Bunk Board Replacement

[Tymurrey]

I have a 16 Lund with a bunk trailer and the 13 year old bunks need replacing. The fasteners broke on one bunk and it fell off the bracket this year and scratched the crap out of my hull. I was looking at the ultimate bunk boards for a replacement but was hoping for first hand experience with them on riveted hull boats Or recommendations on replacements.

 

[Rowdie]

I just replaced my bunks 2.5 years ago in the spring during the early stages of pandemic. I used 2 × 6 Green treat and this was for a Ranger 620

 

[Freedom]

Got a 14 ft Lund sitting on two 2x4s with plastic rain gutter covers, slides off nice and easy. Would definitely go the plastic route be it ultimate bunk boards or some redneck engineering

 

[Tymurrey]

My concern is if the plastic boards will be harder on the rivets since they don't have as much cushion as carpet. It wouldn't concern me if I could approach the trailer straight on each time but fishing the river up north I usually have to approach up current and swing the boat onto the bunks. I can't use green treated boards with an aluminum boat from my understanding and it is close to 9' between the support arms for the bunks so i would need something strong to span that distance.

 

[Slappy]

Carpet doesn't stay "cushy" for long on a bunk so I wouldn't worry about that, but seems like you could always add carpet to the Ultimate boards if you wanted to. Might not be a bad idea if you like a little grip on the bunk to keep from sliding back as HDPE is very slick as noted on their website, especially when wet.

Looks like they also recommend the Supreme (aluminum stiffener beneath the HDPE board) for spans over 4 ft.

Have you dissected the old bunks to see if there is a direct replacement or something you could replicate?

You might also contact the Ultimate board manufacturer directly. Some still provide good support if you ask for help.

 

[Tymurrey]

Carpet doesn't stay "cushy" for long on a bunk so I wouldn't worry about that, but seems like you could always add carpet to the Ultimate boards if you wanted to. Might not be a bad idea if you like a little grip on the bunk to keep from sliding back as HDPE is very slick as noted on their website, especially when wet.

Looks like they also recommend the Supreme (aluminum stiffener beneath the HDPE board) for spans over 4 ft.

Have you dissected the old bunks to see if there is a direct replacement or something you could replicate?

You might also contact the Ultimate board manufacturer directly. Some still provide good support if you ask for help.

The bunks currently are 2x6's and i think lund uses cypress but i'm not positive. I picked up some cedar boards to use as a replacements before I heard about the ultimate bunk boards. The guy I talked to used them on his pontoon trailer and liked them but I was hoping for feedback for a riveted boat and if the rivets caught or caused any weird wear patterns. I should call but I have a distrust for companies sometimes as they like to promote their product and it seems like very few companies will actually tell you if their product wouldn't work, but that still may be my best bet to just call them.

 

[bravo]

All the reviews show them causing no problems with rivets, but I have no personal experience. Did a lot of research on them when my last boat needed new ones and would have got them, but ended up getting a good deal on carpeted from pacific trailer.

 

[johnr]

I am in the same predicament, however am willing to pay for someone to just do it for me.
Any place a guy knows of that I can get this done?

 

[Slappy]

The bunks currently are 2x6's and i think lund uses cypress but i'm not positive. I picked up some cedar boards to use as a replacements before I heard about the ultimate bunk boards. The guy I talked to used them on his pontoon trailer and liked them but I was hoping for feedback for a riveted boat and if the rivets caught or caused any weird wear patterns. I should call but I have a distrust for companies sometimes as they like to promote their product and it seems like very few companies will actually tell you if their product wouldn't work, but that still may be my best bet to just call them.

Doesn't happen often, but it's frustrating to hear something could have gone better when I never got a phone call. Agree that most manufacturers aren't helpful, but some of us still take pride in service. At least give them a chance to help you.

 

[Wall-eyes]

Pressure treated Grade A Cypress is what few of my buddies used on their Lund aluminum boat with rivets. I just never had any issues with rollers on all my Lunds. Most of guys have fancy glitter glass boats so need support.

 

[johnr]

I am in the same predicament, however am willing to pay for someone to just do it for me.
Any place a guy knows of that I can get this done?

So anyway this is the year I am going to finally replace the bunks, mrs johnr already ordered the carptet, so I am just needing the boards, of which I have heard conflicting reports. Most say do not use treated wood, to use just pine. My trailer is galvanized if that matters.

Please advise, thank you

 

[MSA]

I used 2x6 green treat (made sure to select pieces with no knots), stainless bolts, and outdoor carpet from menards and attached it with adhesive and stainless staples. did this about 10 years ago, still holding up well.

 

[Tymurrey]

I've always heard that the chemicals in green treated wood react with aluminum. Not sure if it has to be direct contact or if the carpet provides enough of a barrier. I never did get around to replacing mine yet as bad as that is but with kids and other life stuff going on it is a low priority.

 

[Fester]

Could a guy just epoxy coat regular 2x4 and be good vs green treat?

 

[johnr]

I used 2x6 green treat (made sure to select pieces with no knots), stainless bolts, and outdoor carpet from menards and attached it with adhesive and stainless staples. did this about 10 years ago, still holding up well.

Aluminum boat?

 

[risingsun]

I used 2x6 green treat (made sure to select pieces with no knots), stainless bolts, and outdoor carpet from menards and attached it with adhesive and stainless staples. did this about 10 years ago, still holding up well.

Did the same exact thing probably 5 years ago. Aluminum boat no issues.

 

[espringers]

there are so many other options for bunk boards these days that i would be hard pressed to use actual wood and carpet. once you account for wood, glue, carpet, waste of all of the above & time, you might as well order synthetic or pre-coated. most come @ varying lengths to perfectly match your old ones. just my 2 cents.

 

[Fester]

there are so many other options for bunk boards these days that i would be hard pressed to use actual wood and carpet. once you account for wood, glue, carpet, waste of all of the above & time, you might as well order synthetic or pre-coated. most come @ varying lengths to perfectly match your old ones. just my 2 cents.

Your talking about composites? Aren't composites weaker then wood and need additional bracing similar to how a composite deck needs more bracing or you get waves in it? I believe there is one manufacturer that runs an aluminum backing on it but what about the ones that dont? Just curious how that would hold up a big heavy boat?

 

[johnr]

Did the same exact thing probably 5 years ago. Aluminum boat no issues.

So green treat is okay on a galvanized trailer and aluminum boat?

 

[Fester]

So green treat is okay on a galvanized trailer and aluminum boat?

As long as there is no direct contact it should be fine. Galvanic corrosion requires a direct contact between materials. Since carpet is a buffer there should be no issue. Electrolysis requires the metals to be touching to create a charge. Treated lumber contains copper which is where the corosion with dissimilar metals take place. Carpet removes that contact.