Crankbait trolling help

DirtyMike

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I have a trollers bible as well as the premium app. If I had to worry about spending $100 on fishing things, I'd have to find a new hobby.
 


guywhofishes

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A horrible case of medial epicondylitis last summer forced me to troll for the first time in a long time and I got lucky and caught quality fish. I LOVE pitching but that injury and/or taking newbs or parents fishing has me thinking I at least should become at least proficient so I have a backup plan.

Are flicker shads probably THE starter crank to consider? I have a lot of shad raps. What size/colors of flickers would be a good starter kit for Devils Lake? (I already have two lead core and two power-pro line counter rods).
 

ccarver80

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For what is worth, I bought 6 okuma 20s and put them on some cabela's e glass 8'0 medium heavy rods in 2003 and they have served me well. I don't fish as much as many but I have never felt the need to upgrade equipment. I think I spent 45-50 bucks per rod and reel combo. I have the trolling bible, in line boards, snap weights, etc... I usually pull reef runners, husy jerks, rouges, long A's and the flicker stuff. Make sure you can go slow early spring and late fall- as slow as 1.0 mph. I'd be willing to take you out on my boat or ride in yours and help get you started.

That would be awesome I see you live in Watford city maybe pretty close!! Maybe one day we can meet at tobacco or were ever you fish?
 

ccarver80

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I have a trollers bible as well as the premium app. If I had to worry about spending $100 on fishing things, I'd have to find a new hobby.

Oh I hear ya! I'd love to drop my money into a lot of different fishing stuff... But with a brand new house... A 1 year old... And 2 newer vehicles ... It's hard to... I have to penny and dime my way in haha got my first boat last year though.
 


BAW

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Save your $100 and spend it on the equipment. That $100 could get you close to 20 cranks if your getting them on sale. You will be able to find enough information on the internet on how deep that crank will go and the more time you spend on the water working with different types of cranks the amount of line that you need to let out will become an old habit.
 

RustyTackleBox

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I totally agree with sub on the tuning thing... KVD super tuning crankbaits

guy, my go to cranks in sakakawea have been the flicker minnows and reef runners, but I have had really good luck on walley divers, storm smash shads, clackin raps, shadow raps, deep tail dancers, and salmos, my tackle box is sickening but most cranks will get the job done some days one or 2 outperform but overall reef runners are probably my favorite, 1 out of 100 reef runners will be tuned out of the box.

I just hang the crank over the side of the boat and tune it until it swims straight at the speed I am going, if I see that I am digging bottom real hard I will usually pull it up and recheck my tune, rocks and trees will take them out of tune. Be sure to use the 4' rule with your rods also, 4' from rod tip to rod tip, so if you have a 8' rod you need a 4' or 12' on that same side
 

ccarver80

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Good video on the Super Tuning, I wonder if a someone couldn't maybe tweak a crank bait a bit when trolling to get the crank to swim further away from the boat?? That might put the crank bait on its side though.
 

RustyTackleBox

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Good video on the Super Tuning, I wonder if a someone couldn't maybe tweak a crank bait a bit when trolling to get the crank to swim further away from the boat?? That might put the crank bait on its side though.

tried it... don't do it... unless you like cutting or untangling lines... plus your bait will not dive as deep

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it's called a blow out
 

ccarver80

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on trolling whats everyones go to method?? Trolling motor? big engine on idle? Kicker motor? I only have a 75hp motor on my boat and a 55lbs minkota up front.... the trolling motor I can get close to 1.9mph but that proably puts a big hurt on my batteries, and my big motor my steering is just... whats it called... pinion and rack?? no hydraulic so when I let go of my steering wheel my engine turns itself and causes a big fuss trying to keep my boat straight.
 


RustyTackleBox

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what does your big motor idle at?
best method is using a kicker motor locked straight for your speed and then using a bow mount trolling motor to steer you

I use a trolling plate on my big motor to get it to go slow enough and idle / just above idle to control my speed and then use the electric trolling motor to steer... FYI when the guy at moritz talks you out of a kicker motor when buying the boat kick him in the nuts (big reason I will be upgrading my boat in the near future)

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if your big motor idles under 2mph you will be fine using that... and if you want / need to go slower than that you can either reverse thrust the electric motor (steering nightmare), trolling plate, or drift socks/buckets (steering issues here too)
 

shorthairsrus

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you guys have to much time on your hands ---- I have had guys fck around with gear all day in my boat and never get anything done including catching fish. The day never goes as planned -goes from nice, to 30mph wind to rain to different wind direction etc etc--- i am going to be running trees one minute and then old shoreline, rippap --- you can put your bible or app way as you cant see in the sunlight away --- they are both for reading on the can --- its blowing 25mph and your fckn around with trying to read your app (i just shake my head); same with tuning get another cbait throw that non tuner in a box -------- get em down and lets do some catching.

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A horrible case of medial epicondylitis last summer forced me to troll for the first time in a long time and I got lucky and caught quality fish. I LOVE pitching but that injury and/or taking newbs or parents fishing has me thinking I at least should become at least proficient so I have a backup plan.

Are flicker shads probably THE starter crank to consider? I have a lot of shad raps. What size/colors of flickers would be a good starter kit for Devils Lake? (I already have two lead core and two power-pro line counter rods).


Flickers are cheap and one can still afford to lose em -- thats why they are the number one on devils lake imo.
 

tikkalover

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I have a 75hp tiller on my Warrior and a 80lb Minkota on the front. Depending on the wind, I troll backwards with the tiller when it isn't to windy and forwards if it is. I like to pull my cranks at 1.5 to 2.5 mph. I can use my electric to pull them at 2.2 if I want, but like you say it uses batteries up pretty quick.
 

ccarver80

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Rusty: do I wanna stay under 2mph all year long?? My one buddy swears he's 2mph+ at fort peck in the summer.... If it's 2mph and below I'll just use my trolling motor and simplify it unless it's super windy.

Short: totally agree... When I'm on the water the last thing I hate is messing with gear and not having a line in the water... I hate getting snags and having to retie every thing !!
 

RustyTackleBox

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usually as slow as I will pull them is 1.5 and I go as fast as 3.5-4 (the faster you go the better you have to tune the crank)
 


tikkalover

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Up at LOW this late summer/early fall we were pulling at 3.5mph, now this is in one of those bigger charter boats with an inboard motor and 4 down riggers on the back. They would run up to a spot and drift with the 10 to 20 mph wind, and idle the motor and use it to steer the boat, or if the breeze went down they would just leave it in gear at idle speed. All those guys used were Flicker Shads
 

Norske

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Don't overthink this until you get some experience trolling. An earlier reply has the right idea. Let out line until the lure hits bottom, then take in some line. Simple.
Start with relatively clean bottoms, even fairly shallow ones. As for speed, let out at least 6' of line and drag the lure beside the boat. When the lure wobbles correctly, that's your speed, and you can let out enough line to get down to the fish. It's not rocket science, but pro fishermen have to sell books or software to pay their mortgages.
If you're a successful bait fisherman, spend most of your time with that, devote some time to learning new-to-you techniques. Have fun on the water!
 
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Davey Crockett

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Don't overthink this until you get some experience trolling. An earlier reply has the right idea. Let out line until the lure hits bottom, then take in some line. Simple.
Start with relatively clean bottoms, even fairly shallow ones. As for speed, let out at least 6' of line and drag the lure beside the boat. When the lure wobbles correctly, that's your speed, and you can let out enough line to get down to the fish. It's not rocket science, but pro fishermen have to sell books or software to pay their mortgages.
If you're a successful bait fisherman, spend most of your time with that, devote some time to learning new-to-you techniques. Have fun on the water!



This is what I think too. I can usually make a long fast rod sweep and tag bottom when trolling with a crank , Just the opposite with a bottom bouncer.
 

ccarver80

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Thanks for the insight everyone! You guys rock! I'll probably end up like someone said stick with what I know and slowly learn this new habbit which will probably include tying a crank to my 6'6" ugly stick gx2 and going till I tag bottom and reel up a little and see what happens while I have my bottom bouncer with live bait on the other side of the boat.
 

NodakBuckeye

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The dive curves really shine when you are wanting to troll just above suspended fish. I have a 75 main and 55 lb thrust old n busted cable drive minnkota. 2 5 gallon buckets with about 7 .5" holes, one each side and tied to your forward cleats so they ride about even/ just aft of your console will get you down to 1mph and steering is pretty easy. I only go that slow when the water is cold.

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That would be awesome I see you live in Watford city maybe pretty close!! Maybe one day we can meet at tobacco or were ever you fish?

Yep, sounds good.
 


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