Beginner reloading question

PrairieGhost

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Very good post TYMURRY. I will only add one recommendation. I talked with RCBS because I was getting brass streaks in my die causing scratches in my cases. Turns out it was spray on lube not giving enough protection. I now use Imperial sizing wax. I have been reloading since 1958, but still learn something new every once in a while. I wish I had started using wax long ago.
 


fly2cast

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Gosh, sorry for all of the confusion. My neighbor knows how to reload. He's done it in the past. My original question was this, and nobody has to answer it anymore because I understand now:

Q: Why does a factory box of 80 grain .243 show over 3000 fps and there isn't any 80 grain .243 reloads shown in his book with a muzzle velocity greater than 3000 fps?

A: The book doesn't show all of the different load setups AND it is possible that the factory exaggerated their claims. He needs a different book.

That's it. This question was for my curiosity only because my neighbor didn't know the answer.
 

MarbleEyez

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Out of curiosity what's you guy's favorite "Beginner's Reloading 101" book?
 

Kurtr

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abc of reloading is what i got started on i have it in my basement and will pay it forward to any one that wants it they just pay shipping i will send it out.
 

PrairieGhost

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Gosh, sorry for all of the confusion. My neighbor knows how to reload. He's done it in the past. My original question was this, and nobody has to answer it anymore because I understand now:

Q: Why does a factory box of 80 grain .243 show over 3000 fps and there isn't any 80 grain .243 reloads shown in his book with a muzzle velocity greater than 3000 fps?

A: The book doesn't show all of the different load setups AND it is possible that the factory exaggerated their claims. He needs a different book.

That's it. This question was for my curiosity only because my neighbor didn't know the answer.

:;:thumbsup I got you the first time. Here is a site you will enjoy. http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/ I am very interested in reloading so I may give you more information than you want. :)
 


jdinny

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Well here is the deal. I looked on Nosler.com and they show that you can put in more powder than what this reloading book shows. I think the book is either outdated or being pretty conservative. Plus I believe it's an older book.

We did not chronograph test loads. I'm going strictly to what the ammo box says and what the book says. And as some have mentioned, they may have fudged their numbers a bit or shot under ideal conditions.

most rifles will shoot best just under max pressure. pressure being the amount of powder you can safely put into a case. if you have questions in regards to where your at look at your primer after the shot and the casing around the primer. if you see little black specks, that's gas leaking out the primer and your likely at max and if you go anymore you will risk blowing the primer out the back. i.e. not safe.

- - - Updated - - -

I do agree a chrono is the best way to do it. you could do a "drop chart" say for 4-5 different velocities. shoot at 100, 200, 300, 400, 500, etc and you will likely start to follow a a curve and could make a pretty good guess at what velocity your shooting at in comparison to the drop charts you created.

- - - Updated - - -

what I do is start on the low end and work up. shooting 3 shot groupings. My 7mm got more accurate as I went up with powder but noticed I was at max pressure and dropped .5 gr powder no pressure sign observed and just slightly looser group then the max pressure.
 
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SDMF

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At one time, Hornady manuals came with a kind of cheesy old film converted to DVD. They weren't fancy but did go into what was going on mechanically inside your chamber when you neck sized vs. FL sized. Put a bullet into the lands vs. off the lands, explained and showed headspace well. It was very good info for helping a guy get a sizing die set up to allow brass to closely mirror a particular rifle's chamber geometry. Their loading book had a couple of good chapters to help someone get started safely and successfully.
 


MarbleEyez

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Can someone explain Ladder testing? How do you choose which is the best load combo based on the paper results?
 

MarbleEyez

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Google it.

I did. Still trying to determine at what point you have the optimal load. Determine your max load and back off 3grains. From there do 10 rounds at .3gr increments, TWICE, at two separate targets at a min of 300 yds. Reasoning for doing twice, at two separate targets, is to take out any in-accurate shot placement from shooter error.


At what point do you pick your optimal load based off of your ladder test? That's what my question is. I'm trying to understand how you interpret the results.
 

Kurtr

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svnmag

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Why did you automatically assume you were the "someone"? There's a few gurus on here and yes I put you in that category.
 

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