How heavy of camper can I pull?

GSM

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Does anyone have any recommendation charts of vehicle tow rates or expertise in the field. We are looking at buying a camper and I am always seeing conflicting messages about what can pull what. I will be pulling with a 2000 Yukon XL 1500 5.3L V-8. Not planning on pulling it across the country, maybe a couple 100 miles tops. I am aware my speed will need to decrease to pull it. All campers are listed with a dry and loaded weight and I have been mostly looking at the loaded weight to be safe. Am I off base with thinking the 7,000-7,500lbs (loaded weight) is the max I want in a camper? Too heavy? Also, any thoughts on length? I am for sure not going over 30' max trailer length. Thoughts, Advice? :;:help
 


Sub_Elect

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Not sure about travel trailers but I would think you would be ok as long as you have a good weight distribution hitch and a brain!
 

raider

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if pulling thru the badlands and keeping up to traffic on a 95* day - yes, too much...

if pulling thru the red river valley on a 75* day and keeping up with traffic - you will prolly b fine...

also, few people die cuz they can't speed up fast enough... many die cuz they can't stop fast enough... i'd get the brakes and tranny cooler checked out b4 i pulled anything with that age of vehicle, unless you have kept up on service very well...

good luck...
 

GSM

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Not sure about travel trailers but I would think you would be ok as long as you have a good weight distribution hitch and a brain!
I have the brain, I think. will be getting the hitch for sure.

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if pulling thru the badlands and keeping up to traffic on a 95* day - yes, too much...

if pulling thru the red river valley on a 75* day and keeping up with traffic - you will prolly b fine...

also, few people die cuz they can't speed up fast enough... many die cuz they can't stop fast enough... i'd get the brakes and tranny cooler checked out b4 i pulled anything with that age of vehicle, unless you have kept up on service very well...

good luck...

Not too worried about keeping up with traffic. I'm never in too big of hurry.
Vehicle only has 46,000 miles on it, but will be going in for a tune up and check of a few things
 


Tikka280ai

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get a brake controller and a camper with brakes will help a lot too. anti sway hitch is a must.

depending on camper size I personally would be tempted to add airbags to the rear suspension but that's just me
 

johnr

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get a brake controller and a camper with brakes will help a lot too. anti sway hitch is a must.

depending on camper size I personally would be tempted to add airbags to the rear suspension but that's just me

This for sure.
I had a TT for a few years, pulled my 16ft boat behind it too. They guys at the local RV shop put trailer brakes in my F150 I had at the time. No way I would have pulled it through the sometimes steep hills in the badlands without trailer brakes.
 

shorthairsrus

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The hitch weight is the kicker I do have a guy at my office though that pulled over a 40footer (park model) with a half ton. His truck imo is squatted permanently.

Anyway I got all worked up and u would be surprised what u can pull. I would say your in that 28 ft range max?
 

roosterfish

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I have 2005 unit(same). and a 26ft rated 7000lbs. went to minneapolis to buy it 2 years ago. 2010 model. Never had sway bars pulling it home 65-70 mph with no problems with the wind. BUT next 2 trips 100 miles each with side wind SUCKED big time. put bars on now after that and no problems. Also have brake controller. I also change tranny fluid,oil and most important thing due a COOLANT flush!!! Coolant is the number one cause of heavy equipment oil pan failure.LOL I never understand why people ignore it in vehicles it is cheap
 

2400

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What condition, size and load rating are your tires and what gear ratio do you have?
 


db-2

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Well I would make a comment about my 97 dodge cummins 2500 5 speed 4.10 gears with positive traction as I pull my fifth wheel plus pontoon but then I guess we all know what the dodge will do. Aye just nice not to have the vehicle always shifting up and down. Just put in fifth gear and sit back and cruise at whatever speed suits one. Db
 

all4eyes

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Brake controller, equalizer hitch, and a sway bar. I'd watch the weight try to stay around 7000 to 7500 for that rig. Think you'll be limited to around 26' if you get a slide. Make sure your tires are up to participate. I run 10 ply tires on camper and truck as it helps get rid of that squishy feeling. Also make sure your hitch is set properly.
 

PrairieGhost

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I think we are on camper number six. My first was a 24ft travel trailer. I bought a new 1993 GMC half ton with a 350. The dealer said I could pull any camper I wanted. Nope. So we traded for a new 5600 pound fifth wheel. Couldn't do a good job with that either so we bought a ultralight 23 foot fifth wheel. That 4600 pounds and pulled ok. Coming back from Minnesota and 20 miles west of Fargo I tried to pass an 18 wheeler doing 70. I could get up speed, but the air coming off his front stopped me. I could make it right up to his door then it stopped me. So we traded trucks and campers. Now with 17000 pounds behind I have to watch so I don't brake the speed limit. I once pulled that little fifth wheel to the Badlands for turkey season. 45 mile an hour wind, 50 mile per hour truck, five miles to the gallon.
 

Wild and Free

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Here in ND with the lack of GCVW enforcement what difference does it make? It you can get it rolling you are golden is the rule of thumb for most. Stopping it or keeping it stable on the road is a minor issue not to be worried about by anyone except the insurance company when its in a pile in the ditch.
 

shorthairsrus

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Keep in mind the new trailers r lighter plus the technology in the new trucks r better. I didn't notice a thing it was almost like pulling my boat. I have a f150 crew with the Eco. I was worried and if I remember the total rig weight including truck was 14k. That Ford alone weighs heavy. Wind and the built in anti sway of the truck kicks in these aren't your daddy's campers or trucks.
 


LBrandt

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Here in ND with the lack of GCVW enforcement what difference does it make? It you can get it rolling you are golden is the rule of thumb for most. Stopping it or keeping it stable on the road is a minor issue not to be worried about by anyone except the insurance company when its in a pile in the ditch.
If your insurance agent see's that your rates are going up or canceled.
 

shorthairsrus

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t75811328.jpg

2100 rpms at 68mph -- bob seger -- against the wind

= ---- some serious detonation in those cylinders 7.8mpg

Dimensions
Length
35.42 ft. (425 in.)

Width
8 ft. (96 in.)

Height
11.17 ft. (134 in.)

Interior Height
6.92 ft. (83 in.)


Weight
Dry Weight
6,529 lbs.

Payload Capacity
3,061 lbs.

GVWR
9,590 lbs.

Hitch Weight
790 lbs.



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oops 7.5 mpg
 

GSM

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Does the length of the trailer matter in comparison to the weight. As mentioned above a lot of the newer campers are way lighter than the comparative length of years past. Depending on the brand and model I can get a 26-28 foot camper that weighs 7,500lbs or a 28-30 foot camper that weighs 7,500lbs. Does the length affect anything other than the sway the camper will have or weight distribution. Both of which can be mitigated by an equalizer/sway hitch. Also when they advertise a 28' or whatever length camper the total length is still always a couple feet longer with hitch and bumper.Gear.jpgTire 1.jpgtire 2.jpgTire 3.jpg

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Tires are in good shape. As far as load capacity to the tire I am not very savvy with all of that tire info, It is listed on the pics. As I mentioned 46,000 miles on the Yukon and I don't believe these are factory tires.
 

shorthairsrus

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that yukon weighs 5k or so --- your more than good with your tires. Check the GMC sites -- but i think with equalizing hitch your good for newer 28footer. tongue weight will be the only issue you will have and most likely you will equalize that out so to speak. ARe you pulling it every weekend? The length and lighter will affect i suppose the sway in the wind--- that can be offset by buying a better hitch. IMO lighter effects how your going to use the camper. Lighter camper may not be as warm in the cold, noise penetrates more, wind etc.

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For fishing, drinkin my light 31 works for me -- that is until tonight when the tornado whistles blow!!!
 

2400

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Does the length of the trailer matter in comparison to the weight. As mentioned above a lot of the newer campers are way lighter than the comparative length of years past. Depending on the brand and model I can get a 26-28 foot camper that weighs 7,500lbs or a 28-30 foot camper that weighs 7,500lbs. Does the length affect anything other than the sway the camper will have or weight distribution. Both of which can be mitigated by an equalizer/sway hitch. Also when they advertise a 28' or whatever length camper the total length is still always a couple feet longer with hitch and bumper.rs.jpeg20180208_200256.jpg25643B71-4C5A-4EBB-9FF0-6C764E7E299D.jpgIMG_20180208_222052.jpg

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Tires are in good shape. As far as load capacity to the tire I am not very savvy with all of that tire info, It is listed on the pics. As I mentioned 46,000 miles on the Yukon and I don't believe these are factory tires.

Those are passenger tires made for a good ride NOT towing. They start with P (passenger) NOT LT (light truck) they have a MAXIMUM load rating of 2400 # that includes the weight of the truck, people in it, all the shit you pack, gas AND the tongue weight of the trailer. I'll bet of you weigh the truck with full tank, honestly figure the weight of the people, any animals and the stuff you bring, you'll be surprised as hell. Tires are cheap insurance!

I'd put new LT 10 ply rated tires on the truck and spare, then sell what you have for a few bucks. You might get enough out of them to pay for one of your new tires. Thats cheap insurance against a blow out that wrecks your truck and new trailer.

Here are the things that make towing safer and more enjoyable. A good quality trailer brake controller, the correct hitch height, a good coupler and the best ball and hitch you can buy NOT the one at Wally World, sway bars that are adjusted correctly, good tires on the trailer, not the ones made out of paper that they put on at the factory (great place for an upgrade when you buy), a dedicated for the trailer jack that works on the trailer and a 4 way that fits the trailer lug nuts and 2 spares. Trailer tires always seem to blow out in pairs.

And make sure your new trailer has the right insurance and all the contents are covered along with your tow vehicle.
 


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