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<blockquote data-quote="SDMF" data-source="post: 327411" data-attributes="member: 412">I shoot @ 100yds just enough to get close to &quot;on-target&quot; @ 200yds, that's where my &quot;work&quot; starts.If the stock is a B&amp;C Medalist w/AL bedding block, I'd skim bed it w/JB weld or whatever bedding compound you prefer.&nbsp; I can feel the vibration between AL and steel in both HS and B&amp;C AL block stocks and I don't like it thus the skim bed.Regarding question #2, I assuming you mean the screws that hold the tops of the rings onto the bottom half, or in the case of vertical split, the screws that hold the 2 halves together.&nbsp; And, the answer is, Yes, absolutely they CAN be too tight.&nbsp; I was guilty of this for a very long time.&nbsp; 15-20 in/lb on the ring caps is plenty to keep things in place assuming you don't have the Hubble telescope mounted upon an ultralight hard-kicker.If you over-tighten your rings you could be compressing the main-tube which in turn could be causing the erector-tube inside the scope to be mashed against the bias springs rather than floating upon them.&nbsp; When the erector tube isn't floating on it's support springs you run the risk of imparting a bunch of vibration to the scope.&nbsp; The vibration is inconsistent which manifests as poor accuracy.&nbsp; Another scope/vibration related issue can show up if your very front scope-base screw is too long and contacts the bbl tenon.&nbsp; The screw feels tight, but it's not holding the base down tight, it's just stopped on the bbl threads.&nbsp; It doesn't happen often, but, it can be a bugger to find/figure out.&nbsp; Easiest way is to pull the front base screw, then look @ the bbl threads in the bottom of the hole.&nbsp; If they're mashed, the screw is too long.&nbsp; You can also sharpie the front base screw, run it in to &quot;tight&quot; then back it out again and see if there's a mark on the screw where it touched the threads.&nbsp; If it's too long use a cut-off wheel or a grinder and shorten just a bit. Another symptom of over-tightened scope rings is a scope that won't track properly.&nbsp; You adjust and it won't move, then you adjust again and it finally moves, but, it moves too far and you have to keep making adjustments and &quot;hunt&quot; for your proper zero.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="SDMF, post: 327411, member: 412"] I shoot @ 100yds just enough to get close to "on-target" @ 200yds, that's where my "work" starts. If the stock is a B&C Medalist w/AL bedding block, I'd skim bed it w/JB weld or whatever bedding compound you prefer. I can feel the vibration between AL and steel in both HS and B&C AL block stocks and I don't like it thus the skim bed. Regarding question #2, I assuming you mean the screws that hold the tops of the rings onto the bottom half, or in the case of vertical split, the screws that hold the 2 halves together. And, the answer is, Yes, absolutely they CAN be too tight. I was guilty of this for a very long time. 15-20 in/lb on the ring caps is plenty to keep things in place assuming you don't have the Hubble telescope mounted upon an ultralight hard-kicker. If you over-tighten your rings you could be compressing the main-tube which in turn could be causing the erector-tube inside the scope to be mashed against the bias springs rather than floating upon them. When the erector tube isn't floating on it's support springs you run the risk of imparting a bunch of vibration to the scope. The vibration is inconsistent which manifests as poor accuracy. Another scope/vibration related issue can show up if your very front scope-base screw is too long and contacts the bbl tenon. The screw feels tight, but it's not holding the base down tight, it's just stopped on the bbl threads. It doesn't happen often, but, it can be a bugger to find/figure out. Easiest way is to pull the front base screw, then look @ the bbl threads in the bottom of the hole. If they're mashed, the screw is too long. You can also sharpie the front base screw, run it in to "tight" then back it out again and see if there's a mark on the screw where it touched the threads. If it's too long use a cut-off wheel or a grinder and shorten just a bit. Another symptom of over-tightened scope rings is a scope that won't track properly. You adjust and it won't move, then you adjust again and it finally moves, but, it moves too far and you have to keep making adjustments and "hunt" for your proper zero. [/QUOTE]

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