Learning to weld..er trying to

KDM

Founding Member
Founding Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2015
Posts
10,082
Likes
3,447
Points
848
Location
Valley City
OK boys, I bought a mig welder, a metal chop saw, and a nutball idea that I want to learn to weld or at least stick metal together. I made a dozen or so welds on some 1.5 inch square tubing that looks about an 1/8th of an inch thick and they look like a gutpile rolled in mud and then driven over by a truck a couple dozen times. Now I read the manual on welder set up and all that so now I think I'm down to simple stick time and futzing with the machine when I change metals. Using .6mm wire right now and have .8mm wire as well. Are there any suggestions, tips, and other experiences you guys have that could help an old greybeard trying to learn new tricks? I realize this is an immense subject, but looking for ultimate rookie level info. Thanks in advance.
 


risingsun

Founding Member
Founding Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Posts
2,563
Likes
1,226
Points
523
First thing is to make sure your wire speed is not set too fast until you get your distance, steadiness, and bead down. Practice practice is the only way to learn. But you will get the hang of it fairly easy I am sure. And as you practice you will get your heat settings, wire speed for different metal figured out along the way.
 

D-Racer

Founding Member
Founding Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2015
Posts
200
Likes
92
Points
175
Location
Central ND
Optics..spend the money for a good helmet (ask me how I know).....cleanliness, make sure the metal is prepped. Sound...think about bacon frying and as the above, practice.
 

guywhofishes

Founding Member
Founding Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2015
Posts
30,353
Likes
9,330
Points
1,133
Location
Faaargo, ND
I took a welding class 30 yrs ago when stick welding was still the popular method but am curious how MIG is different

so... sorry for using AI - couldn't help myself

Here are practical, beginner-friendly tips for learning **MIG welding** (also called GMAW). It's one of the easiest welding processes to pick up because it's semi-automatic, forgiving on thin-to-medium metal, and great for DIY, auto repair, or fabrication projects.

### 1. Prioritize Safety First (Non-Negotiable)
Welding involves intense UV light, sparks, heat, fumes, and electricity—don't skip this.
- Wear a **proper auto-darkening welding helmet** (shade 10-13 recommended for MIG), flame-resistant long-sleeve jacket or leather apron, heavy-duty welding gloves, safety glasses under the helmet, cuffless pants, and leather boots.
- Use a respirator or ensure good ventilation/fume extraction to avoid breathing harmful fumes.
- Keep a fire extinguisher nearby, clear flammables from the area, and use welding blankets to protect surroundings. Never weld near water or in wet conditions.
- Secure your gas cylinder upright and chained.

Start every session by reading your machine's manual.

### 2. Choose the Right Beginner Setup
- **Welder**: Look for a 110V/120V or dual-voltage machine (140-200 amps) like the Lincoln Electric Easy MIG 140, Hobart Handler 140, or YesWelder models. These are affordable, portable, and sufficient for mild steel up to about 1/4" thick. Many come "ready-to-weld" with wire.
- **Wire**: Start with 0.030" or 0.035" ER70S-6 solid wire for mild steel (versatile and forgiving). For outdoor/no-gas setups, flux-cored wire works but produces more spatter.
- **Gas**: Use a 75% Argon / 25% CO2 mix (C25 or "MIG mix") for clean welds on mild steel. Flow rate is typically 15-25 CFH—check your regulator.
- **Other essentials**: Good ground clamp, wire brush/grinder for cleaning, scrap metal for practice, and a stable welding table or stands.

Many machines have a settings chart inside the door—use it as your starting point.

### 3. Prepare Your Metal and Workspace
Clean metal is critical for MIG—dirty surfaces cause porosity, poor fusion, or spatter.
- Remove rust, paint, oil, or mill scale with a grinder, wire wheel, or flap disc. Wipe with acetone if needed.
- Ensure good fit-up (pieces clamped tightly with minimal gaps).
- Attach the ground clamp close to the weld area on clean metal for strong arc stability.

### 4. Basic Machine Setup
- **Voltage and Wire Feed Speed (WFS)**: These are your two main controls. Voltage controls arc length/heat; WFS controls how fast wire feeds (and thus amperage/penetration). Start with the chart on your machine for your metal thickness and wire size, then fine-tune on scrap.
- Too much voltage: Arc too long, spattery, flat/weak bead.
- Too little: Short arc, stuttering, lack of penetration.
- Test on scrap similar to your project. Listen for a steady "frying bacon" or "hiss" sound—not popping or roaring.
- **Gas Flow**: Set to recommended rate; too low = porosity (holes in weld); too high = turbulence and poor coverage.
- **Stickout**: Keep the wire extending 3/8" (about 1/4" to 1/2") from the contact tip. Too long reduces heat and gas shielding.

### 5. Core Technique: The Three Keys
Focus on these for consistent results:
- **Gun Angle (Travel Angle)**: Push the gun 10-15° forward in the direction of travel (forehand/push technique). This gives better gas coverage, flatter beads, and less penetration. Pull (backhand) for deeper penetration if needed. For fillets (T-joints), aim ~45° between pieces.
- **Stickout**: Maintain consistent 3/8" distance.
- **Travel Speed**: Move at a steady pace so the weld puddle stays about 1/4"-3/8" wide and follows the wire. Too fast = narrow, weak bead with poor fusion. Too slow = oversized bead, burn-through, or excessive heat/distortion. Practice "dry runs" (no trigger) to build muscle memory.

Use a two-handed grip, brace your arms/wrists on the table or workpiece for smooth, controlled movement. Keep the gun perpendicular to the joint where possible (work angle).

### 6. Practice Drills to Build Skills
- Start on flat scrap (1/16" to 1/8" mild steel sheet). Lay straight "stringer" beads (no weaving needed for basic MIG).
- Practice tacks, then butt joints, lap joints, and T-joints (fillets).
- Cut metal with an angle grinder or plasma cutter for clean edges.
- Common progression: Beads on plate → simple joints → small projects.

It often takes just a couple hours of focused practice to get decent-looking beads.

### 7. Common Beginner Mistakes and Fixes
- **Not cleaning metal** → Porosity or weak welds. Fix: Always grind/wire brush.
- **Wrong settings** → Test on scrap; adjust voltage/WFS incrementally.
- **Inconsistent speed/stickout/angle** → Uneven beads. Brace yourself and practice motion.
- **Long stickout or poor gas** → Spatter, oxidation. Keep short and check for drafts.
- **Bad ground** → Unstable arc. Clamp close and on clean metal.
- **Trying complex joints too soon** → Master flat/horizontal first before vertical or overhead.

Watch for a nice, slightly convex bead with good tie-in at the toes (edges). If it looks like a stack of dimes or has undercut, tweak technique/settings.

### 8. Recommended Starter Projects
- Welding cart or stand (practical and helps organize your setup).
- Small scrap box or tool tray.
- Fire pit ring, plant stand, or simple brackets.
- Metal signs or decorative items from cutouts/nuts/bolts.

These build confidence without high stakes.

### Extra Advice
- Watch high-quality YouTube tutorials (search for Miller, Weld.com, or TimWelds MIG basics) showing real-time puddle control and troubleshooting.
- Join online communities like r/Welding on Reddit for feedback on your photos/videos.
- Take a local community college or vocational class if possible—hands-on feedback accelerates learning.
- MIG is forgiving, but consistency comes from repetition. Weld a lot of scrap before your "real" project.

Start small, stay safe, and have fun—your first good-looking weld will feel great. If you have a specific machine, material, or project in mind, give more details for tailored advice!
 

riverview

Founding Member
Founding Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2015
Posts
3,670
Likes
2,525
Points
673
every wire feed welder should have the settings for the thickness of metal your welding printed on the lid you flip up to install wire.
 


Davy Crockett

Founding Member
Founding Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2015
Posts
15,642
Likes
2,918
Points
808
Location
Boondocks
Are you using flux core wire ? I don't like welding with that stuff but it is nice for out in the wind. Also mine has a lug for reverse polarity , I forget what I was welding or what wire I was using but I was having a heck of a time so I reversed the polarity and it welded nice. only other advice I have is don't get in a hurry with the smaller welders , mine is 135 amp and I really have to take it slow.
 

KDM

Founding Member
Founding Member
Thread starter
Joined
Apr 20, 2015
Posts
10,082
Likes
3,447
Points
848
Location
Valley City
Optics..spend the money for a good helmet (ask me how I know).....cleanliness, make sure the metal is prepped. Sound...think about bacon frying and as the above, practice.
Got a good miller digital helmet with the wide screen. I like it, but I have trouble seeing the joint. It's at the brightest setting so I think I will be adding a light to the helmet with velcro or something to brighten up the joint. Completely missed the joint on one weld. I laughed at that one.

Not using flux core or anything other than the wire I have. I don't even know how to use what I have properly yet.

Welder is 120, not a 220. Wanted to be able to take it around the yard without having to buy 100's of ft of heavier extension cords. I don't see me welding even 1/4 inch plate. I don't have any need for that kind of strength.

Thanks Fellas!
 
Last edited:

Allen

Founding Member
Founding Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2015
Posts
11,733
Likes
3,201
Points
883
Location
Lincoln, kinda...
I would recommend searching Youtube for videos specific to your brand of welder. That should be a good first place to find some tips. After that, practice, practice, practice.
 

Recent Posts

Friends of NDA

Top Posters of the Month

  • This month: 4
  • This month: 3
  • This month: 3
  • This month: 3
  • This month: 2
  • This month: 2
  • This month: 2
  • This month: 2
  • This month: 2
  • This month: 1
Top Bottom