Who has tackled their electrical mess?

[Duckslayer100]

I'm thinking of tackling the mess under my console. There are wires there that I know don't do anything, and I'd really like to get things less crazy looking.

Anyone attempted this? Any tricks or advice? I really want to install a USB charger, so by figuring out what's useless, I should be able to open up a port on my fuse panel and maybe even a switch on my controls.

 

[eyexer]

all you can do is get under there and start looking around. my fuse panel was really getting corroded and things were a mess so I bought a new one off ebay and am going to replace it.

 

[TheWalleye]

I'm thinking of tackling the mess under my console. There are wires there that I know don't do anything, and I'd really like to get things less crazy looking.

Anyone attempted this? Any tricks or advice? I really want to install a USB charger, so by figuring out what's useless, I should be able to open up a port on my fuse panel and maybe even a switch on my controls.

Its all pretty simple wiring, just can look really overwhelming at first. I've never wired a boat of any kind but have done plenty of low voltage 12v stuff.

 

[Duckslayer100]

Yeah that makes sense. I suspect if I start tracing and labeling, I'll get things figured out. I know there are at least six wires from the old motor that go to nothing. Finding those would be nice.

The hard part is just the location. On your back with hands crammed up inside, a light in your teeth...too bad there wasn't some easy access door built into these things!

 

[TheWalleye]

The hard part is just the location. On your back with hands crammed up inside, a light in your teeth...too bad there wasn't some easy access door built into these things!

That can be said for a lot of things.

 

[Duckslayer100]

So if I run my USB to the fuze box, I don't need to run a wire all the way to the battery, right?

 

[TheWalleye]

Nope, checking for a grounding bar too and you may not have to run the negative to far either.

 

[Duckslayer100]

Ok. I think I figured out what I need to do. Run positive from the fuze panel to the switch and the switch to the USB. Then run the negative from the USB to the fuze panel. I believe I saw where a bunch of grounds run there, so I should be able to just tie in.

Think that'll work?

 

[TheWalleye]

Sounds right to me, i'd probably try it on something you don't care about before you go plugging in your phone or anything expensive. I have a little USB fan i use to test all my crap.

 

[Duckslayer100]

Sounds right to me, i'd probably try it on something you don't care about before you go plugging in your phone or anything expensive. I have a little USB fan i use to test all my crap.

Good advice. I have a beat to hell iPhone that will get the first charge.

 

[Feildhunter701]

Buy the good heat shrink crips from the auto parts store.

 

[SDMF]

The easy thing to do would be to run some 6-8ga wire from the battery to a new fuse block. Wire in a master power switch for the new fuse block while you're at it. No need to figure out what wires you can or can't tie into. Leave the factory wiring in place along with enough extra spots on the new fuse block to make electrical woes in the old wiring an easy fix.

 

[TheWalleye]

The easy thing to do would be to run some 6-8ga wire from the battery to a new fuse block. Wire in a master power switch for the new fuse block while you're at it. No need to figure out what wires you can or can't tie into. Leave the factory wiring in place along with enough extra spots on the new fuse block to make electrical woes in the old wiring an easy fix.

I think in a lot of cases this is just easier too.

 

[Duckslayer100]

The easy thing to do would be to run some 6-8ga wire from the battery to a new fuse block. Wire in a master power switch for the new fuse block while you're at it. No need to figure out what wires you can or can't tie into. Leave the factory wiring in place along with enough extra spots on the new fuse block to make electrical woes in the old wiring an easy fix.

Hmmm...new fuse box with master switch. I LIKE that! Do they make marine fuse boxes or are they all run-of-the-mill varieties?

I'm not sure how much more I'll need to add to my boat, but that's not a bad idea for future project possibilities.

 

[TheWalleye]

Hmmm...new fuse box with master switch. I LIKE that! Do they make marine fuse boxes or are they all run-of-the-mill varieties?

They sell marine grade fuse boxes, amazon is the most economical places i've seen.

 

[SDMF]

Another upside to a new fuse box is getting rid of inline fuses.

 

[Duckslayer100]

I quick sent an email to Alumacraft customer service and they sent me original wiring diagrams for my boat. They're pretty close I think. Not perfect, because the switch panel is missing at least one switch, but it should definitely help eliminate a bunch of the wires.

Plus I can finally figure out exactly what that Acc. button does!

 

[SDMF]

I'm not sure how much more I'll need to add to my boat, but that's not a bad idea for future project possibilities.

Extra spots in the new fuse box are a godsend not just when adding new stuff, but also when gremlins appear in the older original wiring. I relish never having to dig for buried inline fuses.

 

[Duckslayer100]

Good point.

I may do both. I really want to figure out those switched. These wiring diagrams give me something to go on.

Then another fuze panel will be a little extra protection.

Now...who wants to help? There's a case of Blue Tasties in it for ya...

 

[2400]

These are really slick and waterproof. I'm using 3 of these under the hood of my Jeep and 1 one each of my trailers.

Here's a link for the ones I buy. There are 4 different ones so read the small print.

http://www.delcity.net/store/Sealed-Mini-Fuse-Panels/p_803796