dirt/field prep for trees?

[Auggie]

Lycan,
The soil pH you have is great. I wouldn't get worried about a low pH unless it was less than 5.5. ideal pH is 6.3 to 7.3 (your good). If you want to lime the soil you should test the pH Buffer of the soil. That number helps with liming determination. That's the pH trapped in soil colloids (Clay/organic matter) and unweather parent material.

Low N and P just shows you will have to apply fertilizer. You will get a release of N if the area is worked. I couldn't tell you how much. Nitrate is short lived under a natural system as the diverse perrennials will suck up any free nitrate readily.

I also wouldn't worry about micro nutrients (in most instances). Your pH is below 7 so things like iron won't precipitate and tie-up. The organic matter is a big source of micro nutrients.

 

[Lycanthrope]

Lycan,
The soil pH you have is great. I wouldn't get worried about a low pH unless it was less than 5.5. ideal pH is 6.3 to 7.3 (your good). If you want to lime the soil you should test the pH Buffer of the soil. That number helps with liming determination. That's the pH trapped in soil colloids (Clay/organic matter) and unweather parent material.

Low N and P just shows you will have to apply fertilizer. You will get a release of N if the area is worked. I couldn't tell you how much. Nitrate is short lived under a natural system as the diverse perrennials will suck up any free nitrate readily.

I also wouldn't worry about micro nutrients (in most instances). Your pH is below 7 so things like iron won't precipitate and tie-up. The organic matter is a big source of micro nutrients.

Ive decided my tree area Im not going to spend the $$$ on organic, I will buy and apply some chemicals there. Where my food plants is I plan to keep organic. I did have them run an additional test to determine boron content and it came back .3ppm which is fairly low I think, recommended is 1ppm or higher from what I found.

 

[Lycanthrope]

Are ATV discs decent for keeping weeds down between tree rows or are they worthless? Instead of going all in on a tractor, was thinking about getting something like this, in budget mode...

 

[NDSportsman]

IMO the small atv discs are worthless. Not enough weight to do much but buff the surface. Maybe if you already have the dirt worked up good they would be OK for keeping weeds and grass down.

 

[Auggie]

I agree with NDSportsman. If you're breaking sod, they're worthless. If it's been worked they can do OK. Tie down a couple cinder blocks to weigh it down so it diggs better. Maybe a pull-type gas tiller would be the way to go? I'd weigh that down as well.

 

[db-2]

I have one like in the picture and put a box on and then a bunch of rocks (a bunch) in box and then drive in circles the right way and with enough turns it does do something. Would be better if it was adjustable.
But in my plots that are now dirt it will work for small (small) weeds and for covering seeds when planted by hand. I believe I paid around 600 for it and in view of the price it is a disappointment. Have a tractor with a rotary tiller on it and that works a lot better but in sod that can also be a disappointment and I remember about 1600 for the rotary tiller. Need a mower to cut grass down besides the rotary tiller. Chisel or plow in sod to begin with.
Between rows I would just focus on mowing to keep grass, weeds down and in time the weeds will be gone. I assume one has plastic down on the row. I have been surprise how well my evergreens grow in dirt that I let go to weeds or whatever will survive.
I feel I have killed more trees with my round up over spraying versus weed problems. db
Both work better if ground is wet.

 

[db-2]

mine
Circle in top of picture came from disk. db

 

[Lycanthrope]

I think this is what I need!

 

[db-2]

Lycan:
Yes, when we sprayed round up and then went in in time with a rotary tiller it just did not work. Needed to first mow the standing dead grass but still then the rotary tiller would not break through the sod to get pure dirt up.
So we had one of those only with a v and not a point on three point. Would still bunch up as draw bar was sticking out but what you show it would not bunch up and bring dirt to top and then the rotary tiller would work. Tried a larger disk like mine with weight behind tractor and still did not work the best.
Either that or a bigger tractor with a chisel plow however that also had a tendency to bunch up. Just takes time to do that first breaking of sod. Takes about two years to get it the way one wants it for the small seeds.
Can not imagine a one bottom behind a horse or ox back in the 1800 breaking sod. db

 

[Lycanthrope]

Ive got someone lined up to 'wishek disc' hopefully this fall still, if the good weather holds. That should bust it up pretty good Im hoping. I should snap some before/after pics and post them I suppose.

 

[Lycanthrope]

Did some subsoiling yesterday where trees are going, rented a small tractor. Claw is supposed to go up to 24 inches deep... 45hp tractor struggled to pull it, but a few passes got the job done.

 

[LBrandt]

:;:thumbsup

 

[Lycanthrope]

Some serious ground breaking happened saturday... Twice over with a 24' wishek did the trick.

Then Allen was nice enough to come out an pulverize some of the clumps so I can plant honeyberry and cherries before the ground freezes. Currently I have a bunch of bushes in grow bags, kinda risky leaving them outside above ground all winter... His rig is sweet, did a great job! Thanks Allen for showing up on short notice. ;:;bowdown

 

[ksmith185]

https://atv-guide.com/atv-accessories/atv-garden-plows/