Spray foam on steel??

[KDM]

Thinking of spray foaming the steel roof of my deer blinds. They felt real close to sitting in the fridge this past late season. Any advice, experiences, opinions, bitches, gripes, complaints, thoughts, feelings, emotional support suggestions in the peanut gallery. Thanks Fellas!

 

[bucksnbears]

It'll work fine . Make sure the metal is dust free, warm and wear clothing that you can toss when done.

 

[Rowdie]

They spray foam on the inside of Zackshacks...NO?

 

[wslayer]

I think you would really like it. Cuts down on wind and noise also. Had my 6×12 ice house I built (sheet steel) sprayed.

 

[Fester]

I have heard to make sure the surface is warm when spraying. Cold and or frost it can detach later on.

 

[NG3067]

Good idea, just don’t use a gas heater to heat the steel, I’ve heard the gases could cause an explosion.

 

[grantfurness]

It works great. Do it when the weather is warm & low humidity

 

[lunkerslayer]

You would still be better off using a closed cell blue board and use the foam to fill in cracks. Use a special type of glue to adhere the blue board to the steel and on the seams.

 

[bucksnbears]

You would still be better off using a closed cell blue board and use the foam to fill in cracks. Use a special type of glue to adhere the blue board to the steel and on the seams.

No...no he wouldnt.

 

[Eatsleeptrap]

Plenty of skid shack brands are metal framed and covered in tin, then spray foamed on the inside. This gets heated, 6x10, with the middle Heat Hog on low, and you have to shut it off from time to time. I think it takes someone with some skill to get it that thin.

 

[KDM]

Thanks guys. Been watching youtube vids and trying to get the good, bad, and ugly on spray foams. Costs, siding repair issues, and possible moisture getting under the foam through gaps seem to be the major downsides. Vapor barrier and additional structural rigidity appear to be the major upsides along with the ease of application. Still up in the air how I want to do this.

 

[Petras]

As long as you go with closed cell you can get rigidity, and vapor barrier with less thickness.

Substrate needs to be 60 degrees minimum before you spray, ESPECIALLY if you go with a DIY kit like they sell at menards... I personally would go at least 70..... Reason for the higher importance on the temps with DIY kits is that they are not heated, so if it's cooler out or cooler substrate temp, that lessens the chemical reaction which means you get less expansion....
Spray trailers have drum heaters that heat the chemicals individually, and a proportioner with heated hoses that help keep the temp up on the chemical all the way out to the spray gun..

Closed cell is great for max insulation and rigidity with less thickness. If you want sound deadening effects, Open cell is your huckleberry. Only problem with open sell is it doesn't insulate as well as closed cell, and takes at least 2x as thick of a layer to make the same vapor barrier as closed cell.

 

[Shockwave]

I was also looking a spray foaming the grain bin we turned into a hunting blind. I might just frame the inside, insulate it, and use some kind of rubber to close it all up.

 

[guywhofishes]

Spraying overhead with kits is not a trivial pursuit.

Full coverage with foam might be wasted if the rest of the blind isn’t tight/insulated

Consider rockwool batting between rafters, then covering that with 1/4 plywood.

1/4” luan or strand board alone, sans insulation, will make a tremendous difference versus bare steel.

Got pics of ceiling?