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<blockquote data-quote="Duckslayer100" data-source="post: 256325" data-attributes="member: 1485"><p>BINGO!</p><p></p><p>I've heard often from guys saying "I need it cranked to the max or my dog won't do anything." I've only seen a few dogs that truly needed that level, but it's never all the time. Typically it's to break through some barrier or plateau in training, and then the level can be reduced. </p><p></p><p>Remember, with remote trainers, you're signaling the dog to either do or not do something.</p><p></p><p>Heel training, for instance. When the dog is walking next to you at heel, nothing happens. Then the dog starts to pull away. The basics of this with heeling is to command "heel" and then give a sharp tug on their collar (with a pinch collar or, what I prefer, a Delmar Smith Wonder Lead) to get the dog back by you. Doing this repeatedly helps the dog associate "heel" with the desired interaction. </p><p></p><p>Fast forward a bit and you can get rid of the Wonder Lead of pinch collar and affix the remote trainer. Instead of a sharp tug, you say "heel" and give stimulation. As soon as the dog is next to you at heel, the stimulation stops. It's important this level as at the LOWEST POSSIBLE SETTING to get a response. You don't ever want to "fry" your dog. That's counterproductive, especially early in the process. </p><p></p><p>A dog that is set with the basic cause/effect obedience lessons will figure out quickly that THEY are the ones that can turn the pressure on or off. The pressure goes ON when they're doing something they're not supposed to. You commanded "heel" and the dog goes beyond the set boundaries of what you constitute heel. Pressure is applied, and the dog quickly resumes proper heel. The pressure turns off. </p><p></p><p>For my boys, 3 is plenty. I've had it higher on very brief and specific occasions. Trash breaking is a good one. If you don't want your dog sniffing gopher holes or chasing deer, for instance, I'll quickly max the collar and as soon as the dog sniffs a gopher hole (while hunting) or takes off at some deer, instant pressure. No verbal command or cue, just the stimulation. The dog will associate that pressure with the gophers or deer, and not you. One or two interactions like that and the dogs will quickly ignore undesirable critters (and out west, this is a great way to "snake break" your dogs in a controlled setting).</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Duckslayer100, post: 256325, member: 1485"] BINGO! I've heard often from guys saying "I need it cranked to the max or my dog won't do anything." I've only seen a few dogs that truly needed that level, but it's never all the time. Typically it's to break through some barrier or plateau in training, and then the level can be reduced. Remember, with remote trainers, you're signaling the dog to either do or not do something. Heel training, for instance. When the dog is walking next to you at heel, nothing happens. Then the dog starts to pull away. The basics of this with heeling is to command "heel" and then give a sharp tug on their collar (with a pinch collar or, what I prefer, a Delmar Smith Wonder Lead) to get the dog back by you. Doing this repeatedly helps the dog associate "heel" with the desired interaction. Fast forward a bit and you can get rid of the Wonder Lead of pinch collar and affix the remote trainer. Instead of a sharp tug, you say "heel" and give stimulation. As soon as the dog is next to you at heel, the stimulation stops. It's important this level as at the LOWEST POSSIBLE SETTING to get a response. You don't ever want to "fry" your dog. That's counterproductive, especially early in the process. A dog that is set with the basic cause/effect obedience lessons will figure out quickly that THEY are the ones that can turn the pressure on or off. The pressure goes ON when they're doing something they're not supposed to. You commanded "heel" and the dog goes beyond the set boundaries of what you constitute heel. Pressure is applied, and the dog quickly resumes proper heel. The pressure turns off. For my boys, 3 is plenty. I've had it higher on very brief and specific occasions. Trash breaking is a good one. If you don't want your dog sniffing gopher holes or chasing deer, for instance, I'll quickly max the collar and as soon as the dog sniffs a gopher hole (while hunting) or takes off at some deer, instant pressure. No verbal command or cue, just the stimulation. The dog will associate that pressure with the gophers or deer, and not you. One or two interactions like that and the dogs will quickly ignore undesirable critters (and out west, this is a great way to "snake break" your dogs in a controlled setting). [/QUOTE]
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