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<blockquote data-quote="Wirehair" data-source="post: 36164" data-attributes="member: 769"><p>Wooden Rod Handles:&nbsp; I build with three pieces of matching wood - handle, reel seat, and foregrip.&nbsp; The wood stock is turned from one piece of wood, enabling me to align the grain.&nbsp; Wood stock - I agree with posts above, there is a lot of wood scraps laying around.&nbsp; As a pharmacist, I was able to get some old oak that had once been used in the pharmacy lab at NDSU.&nbsp; Had to laminate a couple of pieces, but the handles look great once finished&nbsp; I use a skeleton (two-piece) reel seat.&nbsp; I finish the wood with two coats of thin build 2-part epoxy, the same epoxy that most of us have on our guides, etc.&nbsp; I have never claimed that wooden handles provide advantages.&nbsp; I have made mine for friends and family members for special occasions...college graduation (Fighting Sioux) lasered into wood prior to finishing, adding a pheasant feather for someone that loves to upland hunt, etc.&nbsp; With regards to having to protect from light, I have 3 wooden rod handles that have been used for many years and other than normal wear (patina), they look better than new.&nbsp; Regarding building cork handles, using rings (Burl) is not that difficult and does allow some nice custom looks.&nbsp; Sanding of the cork is a little easier if one uses a micro-mesh sanding product such as Abranet.&nbsp; The open weave of the fabric allows the cork dust to filter through.&nbsp; Once I have completed the build and shaping of a cork handle, I use cork seal to preserve.&nbsp; Have found custom rod building to be a fun, but addictive, winter time hobby.&nbsp; Not all that difficult if you are willing to take your time and to learn from mistakes.</p></blockquote><p></p>

[QUOTE="Wirehair, post: 36164, member: 769"] Wooden Rod Handles: I build with three pieces of matching wood - handle, reel seat, and foregrip. The wood stock is turned from one piece of wood, enabling me to align the grain. Wood stock - I agree with posts above, there is a lot of wood scraps laying around. As a pharmacist, I was able to get some old oak that had once been used in the pharmacy lab at NDSU. Had to laminate a couple of pieces, but the handles look great once finished I use a skeleton (two-piece) reel seat. I finish the wood with two coats of thin build 2-part epoxy, the same epoxy that most of us have on our guides, etc. I have never claimed that wooden handles provide advantages. I have made mine for friends and family members for special occasions...college graduation (Fighting Sioux) lasered into wood prior to finishing, adding a pheasant feather for someone that loves to upland hunt, etc. With regards to having to protect from light, I have 3 wooden rod handles that have been used for many years and other than normal wear (patina), they look better than new. Regarding building cork handles, using rings (Burl) is not that difficult and does allow some nice custom looks. Sanding of the cork is a little easier if one uses a micro-mesh sanding product such as Abranet. The open weave of the fabric allows the cork dust to filter through. Once I have completed the build and shaping of a cork handle, I use cork seal to preserve. Have found custom rod building to be a fun, but addictive, winter time hobby. Not all that difficult if you are willing to take your time and to learn from mistakes. [/QUOTE]

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