made a couple laps around the development and the problem was back so I put it away for the winter. Started right up today but within a couple minutes it was popping and backfiring at high RPM's like before and I had to shut her down. Someone must know how to fix this, any recommendations?
 


Bacon

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Sounds like the float isn't set right or the needle and seat is leaking. I would think Action would have fixed it but I guess not. If you really spent $1000 dollars and it's not fixed, I would drop it off there and tell them if they don't fix it they would hear from your lawyer. You could have bought a whole new carb for that.
 
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Ponyroper

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The last time I had it in there in Oct. when they rebuilt the carb they didn't charge me for any labor because it the third time for the same complaint but that really doesn't make me feel too much better because the problem still isn't fixed. Can't figure out why it runs so good in the shop when I pick it up but within 5 miles at home it's back to the same crap. It's really annoying because I need it for my work and I can't depend on it to run in an emergency.
 

Crankn

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After all that I'd be pissed also. Give it to them and have one of their guys to take it out and play with it all weekend tell them you want to see 50 miles on it when you get it back. It should act up in that period of time. One of those mechanics probably do a lot of riding on their time off.
 
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espringers

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Have you emptied out the gas tank? Sounds like it runs good right away once carb has been cleaned out. Then it's gunking up quickly. I would guess shit in the tank. It's a 1996. Ethanol could have taken its toll on gas lines or the inside of the tank too.

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I had a boat that I took to a shall remain unnamed dealership for 3 carb jobs. Before I took it to them the 3rd time I noticed the plastic tank looked sketchy. I mentioned it to them. But, when I got it back the 3rd time, the tank was still connected. I almost took it for a spin again. Chose to take a real good look in the tank and dump the gas out. It was full of clear floaters. Almost like liquefied plastic. Threw it away. Knew instantly I had the problem fixed. It's ran like a top ever since. Disappointed in the experts for not diagnosing it the first or second or third time and taking me for $800+. But, I learned a few lessons.
 


Ponyroper

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Action Sports cleaned the tank-or so they said. The guy I bought it from told me to only use premium gas so I did. The mechanic told me I could use regular unleaded but not ethanol. All that's in the tank now is premium. Added Seafoam to the tank last fall before storing it. Tried spraying carb cleaner in the carb tonight as I ran it but that didn't seem to have any effect. It almost seems as if the choke is stuck. I suppose I'll have to take it back to Action again and give them another $200 to look at it. Very frustrating spending $1500 repairing a $500 machine.
 

all4eyes

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Take it to sports specialties in Minot, owner is a certified in all major brands. They know their crap. Would definitely drain gas and replace fuel lines at the very least.
 

SDMF

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I didn't see anything about replacing fuel filter, did you? Is there one? Ethanol can be really hard on older fuel lines. Could be vacuum leaking somewhere too. Could be sucking air through a bad/weathered gas line.
 


BrokenBackJack

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It runs fine at lower and normal rpm's? Just acts up at upper rpm's?
Does it run fine in upper rpm's until it is fully warmed up?
 

Ponyroper

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I didn't see anything about replacing fuel filter, did you? Is there one? Ethanol can be really hard on older fuel lines. Could be vacuum leaking somewhere too. Could be sucking air through a bad/weathered gas line.

Don't believe it has a fuel filter. They never mentioned it and they replaced everything they could I'm sure. They replaced several gaskets and o-rings in the carb but don't know about the gas lines. Good suggestion.

- - - Updated - - -

Bad cam (exhaust lobe)
Faulty reverse switch

They opened it up and checked the cam. Said it was in good shape. The odometer says 2800 and it seems to work right.

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It runs fine at lower and normal rpm's? Just acts up at upper rpm's?
Does it run fine in upper rpm's until it is fully warmed up?

It starts easy and idles good. If you gun the throttle when it's cold it revs good but if you hold the throttle open it runs fine for about 30 seconds to a minute then as the engine warms up it starts to cut out and backfire and gets worse and worse until you have to shut it down. Does anyone know how the choke works in this thing. It just seems to act like the choke is stuck. Sorry if I sound stupid about this but I'm totally ignorant about small engines (and most big engines).
 

johnr

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See what it's trade value is, and upgrade. You might end up another grand into it and could have put that towards a newer machine.
Not trying to be a smart ass, but have done this before and regret putting the money and frustration into a losing battle.
Good luck, hope you don't take this the wrong way
 

NDbowman

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See what it's trade value is, and upgrade. You might end up another grand into it and could have put that towards a newer machine.
Not trying to be a smart ass, but have done this before and regret putting the money and frustration into a losing battle.
Good luck, hope you don't take this the wrong way

There is no trade value on older machines. Dealers will either tell you they don't want them, or low ball so bad it hurts. Better to try and sell it on Bisman.

I had carb problems on an old 2002 arctic cat. Dealer worked on it a few times, I finally put a new carb on for like 300 bucks at that time. Solved my problem.
 

Ponyroper

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See what it's trade value is, and upgrade. You might end up another grand into it and could have put that towards a newer machine.
Not trying to be a smart ass, but have done this before and regret putting the money and frustration into a losing battle.
Good luck, hope you don't take this the wrong way

No problem johnr. Normally I think like you and avoid throwing more money at a lost cause but the reason I hate to upgrade is because I only need the machine as an emergency backup in case I get stuck or hung up out in the rough country I'm in for my job. Sometimes I get miles out in the middle of nowhere with my company truck and if I drop it in a washout or stumble into a gumbo spot in a low spot it could make for a bad day walking out looking for help. Last year I only put 80 miles on it and most of that was driving laps around the development to see if it would keep working right after getting it back from the shop. The three or four times I really needed it out in the sticks it ran so bad I barely got to a place where I could get help. I hate to spend $3 or 4,000 for a better machine that spends all it's time sitting in the bed of my pickup but I suppose it doesn't make sense to have a cheap machine if it doesn't work when you need it.
 


Captain Ahab

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It could very easily be a bad CDI box. There are ways to test them with a multimeter. I had a dirt bike that would run perfect at idle and part throttle, but once it got over a certain RPM it would pop/sputter and die. I got a CDI box from a salvage yard and it ran perfect after that.
 

Davey Crockett

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fullrut

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I have the same four wheeler. Same issues but not as bad. Put a Shindy carb kit in it two years ago. Ethanol really raised hell with the internals. Still pops and bangs occasionally. Know another guy that has one and he had his CDI swapped out and the problem went away. I was able to download the complete repair manual from here if it helps.

http://repairmanualatv.blogspot.com/
 

REY_off

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I used to spend a lot of time riding ATVs when I was younger. Always worked/repaired them myself. Got to be pretty familiar with them. Back in the day I had an 84 Kawasaki that haunted me with these same issues for a whole season. Finally narrowed it down to the main needle jet and needle in the carb. They weren't visibly worn, but it was enough to cause the issues. Replaced both and have never had those issues since. Still own that machine.

Not sure what a carb rebuild involves at Action Motor Sports, but I know the more commonly replaced parts in carbs are the needle and seat valve, floats, and bowl gaskets.

Side note: I have found ATV forums to be very resourceful when it comes to the hard to fix issues. Usually there is always someone who has had the issue beforehand.
 


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