Gun Builds Being Contemplated

[db-2]

buckhunter:

Got a 264 magnum. Great caliber but maybe a little too much speed to kill clean. But i assume it would slow down at 1000 yards. db

 

[SupressYourself]

 

[svnmag]

22", factory Kimber Montana bbl taper. With the NF atop it should be 7.25# all up, give or take an OZ or 2. 22" is a great plenty out of a 223 and far handier than 26". I've done the 10#+ rifle thing and short of shooting prairie dogs, I prefer lighter and shorter.

Regarding chambering to 223Rem. It's doubtful the rifle will ever see a single round of factory ammo and my dies are 223Rem so that'll be that.

Great post. Thanks.

 

[SDMF]

This is the chronograph I have, I guess I don’t know what you mean by shortening the screens. I want to know the true speed so if I’m im not doing something right I want to know

Regarding shortening the screens, I was talking about the ubiquitous "Crony" chronos that fold in half.

As to the pictured chronograph, it's possible to shorten the distance between the screens if the rifle and the chrono aren't both level. The pictured chrono times the bullet between the sensors. Obviously that time is extremely short, if the rifle and the chrono aren't in the same plane you're shortening the distance between the screens and thereby the bullet spends less time between these screens producing a falsely higher velocity.

Differing light conditions too can change chrono readings. When I used an optical chronograph, I preferred to do my testing in that 1st 30min of light before the sun has actually risen. I liked to shoot from E to W with the rising sun behind me to illuminate the target.

The radar I use now is supposedly not effective over 4K FPS, I don't have anything going that fast, I only know the instructions say it won't work. If I were trying to develop loads going that fast and wanted accurate measurements I'd be looking into magneto speed or a 3-screen Oheler. Or, I'd have some bubble levels and probably something like un-chalked chalk-line string to make sure I was shooting straight through the chrono on the proper plane.

Buddy and I set up 2 fold-in-half Chrony machines in succession of each other. It took a LOT of fiddling to get them to correlate with each other like they should. It was EASY to manipulate them for an improper read once you first got it right. Add a little pitch either way, you shorten the distance between screens and velocity "goes up". Level things back out and add a little yaw increasing the distance between screens by shooting diagonally across them and the velocity goes down.

 

[Jiffy]

Just do it....

https://www.scheels.com/p/magnetosp...VMt5W1ENFv-ph_J7VJ0HGEN-hkI5JEChoCfjIQAvD_BwE

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1016447132?pid=523157

 

[1lessdog]

Just do it....

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1016447132?pid=523157

The Labrader will not register anything faster than 4000 FPS.

 

[bravo]

Whenever I consider myself a “gun guy”, I read a thread like this and realize I don’t know jack since I never got into reloading.

 

[Jiffy]

The Labrader will not register anything faster than 4000 FPS.

That's ok. It works sweet for working up my F-class loads for my 30-30

 

[SupressYourself]

Love my Magnetospeed, but I feel like you have to get it off the barrel so that it doesn't effect harmonics. And ouch, they used to be like $100 cheaper...

 

[db-2]

bravo:

Me too but still hope to start reloading. db