Table Refinishing Help?

[Bed Wetter]

Refinishing an oak table. Stripped old stain, wiped with alcohol. Will sand (VERY lightly because it's veneer) tomorrow. Want to stain it really dark and seal it. It's going to see lots of food and traffic.

Recommendations for stain type and application method?
Recommendations for sealer? Polyurethane seems easy but doesn't repair easily if you have a scratch.

Thanks

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[NDwalleyes]

Whatever you do, don't use the stain/poly one coat products that are out there....

Now, I've had good luck with minwax oil based stains but I think any reputable brand will do.

As for finishes, I generally use 3-4 coats of CLEAR oil based poly. The clearer a finish, the harder it will cure, so clear is harder than satin....

There is an argument as to which is harder, oil based or water based finishes. A water based finish is made of 30-40% solids and oil based is 45-50% solids....so in theory oil based should be harder.

A harder finish isn't always better either...to me the secret is to take the time to apply 4 coats of clear and then let the surface dry for several days before putting it into use.

Some guys say to stay with the same product line/brand for oil and finish but I've never had a problem.

 

[fj40]

thats a damned pretty table.

 

[PrairieGhost]

I have used Minwax stains and urethanes for years. On nice wood I like to hand rub Tung oil. For durability spar urethane.

 

[Bed Wetter]

I'm concerned about the kiddos putting ring marks in oiled wood. Thoughts?

 

[BDub]

Minwax poly. Give it a month to cure and never look back.
While you are at it make sure to finish all edges including the bottom ofthe table.

 

[NDwalleyes]

I'm concerned about the kiddos putting ring marks in oiled wood. Thoughts?

Absolutely. I've never worked with tongue oil, I know it looks nice but can't speak as to it's water resistance and durability.

Polyurethane is simple and fairly bulletproof.

 

[PrairieGhost]

About six layers of Tung is very durable, but like I said if it's durability you want go to Minwax Spar urethane. It's a marine grade urethane.

 

[LBrandt]

Minwax stain and fast dry poly by minwax. The poly is made to use on floors so is real hard finish. Light coats and sand with 220 sand paper between coats, just enough to knock down roughness. More coats the harder the finish. After last coat finish with 400 grit sand paper or steel wool. Unless you tape dance on it the finish will last for ever and light scratches will buff out and just give another light coat of poly. The trick is Light coats and plenty of them.

 

[ORCUS DEMENS]

I have done a couple pieces of furniture. I agree with the other posters on minwax oil based stain and clear polyurethane finish. The only other advice I can give you is test the stains first. If you have similar scraps of the wood use them if not the bottom of the table where it won't be seen. I found blending different stains sometimes created just the right shades. If you are not that choosy, pick a color and go to town. Keep the work area as dust free as possible, and invest in a good china bristle brush to apply polyurethane.

 

[Kasey]

First coat with "old masters"(brand) sanding sealer, sand lightly 20 grit abrasive, vacuum with soft attachment and/or tack cloth , top coat minwax polyurethane. I like satin.

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320 grit

 

[SDMF]

Watch out for slivers if you start licking on the tongue oil.

 

[fj40]

You stain it yet? Got any pics if you did?

 

[Bed Wetter]

You stain it yet? Got any pics if you did?

This table was actually my wife's project. We don't always work well together because she wants it done and I want it done right. I provided input and helped with some of the details. She ultimately stained it with Minwax "Ebony." Disappointed that it wasn't as dark as she wanted, she decided to coat it with a poly/stain combo, even though I warned her that would make it blotchy and uneven. I'm sure it'll turn out ok but full potential of the table likely will not be realized.

 

[Allen]

Yeah, the poly-stain combos I have tried have all sucked. I went back later on and applied several (6-7) thin coats of poly. That helped a lot!

Tongue oil is great, but it does require a lot of extra labor and coats. I did a couple of bar stools a few years ago with tongue oil and still love how they look.

I use steel wool in between coats, but you have to be careful using steel wool. It won't take but one or two strands of steel stuck in your finish to piss you off. You have to absolutely clean the finish of steel wool strands in between coats to ensure a good finish.

 

[dblkluk]

About six layers of Tung is very durable, but like I said if it's durability you want go to Minwax Spar urethane. It's a marine grade urethane.

Not even close to a true "marine grade" urethane. Minwax is the Bayliner of the finishing products.