Buck Rubs/scrapes

[Lycanthrope]

Bucks hit some of my young trees pretty hard this fall so Im thinking about planting a patch of trees specifically for bucks to rub on, that are fast growing and easy to propagate from cuttings. I plant to mow these to the ground each spring and then let them regrow over the summer for the bucks to play in that fall. Probably what Ill do is plant them in a big square with open area in the middle to plant some kind of food plot. Anyone tried doing this? I asked AI about species that would work good for what I plan to do and this is what it suggested:

Bucks are not random at all when choosing rub trees — they show very strong, consistent preferences across North America, including in North Dakota. Decades of field research (from state agencies, universities, and trail-camera studies) have identified a clear “hit list” of species that get rubbed far more often than others.Top 10 Most-Preferred Rub Trees/Shrubs(Ranked roughly by how disproportionately bucks choose them compared to their availability in the woods)

1. Aromatic/soft-barked conifers (especially in the North)
   • Eastern red cedar (Juniperus virginiana) – #1 rub tree in most Midwest studies
   • White cedar (arborvitae) – absolute magnets where present
   • Red pine, jack pine, balsam fir – heavily used in northern MN/WI/ND
2. Red osier dogwood – consistently in the top 3 wherever it grows
3. Willows (especially young stems 1–3" diameter)
4. Quaking aspen / bigtooth aspen – smooth white bark + slight scent = heavily rubbed
5. Staghorn sumac – velvety stems drive bucks crazy
6. Speckled alder / other alders
7. Ironwood (hop hornbeam) – surprisingly high despite small size
8. Hybrid poplar / cottonwood (young trees)
9. Serviceberry
10. Young ash, boxelder, or sugar maple (usually only 2–4" diameter)

What bucks are actually selecting for (in order of importance)

1. Aromatic bark/resin – cedar, dogwood, sumac, willow all release strong scent when scraped
2. Smooth or slightly textured bark that shreds easily and leaves visible sign
3. Stem diameter 1–4 inches (rarely larger)
4. Height of first branches around 2–4 ft (easy to reach with antlers)
5. Location – edges, funnels, inside corners, near bedding or food

North Dakota-specific findings

• NDSU and ND Game & Fish habitat studies repeatedly show eastern red cedar is the single most heavily rubbed species on the landscape (even when it’s not the most common tree).
• In the western half of ND where cedars are scarce, red osier dogwood, willows, and young cottonwoods take over as the top choices.
• Trail-camera studies in the Pembina Hills and Turtle Mountains put white cedar/arborvitae at the absolute top when available.

Bottom line for your projectIf you want the fastest, most reliable buck magnet in North Dakota that you can also propagate easily from cuttings and mow annually:→ Plant eastern red cedar (Juniperus virginiana) seedlings or transplants first (they don’t root from cuttings, but cheap and easy to buy).
→ For the cutting/mow-regrow system you described, red osier dogwood and willows are still your #1 and #2 choices — they’re in the top 5 preferred species nationally and root almost 100% from cuttings.Bucks will destroy a patch of red osier dogwood or young cedar every single fall if you put it in the right spot. It’s not even close to random.

 

[Lycanthrope]

Perfect Species & Varieties for Menoken, ND (USDA Zone 4a, Bismarck-Mandan area)Menoken sits in the Missouri River coteau country—cold winters (-30 to -40°F), hot/dry summers, heavy clay/loam soils, and often windy.
You want:

• Early spring pollen/nectar for bees (March–early May)
• Cut to the ground after bloom is finished (mid-late May)
• Explosive summer regrowth to 4–10 ft with 1–4" stems by October for buck rubs
• Easy hardwood-cutting propagation
• 100 % winter-hardy here

Here are the absolute best performers for your exact spot, ranked by how well they check every box:

Rank	Species & Best Cultivar/Variety for Menoken	Early Bee Value (March–May)	Buck Rub Preference	Summer Regrowth After May Cut	Cutting Success Rate	Notes for Your Area
1	Pussy Willow – Salix discolor	★★★★★ (one of the very first big pollen sources; bees swarm it)	Very high	6–10 ft bushy, perfect rub size	95–100 %	Grows wild all along the Missouri & Heart Rivers near you. Take cuttings from local stands.
2	Peachleaf Willow – Salix amygdaloides	★★★★☆ (tons of pollen April–early May)	Extremely high	8–12+ ft, multi-stemmed	95–100 %	Native right in Menoken/Bismarck area. Fastest willow regrowth in ND.
3	Sandbar Willow – Salix interior	★★★★☆ (pollen + some nectar)	Very high	6–12 ft, very dense	95–100 %	Loves your clay soils; forms thickets bucks destroy for rubs.
4	Bebb Willow – Salix bebbiana	★★★★☆ (early pollen)	High	5–9 ft bushy	95–100 %	Common around Menoken wetlands; slightly shorter but very dense.
5	Northwest Hybrid Poplar (Populus deltoides × P. balsamifera crosses – specifically ‘Northwest’, ‘Assiniboine’, or ‘Hill’)	★★★★ (big catkins in April)	High	8–15 ft (insanely fast)	80–90 %	Sold by ND state nurseries; roots easier than native cottonwood.
6	Quaking Aspen – local Menoken clones	★★★★ (April catkins)	Extremely high	6–10 ft suckering clumps	70–80 %	Take cuttings or root suckers from local stands—bucks hammer young aspen.

My Top 3 Recommendations for You (Menoken-specific)

1. Pussy willow (Salix discolor)
   → First big bee forage in late March/early April around Bismarck.
   → Cut to ground the last week of May → 6–10 ft of new, flexible, aromatic stems by October that bucks tear apart.
   → Literally cannot kill it here.
2. Peachleaf willow (Salix amygdaloides)
   → Grows wild within 10 miles of Menoken. Drive along the river or any creek and you’ll see 20–40 ft trees—take 12–18" cuttings in February/March.
   → Roots in a bucket of water or straight in the ground.
   → After you cut in late May it will hit 10–12 ft by fall with dozens of 1–3" stems per stump—perfect rub city.
3. Northwest or Assiniboine hybrid poplar
   → If you want something taller and faster than willow, these are sold by the Lincoln-Oakes Nursery in Bismarck for ~$1–2 per whip.
   → Early pollen + smooth white bark = buck magnets.
   → Cut to ground in late May → 10–15 ft of growth by October (yes, really).

Quick Planting Plan for a 30 × 30 ft “Bee & Buck Hub” Near Menoken

• Plant in moist low spot or where you can water the first year.
• 20–30 pussy willow cuttings (spaced 3–4 ft apart)
• 15–20 peachleaf or sandbar willow cuttings mixed in
• 5–8 hybrid poplar whips on the upwind side (for windbreak + extra height)
• Mow or cut everything to 6" stumps the last week of May every year after that.
  Result: Bees go nuts in April, then you get a 6–12 ft jungle of rub posts every fall that bucks will line up to thrash.

 

[Downrigger]

Those dang Pussy Willows gets them every time.

Cool info though. Thanks for sharing.

 

[bucksnbears]

Willow/ hybrid cottonwood would be the only thing I can think off.

 

[Lycanthrope]

Optimized Food Plot and Rub Row Design for Your Menoken, ND PropertyBased on your description, the open area is approximately 140 yards long north-south (along the yellow line in the image). I'll assume the field is about 120-150 yards wide east-west (common for such parcels near Menoken; if it's different, scale accordingly). This allows for 4-5 rub rows spaced 30 yards apart, creating 30-yard-wide lanes for food plots—perfect for bow shots (effective range 20-40 yards) while keeping deer funneled close. Rows run north-south for wind protection and deer movement patterns in ND's prairies.The design prioritizes:

• Buck rubs: High-preference species like willows (top rubs + bees) and hybrid poplars (fast growth for rubs/cover).
• Bee support: Early pollen from willows/poplars (catkins March-May).
• Manageability: All species coppice well—cut back every 2-3 years (not annually) with your 60" brush hog on 40hp tractor. They'll regrow 6-12 ft/year, staying under 15-20 ft tall with periodic cuts.
• Seclusion: Fastest-growing hybrid poplars on the road-side row for a quick screen (10-15 ft in 1-2 years).
• Food plots: Annual till/replant in lanes—mix corn/beets for user preference, plus ND-proven attractants like brassicas (radish/turnip for fall draw) and cereal rye (winter hardy). Small, irregular shapes (e.g., V or L) per lane for bowhunting funnels.
• Propagation: Easy hardwood cuttings (free/local sources).
• ND adaptation: All zone 3-4 hardy; plant in moist clay/loam (common in Menoken). Current date (Dec 2025) means collect cuttings now (dormant season) for spring planting.

Key Species Choices

• Road-side row: Hybrid poplars (e.g., 'Northwest' or 'Assiniboine')—fastest growers (10-15 ft/year), provide seclusion, moderate rubs, early pollen. Yes, better than willows for initial height/screen.
• Inner rows: Pussy willow (Salix discolor) and peachleaf willow (Salix amygdaloides)—top for rubs/bees, 6-12 ft regrowth. Mix in quaking aspen suckers for variety/rubs.
• Why not cherries? Moderate rubs but slower regrowth after cuts; stick to these for your goals.

Layout Diagram (Text-Based Representation)Imagine the field as a rectangle (140 yards N-S x 120 yards E-W), road on the east side (adjust if wrong—image suggests road at bottom/south, but line is central). Rows parallel to yellow line, spaced 30 yards apart. Food plots in 30-yard lanes, tilled annually.

[North]
|
| Row 4 (Inner): Pussy Willow + Peachleaf Willow mix (rubs/bees focus)
|
30 yd lane: Food Plot D - Brassicas + Rye (V-shape funnel to west edge)
|
| Row 3: Peachleaf Willow + Quaking Aspen mix (high rubs, bee pollen)
|
30 yd lane: Food Plot C - Beets + Corn (L-shape for bow stand on south end)
|
| Row 2: Pussy Willow + Hybrid Poplar mix (balanced growth/rubs)
|
30 yd lane: Food Plot B - Corn + Brassicas (T-shape to draw from north)
|
| Row 1 (Road-side/East): Hybrid Poplar ('Northwest') (fast screen/cover)
|
30 yd lane: Food Plot A - Beets + Rye (U-shape near road for edge cover)
|
[Road/East] ------------------ [West/Open Field]
|
[South] (Yellow line runs center N-S)

• Scale: Each row ~140 yards long. Plant 3-5 ft spacing within rows (clusters of 5-10 for thickets).
• Total rows: 4 (scalable; add/subtract based on width).
• Food plot shapes: Use V/L/T/U per lane (from Realtree/Mossy Oak bowhunting guides)—funnels deer into kill zones. Each plot ~0.25-0.5 acres (30x140 yards lane = ~1 acre; plant 50-70% for paths/cover).
• Visual alternative: Think stripes: Tree row | Food lane | Tree row | Food lane, etc. Poplars east for road block, willows west for rubs near bedding (assume west is thicker cover from image).

If you upload a marked-up image, I can refine.Planting Instructions

1. Site Prep (Spring 2026):
   • Soil test via NDSU Extension (Burleigh County office in Bismarck)—aim pH 6-7; add lime if needed for clay soils.
   • Till rows 2-3 ft wide, 140 yards long. Improve drainage if wet (Menoken's coteau can hold water).
   • Plant after last frost (~May 15-20 in Menoken).
2. Sourcing & Propagation:
   • Hybrid Poplars: Buy whips/cuttings from Menoken Farm (1107 171st St NE, Menoken—your backyard! $2-3 each) or Lincoln-Oakes Nursery (Bismarck, $1-2/whip). Varieties: 'Northwest' (fast, disease-resistant) or 'Assiniboine' (ND-adapted). Take 12-24" dormant cuttings (now-Dec/Jan); root in water or soil (80-90% success).
   • Willows: Free cuttings from local Missouri/Heart River stands (within 10 miles—e.g., Menoken wetlands). Or buy 'Silver Sands' sandbar willow from Bismarck Plant Materials Center (NRCS). Cut 10-18" dormant stems (95-100% root in moist soil). Pussy/peachleaf from wild or nurseries.
   • Aspen: Suckers/cuttings from local clones (free; 70-80% success).
   • Quantity: 100-150 plants/row (at 3-5 ft spacing).
3. Planting:
   • Stick cuttings 2/3 deep in rows (use rooting hormone for poplars).
   • Water weekly first summer; mulch for weeds.
   • Group in clusters (5-10 plants/10 ft) for bushy rubs.
4. Maintenance:
   • Cutting: Every 2-3 years (late May post-bloom), brush hog to 6-12" stumps. Regrowth hits rub size (1-4" stems) by fall.
   • Weeds/Deer: Fence first year if needed; deer will browse but not kill.
   • Bees: No sprays; these provide March-May pollen jackpot.

Food Plot Suggestions & InstructionsBased on ND-specific sources (NDSU, Mossy Oak, North American Whitetail, Nodak Angler): Focus on cold-hardy, high-protein attractants. Till/replant annually (May for warm-season, Aug for fall). Rotate to prevent disease.

• Plot A (Road-side lane): Beets + Cereal Rye. Beets (user fave; plant May, harvest fall—deer dig roots). Rye (winter cover; seed Aug). U-shape: Wide at north, narrow south for bow funnel.
• Plot B: Corn + Brassicas (radish/turnip/rape). Corn (ND short-season hybrids like Pioneer; plant May). Brassicas (e.g., Northwoods Whitetails Sweat Feast Blend—fall magnet). T-shape: Crossbar at center for multiple shots.
• Plot C: Beets + Corn. Alternate rows for variety. L-shape: Long arm north-south, short east for edge stand.
• Plot D (West lane): Brassicas + Rye. V-shape: Point west to funnel from open field.

Planting Tips:

• Seed sources: Northwoods Whitetails (brassica blends), local co-ops (corn/beets from Runnings in Bismarck).
• Till 6-8" deep; fertilize per soil test (N-P-K for corn/beets).
• Size: 0.25-0.5 acres/plot—small for high deer use in ND's "land of plenty."
• Attract: Plant near rows for cover; add minerals.

This setup will create a buck highway with rubs, bee forage, and bow kills. Total cost: $200-500 for starters (mostly free cuttings). Monitor first year; adjust spacing if needed!

 

[luvcatchingbass]

I'm interested to if this will actually help. Are you going to put signage up as well so they know where the No Rub Zone and Rub Zone are?

 

[Davy Crockett]

Rubbing isn't so bad , they just hit a few and they grow back, wait till march when the deer get hungry and acquire a taste for them.

 

[guywhofishes]

the deer vastly prefer to destroy aromatics (cedars) and willows on our property out west

trembling aspen is #3 I suppose

I'm guessing clumps/pockets would be better (more often attacked) than rows - since they'll probably just attack the "end members" or corners of any tree rows.

Maybe that's an approach that would work - set up sacrificial preferred rub trees as "end caps" on every row of trees you plant. Like the end caps at big box stores where they capture the attention of those moving past aisles.

 

[guywhofishes]

p.s. Anybody who plants hybrid poplars is loopier than a pet coon. Either that, or they just love cutting down gigantic dead useless (piss poor firewood) trees 20 years after planting them.

I see this in Fargo all the time. Somebody blows $5,000-$10,000 getting a massive row of dead hybrids felled/removed and then they plant young hybrid poplars to replace them.

Madness!

 

[KDM]

Plant an apple tree without a cage to protect it as see what happens. By spring the thing will have no bark, branches, or possibly a trunk. Between the rabbits, deer, and gophers I'm amazed anyone outside of town or their immediate yards gets an apple tree to grow.

 

[risingsun]

the deer vastly prefer to destroy aromatics (cedars) and willows on our property out west

trembling aspen is #3 I suppose

I'm guessing clumps/pockets would be better (more often attacked) than rows - since they'll probably just attack the "end members" or corners of any tree rows.

Maybe that's an approach that would work - set up sacrificial preferred rub trees as "end caps" on every row of trees you plant. Like the end caps at big box stores where they capture the attention of those moving past aisles.

Genius at work. Not just a hat rack on top of those shoulders!!!!

 

[KDM]

p.s. Anybody who plants hybrid poplars is loopier than a pet coon. Either that, or they just love cutting down gigantic dead useless (piss poor firewood) trees 20 years after planting them.

I see this in Fargo all the time. Somebody blows $5,000-$10,000 getting a massive row of dead hybrids felled/removed and then they plant young hybrid poplars to replace them.

Madness!

The only good thing about hybrid poplars is to plant them with the express purpose of hinge cutting them to create low browse, a dense packed wind break, to create an impenetrable wall of trees to keep trespassers out, or to funnel deer to where you want them to go. IM humble O of course.

 

[Tymurrey]

i've noticed that a lot of our caragana suckers get hammered by deer rubbing on them too. Not sure if they grow from cuttings but have done well in every area i've planted them. The cedars and junipers get just hammered and would drive me nuts until ehd came and gave the trees a little break. I guess i had to find some good in losing most of the deer in my area.

 

[Lycanthrope]

Plant an apple tree without a cage to protect it as see what happens. By spring the thing will have no bark, branches, or possibly a trunk. Between the rabbits, deer, and gophers I'm amazed anyone outside of town or their immediate yards gets an apple tree to grow.

My apples have been doing surprisingly well so far, but I dont have a lot of deer normally on my property. Im sure as my trees get bigger and theres more cover, they will show up. This year the few deer that are around preferred to nibble my raspberries and sour cherry bushes more than my apples, but that was summer, winter could be totally different.

 

[Lycanthrope]

The only good thing about hybrid poplars is to plant them with the express purpose of hinge cutting them to create low browse, a dense packed wind break, to create an impenetrable wall of trees to keep trespassers out, or to funnel deer to where you want them to go. IM humble O of course.

all the stuff I was thinking about planting would be cut before it gets too big to cut with my brushhog. I wouldnt plant poplar as a permanent tree for sure.

 

[Lycanthrope]

the deer vastly prefer to destroy aromatics (cedars) and willows on our property out west

trembling aspen is #3 I suppose

I'm guessing clumps/pockets would be better (more often attacked) than rows - since they'll probably just attack the "end members" or corners of any tree rows.

Maybe that's an approach that would work - set up sacrificial preferred rub trees as "end caps" on every row of trees you plant. Like the end caps at big box stores where they capture the attention of those moving past aisles.

Might be a good idea to space them out, giving deer room to walk between individual bushes maybe... Even with that done, they might still just hit the ones at the very ends of the rows, who knows.

 

[ktm450]

The deer really beat up my amur maples over any other tree i have planted ( spruce, lilacs, quacking aspen, apple trees) i had planted on the property. For about 5 years i would put a fence around them till they got big enough that the deer leave them alone.. now they are hitting the neighbors trees (caraganas is their tree of preference ) lol. I do still put fences around the individual trees not planted in the tree rows to protect them not wanting to risk loosing 5-7 year old trees.


edit:- i forgot i had golden current planted as well in a hedge. the deer and pheasants loved that, but it spread like a dang weed. the berries that were on them tasted pretty good as well if i got to them b4 the wildlife.

 

[Davy Crockett]

i've noticed that a lot of our caragana suckers get hammered by deer rubbing on them too. Not sure if they grow from cuttings but have done well in every area i've planted them. The cedars and junipers get just hammered and would drive me nuts until ehd came and gave the trees a little break. I guess i had to find some good in losing most of the deer in my area.

I cleared some land and cut trails and right in my way was a caragana bush full of pollinators and the only one on the farm. I drug trees around it and built my road around it and graveled the area. That fall a buck demolished it till the center tree part was on the ground. I forgot to look this fall to see if by chance he claimed it again. Can't say Iv'e saw a scrape used for more than one year but close by but It was the most worked whitetail scrape I remember ever seeing.

We had a bunch of nice wild birch trees out by the crick and when moose moved it they camped out there and would lock their horns in the birch trees and snap them off to eat the brows.

 

[Allen]

Plant an apple tree without a cage to protect it as see what happens. By spring the thing will have no bark, branches, or possibly a trunk. Between the rabbits, deer, and gophers I'm amazed anyone outside of town or their immediate yards gets an apple tree to grow.

In my experience, deer also LOVE cherry trees. I had a young cherry tree one time get shredded by a doe and her fawns. That tree was about 8-9 ft tall and about 4 inches in diameter, by morning it was a pile of tooth picks. I currently have almost 20 cherry trees protected by wire cages. The deer eat any twig that comes through the cage.

I have a fair number of cedars around and they aren't nearly as popular with the deer as my fruit trees.

 

[guywhofishes]

btw, my earlier observations are w regard to bucks destroying trees for fun/sex

predation due to eating is an entirely different matter and I don’t have good advice other than boy do they love arborvitae when winter is tough / yikes