ELECTRIC FENCE?!?

[Lycanthrope]

So I need to build a permanent deer proof electric fence that will enclose a square area, with 2 gates, total length will be about 835 meters. I havent done any fencing so it will be a learning experience. I did put in a gate last year and built an H brace to hold it, so thats not totally new to me. It turned out pretty good. Appreciate any input from people who have experience with fencing, especially electric fences. AI recommended making a 7 wire electric, with 4 hot, but it said a 5 wire with 3 hot could also work. I decided to do the 5 wire for now, I could always add more later...

This is what AI suggested:

Two gates change the corners and the mid-side more than they change T-posts. A corner gate saves one heavy post. A mid-side gate adds two heavy posts and two extra H-braces, because that side is no longer one long pull.

Perimeter still 835 m (2,740 ft), 5-wire, roughly square (~209 m / 685 ft per side). You already have the wire.

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How the two gates sit​

Corner gate
Use the corner post as one gate post. Set a second 8 in post a gate-width away on one side.
That corner still needs bracing in both fence directions. The free gate post also needs an H-brace back down the line so the wires have a real end.

Mid-side gate
Treat it like two dead-ends with a hole in the middle.
Two 8 in posts, gate-width apart. An H-brace on each side of the opening. That 209 m side becomes two shorter pulls. Do not hang this gate on T-posts.

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Updated parts list​

(local: T-posts, wood posts, ground rods — online: the rest)

Posts and braces (local)​

Item	Qty	Why
8 ft T-posts, 1.25–1.33 lb	115–120	~7.5 m / 25 ft spacing. A few fewer than before; wood posts eat a few spots.
8 in treated round, 10 ft	7	4 corners + 1 extra corner-gate post + 2 mid-side gate posts. Set 3–3.5 ft deep.
6–7 in treated round, 8–10 ft (brace posts)	14	2 per corner (8) + 2 extra at the corner-gate end post + 4 at the mid-side gate (H-brace each side).
6–7 in treated, 8 ft (H-brace rails)	12	One rail per H-brace.
Brace wire (9 ga or your slickline)	1 roll	Diagonals in every H.
Crushed rock / concrete mix	as needed	Tamp corners and gate posts hard.

Insulators and wire hardware (order online)​

Item	Qty
T-post pin-lock/claw insulators (sized to your wire)	650
Wood-post screw-in or tube insulators	120
In-line strainers / tensioners	30
Sleeves / wire vises / crimps for your diameter	50
Permanent splices	20
Cutout switches (bottom wires, winter)	2

More strainers because the mid-side gate splits one side into two pulls: think 5 wires × 5 runs (3 full sides + 2 half-sides), plus extras.

Gates (2)​

Item	Qty
Tubular steel farm gates, 12–16 ft	2
Hinge + latch sets	2
Insulated gate handles or spring-gate kits	4 (2 per opening)
Double-insulated underground lead-out cable	50–60 ft
Gate / offset insulators	12

Bury cable under both openings so the fence stays hot when a gate is open.

Power system (unchanged)​

Item	Qty
Speedrite 6000	1
200 W panel (or 2×100 W) + mount	1
Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/20	1
12V 100Ah AGM (better: 2×100Ah)	1–2
Cooler/box for battery only	1
Dry insulated box for energizer + MPPT	1
20–30A battery fuse + 10–15A energizer fuse	1 each
10 AWG solar cable, battery cables, switch	1 kit
Optional 12V timer	1

Grounding and extras​

Item	Qty
6–8 ft galvanized ground rods (local)	5
Clamps + #10/#12 ground wire	5 clamps, 80 ft wire
Lightning diverter	1
Digital fence voltmeter	1
Warning signs	8–10
Flagging / peanut-butter trainers	1 pack

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Corner and gate layout​

Three plain corners
Each gets a full two-way H-brace (corner post + 2 brace posts + 2 rails + 2 diagonals).

Corner with the gate

1. Set the big corner post plumb and deep.
2. Set the second gate post a gate-width down one side.
3. H-brace the corner in the direction that does not have the gate.
4. H-brace the free gate post back down that same side (away from the opening).
5. Hang the gate so it swings into the enclosure if you can.
6. Terminate all 5 wires on both gate posts with strainers. Do not run tension through the gate.

Mid-side gate

1. Set two 8 in posts, plumb, gate-width apart.
2. Build an H-brace on the left, opening facing the gate.
3. Build an H-brace on the right, opening facing the gate.
4. Strain each half-side independently.
5. Bury lead-out under the gateway and jumper the two halves so one Speedrite feeds the whole square.

Those mid-side gate posts take the same load as corners. T-posts will lean.

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Suggested 5-wire (hot–ground–hot–ground–hot)​

Hot – ground – hot – ground – hot:

Wire	Height	Function
1	8–10 in	Hot (winter cutout)
2	20–22 in	Ground
3	34–36 in	Hot
4	48–50 in	Ground
5	66–70 in	Hot

Dry Bismarck summers are why the ground wires are on the fence, not only in the dirt.

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Build order​

1. Square the four corners. Decide which corner gets the gate and which side gets the mid-gate.
2. Set all wood posts and build every H-brace before you drive T-posts.
3. Hang both gates and check swing/clearance.
4. Drive T-posts on a string, skipping the gate openings.
5. Run and tension 5 wires, one pull at a time (you now have 5 pulls, not 4).
6. Install buried cable under both gates and jumper the circuits.
7. Ground rods, then solar/battery box, then Speedrite.
8. Run 24/7 for 2–4 weeks with flags. Then slow-pulse or a night timer if you still want that.

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Cost change vs one gate​

Expect about $250–450 more: extra wood posts, two H-braces, second gate, extra strainers and cable. T-posts stay about the same.

Order insulators and sleeves after you measure the oilfield wire. Kencove for fence hardware, SpeedriteChargers for the 6000, Premier 1 for the digital tester.

 

[Lycanthrope]

I got a good deal on a ton of stainless steel wire that I will be using in this project...

 

[KDM]

Best deer fence I've seen was built out of 8ft t posts and barbed wire. It was built at a 60 degree angle out. Meaning the posts were driven in leaning outward. Deer didn't jump it because they would be jumping an essentially "wider" fence than they wanted. It had 3 wires. I guess a guy could make one of them hot, but the one I saw wasn't electrified. It worked great and didn't cost an arm and a leg either. Good luck with your build.