Boat Floor Replacement

[Wlueck]

Hello all,

I am currently in the process of replacing the floor in my 98' Crestliner Fishhawk. I was just wondering if any of you have had any experience with this and if you had any advice on the matter. Just want to make sure I have all my bases covered before I get to crazy.

I plan on replacing all the floor with green-treat 3/4" plywood and then re-carpeting.

Anything will help!

Thanks,

 

[Fly Carpin]

Hello all,

I am currently in the process of replacing the floor in my 98' Crestliner Fishhawk. I was just wondering if any of you have had any experience with this and if you had any advice on the matter. Just want to make sure I have all my bases covered before I get to crazy.

I plan on replacing all the floor with green-treat 3/4" plywood and then re-carpeting.

Anything will help!

Thanks,

Tip #1: DO NOT use treated plywood. Use marine grade plywood. The salt used to treat the plywood eats aluminum.
Tip #2: Save the old floor for a template.
Tip #3: Don't do this during fishing season. The anticipation and the additional time it will inevitably take will kill you.
Tip #4: While you have the floor out, consider upgrades you'd like to see in wiring, livewell lines, etc. Now's the time.
Tip #5: DON'T USE TREATED PLYWOOD. Marine marine marine
Tip #6: Consider vinyl. If you're set on carpet, consider doing the floor in panels rather than one big sheet.

 

[Tillerman2095]

You can purchase marine grade green treat plywood @ Menards. This is what we use to re-floor boats or pontoons. It is expensive $85.00 per 4x8 sheet. You also have the option of using Nautolex Marine Flooring which is basically vinyl boat flooring or use @ least a 16oz per yard marine grade carpet. If you can go with a 20oz flooring it will hold up better.

Look on Rochford supply website they have about everything you'll need.

 

[Allen]

If you ignore Tip 1 and Tip 5, you will hate yourself down the road.

 

[Wlueck]

I spoke to a fella working at Menards and he pointed me to some green-treat that he said does NOT corrode aluminum. However, it wasn't $85.00 a sheet. It was like $35, any chance that guy was mistaken?

 

[Fly Carpin]

I spoke to a fella working at Menards and he pointed me to some green-treat that he said does NOT corrode aluminum. However, it wasn't $85.00 a sheet. It was like $35, any chance that guy was mistaken?

Possibly not. However, marine plywood is called that for a reason. Less space and fewer gaps between the sheets than any non-marine flooring. This means less chance of water soaking in. Have you looked into the non-wood options Tillerman suggested? If I could do it again (replaced last year) I'd go this route. No wood would be good. Rhyme time.

 

[Tillerman2095]

It will say Marine Grade Plywood. I remember it being expensive; but it could have come way down. Its been a couple years since I've bought some.

Nautolex Marine Flooring is a glued on flooring like carpet. Its just another option. I've haven't seen solid sheets of vinyl before; but if its available that is the way I'd go.

 

[eyexer]

no no no. never trust a guy at menards lol. I re-did the floor on my pro-v two years ago. I used the menards marine grade plywood. As mentioned use the old pieces for a template if you can get them out in one piece. I would highly recommend vinyl flooring. I made the mistake of putting carpet back in and regret it dearly. My son replaced his floor and used the vinyl and it's far nicer for many reasons. On all exposed edges use some silicone to seal the whole edge. that's where moisture gets in. As mentioned replace all livewell hoses and wiring if possible. Inspect your fuel fill/vent lines also. I'd replace my pumps too. When I did mine I replaced all pumps and replaced the flow-rite valves too. Replace all fasteners as well. You can buy them in bulk at Fastenal fairly reasonable or get em online. If you run into any snags just let me know

 

[hogslayer]

I agree with pretty much all the recommendations. I've done full floor replacements before. Definitely a good time to make changes. Last boat I did some retrofitting and added a 28 gallon livewell in the bow of the boat. The old pieces definitely make good templates. Sometimes you can find the marine grade carpet on sale at Mac's in Bismarck pretty cheap. I found that if you drag this out over several weeks the foam in the hull of the boat will expand and the new pieces cut exactly the same as the old ones will be difficult to fit. Marine grade is ideal and probably worth the money but it is super expensive. The problem with the regular green treated is the chemical they use to treat it is corrosive to aluminium when in direct contact as previously stated. However I've used it before, but only after using several coats of good primer and paint to seal the surface of the wood and also primered the aluminum stringers for extra protection. Again this is not ideal but it is a much cheaper option if you're poor like me.

 

[Bauer]

Hey,
Only 2 cents I can put up.
Penny1, re-enforce seat base areas for extra screw bite
Penny2, my dad, kind of an auto body guy, took and spread fiberglass resin on the floor once it was down to waterproof it even more and added channels to drain the water to the back of the boat.

I remember him doing it, it was a chore, but the floor will outlast the fiberglass boat now HA! Good luck

 

[BDub]

Stainless steel screws. Always.

 

[Wlueck]

Did some digging, the green-treat plywood that guy pointed me too was "MicroPro" treated plywood. On their website it says it can be in direct contact with aluminum for "interior and above ground exterior uses (i.e. decks, fences etc.)". Still seems risky though. I suppose I should bite the bullet and go with the marine grade option to make sure it gets done right.

Would it be worth it to stain/varnish the plywood prior to installation? Also, silicone on the fasteners to prevent infiltration?

Appreciate all the feedback! Hope to have it ready for the river this spring!

 

[Fly Carpin]

Did some digging, the green-treat plywood that guy pointed me too was "MicroPro" treated plywood. On their website it says it can be in direct contact with aluminum for "interior and above ground exterior uses (i.e. decks, fences etc.)". Still seems risky though. I suppose I should bite the bullet and go with the marine grade option to make sure it gets done right.

Would it be worth it to stain/varnish the plywood prior to installation? Also, silicone on the fasteners to prevent infiltration?

Appreciate all the feedback! Hope to have it ready for the river this spring!

Epoxy, poly resin, heavy duty paint would all work. But yes, definitely should coat that plywood after cut to size. Epoxy is best. Any chance you have to reduce the chance for water to contact untreated wood, do it.

 

[Wlueck]

Where can a guy find new pumps? cabelas?

 

[Fly Carpin]

Where can a guy find new pumps? cabelas?

This should have what you need. Enjoy! http://bfy.tw/Acy4

 

[3Roosters]

Does the other Do it yourself nightmares thread pertain to boats also?;:;popcorn

 

[nytebyte]

Use a product like 3m 5200 rather than any silicone product

 

[eyexer]

these guys have pumps, hoses and anything you need in that regard. install the flow-rite valves so you can drain the livewell from the dash, etc. The cost difference on your boat between that treated and marine grade plywood is trivial. you don't use that much. three sheets is about all.

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these guys have pumps, hoses and anything you need in that regard. install the flow-rite valves so you can drain the livewell from the dash, etc. The cost difference on your boat between that treated and marine grade plywood is trivial. you don't use that much. three sheets is about all. https://flow-rite.com/

 

[Retired Educator]

One does not need to use every suggestion listed as some are "one or the other" types of suggestions. All suggestions, however are useful. Do not get cheap with materials, it will cost you in the long run. Marine Grade and Stainless Steel are two of the more important but replacing hoses, wires, etc is also right up there.

 

[eyexer]

good time for any modifications too. When I did mine I removed the rear baitwell that sat on the deck up against the gunnel. I never used it and it was always in the way. It left a square opening in the gunnel which I installed a three tray tackle compartment identical to the one in the drivers console. Looks like it was like that from the factory. was going to convert the bow to rod storage but there was too much structural metal in there I didn't want to mess with. would have had to tear out all the foam and then refoam it and find a different livewell. could have been done but it was getting close to ice out so I said screw it.