Mil Dot Conversion to MOA Help

[H82bogey]

Any long range shooters on here well versed in Mil Dot conversion? I have a question.

For example, I understand 1 MOA at 100 yards is 1.01", and can do the math as you add yardage. I also understand that 1 mil is roughly 3.5" @ 100 yards. I have found lots of conversion tables to adjust for a rifle with a 100 yard zero, but can't seem to find much on a 200 yard zero. My 308 is sighted at 200, but lets say I want to shoot 300 yards, which according to the ballistic data I have, my round will drop 7.7" from 200 to 300 yards. I am using a mil dot reticle. Would that be roughly 2 mils? (3.5x2= 7) Or does the mil holdover completely change because I have it zeroed at 200?

Been looking for something online, but can't find what I'm looking for.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[SDMF]

2/3 of the way down the page in the 2nd box will be labeled "Chart Column Customization". You can add or subtract anything you want to have in your chart.

I typically print out the smallest chart I can. I pare it down to distance, elevation, and windage in 1 unit of measure (inches, MOA, or MILS). You can also mix/match. For instance, I have a few scopes w/MOA adjustments and Mil reticles. I use MOA for the elevation as I'm going to dial that and use MILS for the windage because I'm going to use the hold-off on the horizontal portion of the reticle.

What I've learned about all this is that when I overthink, or try to do conversions in my head, I get goobered up. When I hit the rangefinder, consult the chart, and let fly, things work out better.

http://www.shooterscalculator.com/ballistic-trajectory-chart.php

 

[SupressYourself]

The holdover does change with a 200 yard zero.
If you know your muzzle velocity and the BC of your bullet (most manufacturers list it), you can plug your numbers into Hornadys online calculator: https://www.hornady.com/team-hornady/ballistic-calculators/
It will list your "come ups" in both MOA and Mils.

My advice to not try to do "math" behind the scope. Be sure of your data, plug it in to a calculator, print it out and carry it with you somehow -- some tape it to their stock, etc.
As range increases, every environmental factor comes into play, but I have no trouble getting hits at 612 yards (furthest I can place my gong currently) with my 243 and 6.5 Creed just using my range card from the Hornady calculator and some 'off the cuff' wind calls.

 

[H82bogey]

Thank you both! That is exactly what I have been trying to find!!!

 

[SDMF]

The easiest way to grasp drop/drift is to STOP trying to convert it from MOA/MILS back into "inches". There's NO ruler on a critter. Your scope has an accurate measurement/adjustment system built into it and assuming you've got a chart that's accounted for known velocity, bullet BC, and atmospheric conditions, now you're only required to "measure" or "know" the distance. No more measuring nor conversions should be happening after that. Once you know the distance, you consult your chart, make the accurately graduated adjustment to your POI/POA based upon your scope's capabilities and squeeze the trigger.

There's damned few people who are able to do parabolic curve unit of measure conversions in their head. Converting MOA/MILS into inches makes about as much sense as converting speed into KP/h instead of MP/h. The speed you're traveling and the distance you'll cover in a given amount of time is the same regardless how that speed and distance are expressed, same goes for a bullet.

Hate2Bogey, the above isn't directed at you specifically, moreso trying to drive home the point to anyone with an interest in this that trying to convert a known measurement that has accurate incremental adjustments on/in the scope, back into units of measure that will make you have to guess is unproductive.

 

[Kurtr]

Forget inches. If you use mils use mils. If you use moa use moa. It's not clicks or any of that nonsense. Use the unit of measure and only that. If you range at 597 yards plug it in app says you need 4.7 Mills hold that or dial it. What it does in inches does not matter

 

[Petras]

I would recommend downloading the strelok pro app on a smartphone. It is a phenomenal app and is pretty accurate in it's calculations. I've been using it for a couple years now and love it. My longest connection to date is only 452 yards on a coyote with my 6.5cm, but after entering all my info into that app I printed up the chart it made for me and taped it to my gun.

If I read your post and your question correctly then yes, your holdover would change because you changed your zero yardage. If you were zeroed for 100 yards and your target is at 300 yards then your hold over would be figured based on the drop from 100 to 300 yards (most likely around 10 inches or just under 3 mils) If you change your zero yardage to 200, then your drop would only include the drop from 200 to 300 yards, which as you said is 7.7" so your hold over would be just a hair over 2 mils.

Like I said, the Strelok Pro app is awesome. If i remember right it's around $10 for the pro version, and it works excellent.

 

[Bed Wetter]

The easiest way to grasp drop/drift is to STOP trying to convert it from MOA/MILS back into "inches". There's NO ruler on a critter. Your scope has an accurate measurement/adjustment system built into it and assuming you've got a chart that's accounted for known velocity, bullet BC, and atmospheric conditions, now you're only required to "measure" or "know" the distance. No more measuring nor conversions should be happening after that. Once you know the distance, you consult your chart, make the accurately graduated adjustment to your POI/POA based upon your scope's capabilities and squeeze the trigger.

There's damned few people who are able to do parabolic curve unit of measure conversions in their head. Converting MOA/MILS into inches makes about as much sense as converting speed into KP/h instead of MP/h. The speed you're traveling and the distance you'll cover in a given amount of time is the same regardless how that speed and distance are expressed, same goes for a bullet.

Hate2Bogey, the above isn't directed at you specifically, moreso trying to drive home the point to anyone with an interest in this that trying to convert a known measurement that has accurate incremental adjustments on/in the scope, back into units of measure that will make you have to guess is unproductive.

Bullshit.

:;:duel

 

[H82bogey]

The easiest way to grasp drop/drift is to STOP trying to convert it from MOA/MILS back into "inches". There's NO ruler on a critter. Your scope has an accurate measurement/adjustment system built into it and assuming you've got a chart that's accounted for known velocity, bullet BC, and atmospheric conditions, now you're only required to "measure" or "know" the distance. No more measuring nor conversions should be happening after that. Once you know the distance, you consult your chart, make the accurately graduated adjustment to your POI/POA based upon your scope's capabilities and squeeze the trigger.

There's damned few people who are able to do parabolic curve unit of measure conversions in their head. Converting MOA/MILS into inches makes about as much sense as converting speed into KP/h instead of MP/h. The speed you're traveling and the distance you'll cover in a given amount of time is the same regardless how that speed and distance are expressed, same goes for a bullet.

Hate2Bogey, the above isn't directed at you specifically, moreso trying to drive home the point to anyone with an interest in this that trying to convert a known measurement that has accurate incremental adjustments on/in the scope, back into units of measure that will make you have to guess is unproductive.

No offense taken. And maybe I worded my question wrong. I don't have all the vernacular down. I simply wanted to ascertain the holdover needed for a 300 yard shot and a rifle zeroed for 200 using a mil dot scope. Although my scope adjusted in 1/4 moa per click. I guess I'm not trying to convert per say, just trying to figure how the 200 yard zero affect mil dot hold over.(I hope that makes more sense)

- - - Updated - - -

If I read your post and your question correctly then yes, your holdover would change because you changed your zero yardage. If you were zeroed for 100 yards and your target is at 300 yards then your hold over would be figured based on the drop from 100 to 300 yards (most likely around 10 inches or just under 3 mils) If you change your zero yardage to 200, then your drop would only include the drop from 200 to 300 yards, which as you said is 7.7" so your hold over would be just a hair over 2 mils.

Like I said, the Strelok Pro app is awesome. If i remember right it's around $10 for the pro version, and it works excellent.

You did read my question correctly. Although using one of the links provided up above, I plugged in my info and it is telling me I would roughly a .7 mil holdover or 2.4MOA for 300. Which is what I was trying to figure out.

I was hoping to find something like the links provided so I can print and keep a dope card with me to give me estimates for the yardages I may shoot.

Thank you all for opinions and advice. One of the reasons I love this site.

 

[Kurtr]

Strelok is your friend. Down load it. Enter your zero at 200 it will give you hold overs for what ever. What reticle are you running they have most of them on there. Also with a 2nd focal plane scope you have to be on the power it is calibrated for and then verify that is even right. I have found some scopes to be off a fair amount and that will screw you bad

 

[SupressYourself]

Another thing to consider when doing holdovers with a Mildot scope is whether the scope is First or Second focal plane (FFP vs SFP).
If it's a SFP (most hunting-type scopes are), then the dot is only worth 1 mil when the scope is at a certain magnification (usually the highest). With a FFP scope, the dots / hashes are worth the same at any magnification level.
I like to dial for both elevation and windage, but if you hold and you have a SFP scope, you need to keep this in mind.

http://rifleopticsworld.com/first-vs-second-focal-plane-scope/

 

[USMCDI]

If it were me I'd start over and do it the right way one time and be done with it, I went through 11 weeks of shit learning the Marine Corps doctrine of long range shooting and evrything was in mils. Both are units of measure and all of my rifles are moa now. Chrono your load and validate your yardages, screw holdovers and screw trying to convert mils to minutes.

 

[SDMF]

OP, I see you've got it, good that you have several resources to choose from.

l prefer to do things in MOA, because with 1/4MOA scope adjustments which are fairly standard, I only ever have to "count" to 3.

Rifle is zero'd @ 200yds and has a turret that displays each MOA as a whole number:



Now I know my rifle's zero range, my bullet's Ballistic Coefficient (BC), and my load's velocity so I enter that info into a ballistics calculator and print out the corresponding chart:



Let's say that I want to make a 500yd shot. I look at my chart and see that I need 8+2 or 8.5MOA of elevation correction so I spin the turret on my scope to 8 and then count 2 more clicks:



I've just taken the guesswork of "flat-shooting" out of the equation. Now the only guessing I have to do is guessing the wind speed and direction. Now, windage guesswork can be downright confounding because contours of the earth can cause the wind to be present, or not, or funneled and stronger than you can feel. Wind can swirl over or around a hill and really mess with you. That just takes a lot of shooting and observation time to learn, no real way to buy into that knowledge, just gotta learn it through experience.