Utility Trailer Floor/Deck

SDMF

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I've got an aluminum 14' tandem "3-place" V-front drive-on/drive-off that's stored outside. It's 22-23yrs old and getting some soft-spots which I think is to be expected.

I will replace with marine (not green treated) plywood like it had from the factory, my question, is, has anyone "rhino-lined" their wood decking? Obviously being a new install, it would be easy enough to do both sides. I'm wondering if it would help longevity by protecting the wood? Or, would it shorten longevity by trapping moisture underneath?

I'm planning to run all new wiring/looms as well as I know the original wires are getting brittle in some areas and it's simple to do with the decking removed. My question is mostly about the decking, but, if I'm missing something else that's easily done while it's apart, I'm all ears.
 


Tikka280ai

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Mix half used oil and half diesel fuel and coat the new wood a few times allowing it to dry between applications.

Or there is a few brands of diffrent wood oils that are commercially available
 

guywhofishes

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I used marine plywood (from Menards) to rebuild a utility pontoon and then had Line-X apply a light gray coating. It's help up, stored outside, for 20 years.

It was expensive but it worked great because it sealed the seams and the edges (the coating went right up onto channel metal holding the plywood).

In my experience, it's the bottom and edges (encased parts) that rot out because they stay wet way longer than the the exposed wood on top.

I don't think decking has the stiffness / rigidity required LB.

Down side of coatings is that any failure to seal (bolt holes, etc.) wets the wood from the inside - and it never ever dries out.

I think you're better off with water seal/beading treatment of some sort.
 

SLE

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A-lot of sled guys are putting an epoxy coating on their trailer floors especially on there enclosed trailers to help keep moisture from soaking into the wood. I used a product called rock solid 20X Deck re-surfacer in my enclosed sled trailer with pretty good luck. If you are actually using it for sleds, putting a coating of some type on and then some track mats & ski guides to help keep the carbides from digging in to the wood would greatly improve the longevity. Add in some marine grade plywood and I think it would last a really long time.
 


Allen

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Seems to me a lot of those plywood decked trailers have the decking fail because over time the plywood warps, which leaves a place for water to pool and soak in. Well, that and as mentioned the exposed edges against a metal bracket can really hold the water against the cut edge.

If you go with bed liner, I would roll it instead of spraying it.
 

Wirehair

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Have a neighbor that applied a rino-like product to his trailer bed that was about 2 years old. That was 3 years ago and it has blistered up in several areas. His theory is that moisture has gotten under the coating and likely causing some damage to the wood planking. I have a similar trailer and applied a linseed oil product when mine was a year old and the planking still looks good. Both trailers are stored outdoors.
 

Wall-eyes

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The wood has to be dry all the way. I know guys in Mandan that own Line-X business by Schwan Cadillac. I use their service for lots of things, but the product has to be dried or metal prepped perfect.
 

BDub

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Has anybody installed plywood over the top of the existing floor? Seems to me that might create a space for water.
 


D-Racer

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I used a product called Tuff Coat on a boat floor and was impressed with it, as it provided a non-skid surface along with a durable coat. Check boat supply companies as well as Amazon for best pricing.
 

1lessdog

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I put a lot of trailers together and I use Thompson water sealant on all of them. I do top and bottom and side. And it seams to work really good. After the wood is screwed down I fill the holes with the sealant just to be safe. Every 4 yrs put another coat on.
 

espringers

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i used marine grade plywood and some fancy paint in my boat. turned out better than new in my opinion. but, i honestly can't remember what the paint was. could have been just some oil based shit. but, i think it was something specifically for that type of application.
 

wslayer

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If it originally lasted 20+ yrs, I would just let it be natural. Can always either Thompson water seal or clear coat (if 100% dried out) 4-5 yrs down the road "if" needed.
 

SDMF

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Next question.

Use the old flooring as a guide, pre-drill the decking-screw holes and try to use the same holes in the AL frame, or, just use telf-tappers and sink the screws where I please?
 


1lessdog

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I use the round head torx 25 from Mac hardware. There self tapping and work really good. Use a impact driver not a drill.
 

SDMF

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I use the round head torx 25 from Mac hardware. There self tapping and work really good. Use an impact driver not a drill.
So don’t try to re-use the holes from the current decking screws?
 

guywhofishes

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Just asking to strip out old holes in aluminum if you chase down the same old holes.

I'd use self tappers and try to stay away from existing holes.

You could use old plywood pieces as templates and purposefully pre-drill (with a small drill bit) through the old pieces in order to index the new self-tapping locations on the new wood - strategically - so as to offset from existing holes appropriately.

I'm always flabbergasted how I can hit previous holes when using self-tappers while trying to miss them. Or hit a previous nail head or screw when replacing drywall, paneling, trim, etc.
 

guywhofishes

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the choice in screws these days is unreal - the quality and variety is awesome

and torx is so bulletproof compared to the others
 


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