Fluoro or Mono Leader?

[MicLee]

When pitching jigs I run Suffix 832 or Power Pro for my main line, then tie on a 3 to 6 foot fluoro leader. I heard a podcast today suggest using a mono leader instead of a fluoro leader to give it a more whispy effect. Fluoro is abrasion resistant but I would say that is not terribly needed for Sakakawea which is what I fish the most.

Any opinions on one or the other? What's your go to(s)? TIA

 

[sweeney]

ditch the braid for pitching jigs switch to sufix elite mono in 6-8lb test.

 

[wslayer]

Translucent spiderwire, done deal for me.

 

[guywhofishes]

Translucent spiderwire, done deal for me.

wuuuut???

 

[Slappy]

Direct tie to 8 lb moss green power pro

 

[Sum1]

I use flouro for the invisi factor. Flouro sinks and this could add to a faster fall rate than mono. Mono could slow the fall a hair maybe enticing more bites in cooler water temps

 

[svnmag]

4/15 or 6/20 camouflaged if/as necessary with a Sharpie tied direct or to speed clip.

 

[KDM]

2/10 PP with an 8 lb floro leader. If you get snagged, the floro will break, leaving your mainline intact. This is for jigging with an 1/8th oz jig or for casting a shallow running crank. Gators will cut you off at the hit oftentimes, but most other fish, you're good to go. Take it with a grain of salt as this is just what works for me, where I fish.

 

[Wirehair]

I do much the same as KDM. 2/10 PP and 6-8# fluoro leader with a small barrel swivel connecting the two. Works for me.

 

[svnmag]

If pike are common/likely I go "direct" tie to home rolled wire or clip to wire to clip for cranks. Sounds like a lot a shit but not IMHO. I do the one clip deal on bait casting when the lure and attachment should not be an issue to committed quarry of appropriate size. The "two clip deal" is reserved for spin tackle.

This "new" braid allows for extreme spool preservation like a fly reel. I remember precisely when it wasn't perfectly round and was hit or miss on spinning tackle.

It's also good to have dedicated "bait rods" and "plastic rods" incorporating a bbl swivel. On a dedicated bait rod the slip weight SHOULD be above the swivel or benefit of free line is lost.
Sometimes "things" happen and improvasation/adapting is necessary. This shit can be like a Jenga Puzzle and becomes easier when motivated to preserve spool depth.

Just cut back the leader to the swivel: The "first" leader should be 15% of rod length?...

As clipping occurs and casting becomes more "normal" you figure out the comfortable amount of "tip distance".

I hope this helps someone.

That is all,

 

[svnmag]

Forgot to say^^^^Palomar Knots.

The Palomar is for braid; the Trilene is for all other fresh water situations with stretchy bullshit.

The Palomar also works for stretchy bullshit and maybe as hard to go through the eye. I've found it almost as hard passing the mainline through the eye twice as passing the loop. Your experience may vary...

Also, most other fishing knots are bullshit and they're many ways to use only the Trilene and Palomar.

 

[wslayer]

wuuuut???

Seriously , I use to use flouro previously tied at the end. I have noticed no difference in hits tying direct to 6# spider.
Liked the Suffix but had alot of wind knots for some reason, don't get it with the Spiderwire

 

[shorthairsrus]

what knot for casting --- this weekend i litterly tore my thumb up on the not ---- more floro or a decent knot and no option to turn up the cast control.

 

[VDAWG]

I do much the same as KDM. 2/10 PP and 6-8# fluoro leader with a small barrel swivel connecting the two. Works for me.

I think I need to start going with a small barrel swivel to connect the two. The alberto knot seems to hold but it's def. always the weak spot if I ever do break it off and it's a PITA to tie.

 

[MicLee]

I think I need to start going with a small barrel swivel to connect the two. The alberto knot seems to hold but it's def. always the weak spot if I ever do break it off and it's a PITA to tie.

Could try a heavier leader.

 

[Slappy]

Still wondering why the desire to bother with the leader with all the added headaches.

I run leaders on all my ice lines but feel it's worth it when things are moving a lot slower. I do a lot of pitching and never felt like direct tying hindered anything.

 

[ndfinfan]

I use both fluoro and mono leader with the PP braid. Haven't really noticed more fish on one set up vs. the other? I do believe as was stated above, mono drops little slower - so depending on presentation/method...mono might be better option for leader.

 

[Freedom]

Direct or steel. Caught plenty of walleye pike fishing. Maybe some fluoro for slip bobbers

 

[svnmag]

One more deal for the dedicated bait rod and Palomar (100% knot strength): Install the slip weight/bead on the main line; attach bbl swivel; cut leader to desired length; tie Palomar with long assed tag end and reverse. If not done correctly you'll be in a situation of looping over the reel.

One more one more thing: With the above; weights can be upsized for better casting distance. The leader length becomes the variable and (sorry) it's a "mostly" a bank concept. I much prefer the no roll over the egg: Weight, bead, knot, swivel, knot, leader, knot, "bait": Again; I hope this helps.

That is all.

 

[KDM]

Still wondering why the desire to bother with the leader with all the added headaches.

I run leaders on all my ice lines but feel it's worth it when things are moving a lot slower. I do a lot of pitching and never felt like direct tying hindered anything.

I like the abrasion resistance of floro over straight tying to pp. The rocks where I fish chaff and nick the pp making it a fuzzy mess, especially the knot. IMO, floro is much more resistant to that and so I think I have to retie much less. It could be just an aesthetic thing and a fuzzy knot isn't weakened, but I just don't like the look of a frayed knot. Just a greybeards little quirks I guess.