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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Duckslayer100" data-source="post: 320761" data-attributes="member: 1485">I used to bowfish a TON in high school. That's how I started honing my instinctive shooting. But it's a lot different (to me, anyway) shooting at a fish in the water inside 20 feet from a boat (usually down/away from you, and then having to compensate for refraction), and hitting a target horizontal to you and 20-30 yards away. I'm sure the practice I got bowfishing has helped speed this process a long, but there's still a steep learning curve. My next step is to get a quiver of flu-flus and judo points and tromp the woods this fall for squirrels and rabbits. I think if I can sharpen my skills on those teeny things, a deer may seem a lot easier to tackle. I hear folks talking about spine. To put it plainly, I have no clue what spine or specs these arrows are. Six of them are plain, silver aluminum arrows with fixed field tips. The rest are either carbon or fiberglass. Clearly they're a lot lighter, and shoot different than the aluminum. They also have a different style of knock that tends to fall off the serving easily. I'd like to swap them out, but I'm afraid of wrecking arrows attempting to get better knocks on. The bow I'm shooting is a 62" Ben Pearson Cougar. It's 45 pounds at 28" draw. When I shoot compound I'm a 28 inch draw length, but I can tell I probably shoot shorter with the recurve as my anchor point feels a bit further ahead. If I try resetting or drawing longer, my arrows go all over the place. So I'm committing myself to the same anchor point and building that sight picture/muscle memory others have talked about. One thing I'm noticing is I feel very consistent on my draw arm. It's my holding arm that I have to work on. It has a tendency to hold down and left. But if I really focus on it, I can shorten up that sight window (i.e. see less of the arrow shaft) and tend to have a much more consistent and accurate shot.</blockquote>

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