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Want to get into bow hunting, but need 32inch draw.
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<blockquote data-quote="pluckem" data-source="post: 127439" data-attributes="member: 843"><p>32" is long. First thing I would do is verify that or get a second opinion at Scheels. If you are truly 32" draw length some things to consider.</p><p></p><p>1.) That draw length will get you speed, but can also lead to unforgiveness . Lets say 29" is the average dl. On the same bow with it set up to 32" the arrow will have the force of the string behind it for an additional 3" of travel. Everything else equal, that will add 20-30 fps to the arrow. The bad side to that is that additional 3" of travel will increase the time the arrow is attached to the string after release. So poor form, bow hand torque, or any movement immediately after the release will have a greater effect on the arrows trajectory. </p><p></p><p>To help counter this, look for a bow with a longer brace height (the distance from the bow grip to the string while at rest). Most manufacturers will have at least one bow with a brace height somewhere between 7" and 8". </p><p></p><p> 2.) Usually shooting a longer draw length than what you should will cause more form and accuracy issues than the other way around. Do you shoot with a release and a d-loop on the string? Usually you can play with the d-loop length and get another 1/4" to 1/2" of draw length if that would give you better form at full draw.</p><p></p><p>3.) Many tall guys with long arms (which I am guessing you might be with 32" dl) prefer a longer axle to axle bow. A longer axle to axle will lesson the string angle at full draw and should help with any nock pinch issues that sometimes come up with steep string angles. </p><p></p><p>4.) Many accuracy issues are caused by bad form, and drawing to much weight for a specific draw cycle can lead to bad form. So make sure you aren't pulling too much weight. If you have to point the bow towards the sky to pull back the string you need to reduce the weight. That DL will give you an advantage in the speed category over most, so IMO I would stay away from the designated "speed bows" of the manufactures. These bows will have more harsh draw cycles and short brace heights (5.5"-6.5"). </p><p></p><p>5.) There are lots of great bow companies out there and I wouldn't put one above the other. You just need to shoot different bows and pick the one that you shoot the best. Bowtech, Hoyt, Mathews, Elite, PSE are probably the most well known around here and can be found at Scheels. Prime, New Breed, Obsession, Xpedition are smaller companies but have bows that can compete or surpass any of the big dogs as well. </p><p></p><p>Like mentioned above watch you tube videos on proper form. If after watching and following those and you still have problems past 20yds, it could be more in the set up of the bow and arrows you are shooting.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="pluckem, post: 127439, member: 843"] 32" is long. First thing I would do is verify that or get a second opinion at Scheels. If you are truly 32" draw length some things to consider. 1.) That draw length will get you speed, but can also lead to unforgiveness . Lets say 29" is the average dl. On the same bow with it set up to 32" the arrow will have the force of the string behind it for an additional 3" of travel. Everything else equal, that will add 20-30 fps to the arrow. The bad side to that is that additional 3" of travel will increase the time the arrow is attached to the string after release. So poor form, bow hand torque, or any movement immediately after the release will have a greater effect on the arrows trajectory. To help counter this, look for a bow with a longer brace height (the distance from the bow grip to the string while at rest). Most manufacturers will have at least one bow with a brace height somewhere between 7" and 8". 2.) Usually shooting a longer draw length than what you should will cause more form and accuracy issues than the other way around. Do you shoot with a release and a d-loop on the string? Usually you can play with the d-loop length and get another 1/4" to 1/2" of draw length if that would give you better form at full draw. 3.) Many tall guys with long arms (which I am guessing you might be with 32" dl) prefer a longer axle to axle bow. A longer axle to axle will lesson the string angle at full draw and should help with any nock pinch issues that sometimes come up with steep string angles. 4.) Many accuracy issues are caused by bad form, and drawing to much weight for a specific draw cycle can lead to bad form. So make sure you aren't pulling too much weight. If you have to point the bow towards the sky to pull back the string you need to reduce the weight. That DL will give you an advantage in the speed category over most, so IMO I would stay away from the designated "speed bows" of the manufactures. These bows will have more harsh draw cycles and short brace heights (5.5"-6.5"). 5.) There are lots of great bow companies out there and I wouldn't put one above the other. You just need to shoot different bows and pick the one that you shoot the best. Bowtech, Hoyt, Mathews, Elite, PSE are probably the most well known around here and can be found at Scheels. Prime, New Breed, Obsession, Xpedition are smaller companies but have bows that can compete or surpass any of the big dogs as well. Like mentioned above watch you tube videos on proper form. If after watching and following those and you still have problems past 20yds, it could be more in the set up of the bow and arrows you are shooting. [/QUOTE]
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