Pistol Hunting

[Jigaman]

SO a Glock 19 in 9mm with a 4" barrel is legal in ND to hunt deer?

9mm would likely bounce off the deer, similar to what happens with the 243...

 

[LBrandt]

If you want to test for flinch just load 5 rounds give her a spin then shoot. When you hit the empty and your muzzle is a foot high you got flinch.

 

[ND 41 Hunter]

There used to be a minimum case length regulation by ND G&F for handguns. Now it just reads "Handguns must have a minimum barrel length of 4 inches and be .35 cal. or larger. In addition, any centerfire handgun designed to fire a legal rifle cartridge shall be legal." The 9mm has a .355 cal. bullet, but so does the .380 ACP. In a quick search i found the Browning 1911-380 is available in a 4.25" barrel. I hope no one would consider the 380 a viable deer hunting cartridge.

 

[PrairieGhost]

It doesn't appear that I'll ever cure my flinch with a handgun. It's comical to watch it's so bad.

My way of curing flinch goes against most all of the rules. Years ago I read an article called the 10.91mm mag. Hornady had just come out with a double cannelare on their 300 gr 44 cal XTP. When loaded to the back cannelare this guy was loading the same amount of H110 as the book called for with the 240 gr 44 magnum XTP. Now I have a 310 gr cast with a double cannelare. After you fight with yourself for three or four cylinder loads pick up the 45ACP and you think your shooting a toy. After a few rounds with the 310gr I have absolutely zero flinch with the 45ACP, 357 mag, 9mm, or factory loads in the 44 mag. I know most magazine writers will tell you heavy loads will cause a flinch. Maybe, but afterwards everything is a pussycat. Tell yourself over and over it's not going to kick. Hard to do have five or six rounds, but it's what you have to do to convince yourself. Even if you do reload I wouldn't suggest trying it in a cheap revolver. Your best bet is to buy the Buffalo Bore 305 gr bear load.

 

[SDMF]

My way of curing flinch goes against most all of the rules. Years ago I read an article called the 10.91mm mag. Hornady had just come out with a double cannelare on their 300 gr 44 cal XTP. When loaded to the back cannelare this guy was loading the same amount of H110 as the book called for with the 240 gr 44 magnum XTP. Now I have a 310 gr cast with a double cannelare. After you fight with yourself for three or four cylinder loads pick up the 45ACP and you think your shooting a toy. After a few rounds with the 310gr I have absolutely zero flinch with the 45ACP, 357 mag, 9mm, or factory loads in the 44 mag. I know most magazine writers will tell you heavy loads will cause a flinch. Maybe, but afterwards everything is a pussycat. Tell yourself over and over it's not going to kick. Hard to do have five or six rounds, but it's what you have to do to convince yourself. Even if you do reload I wouldn't suggest trying it in a cheap revolver. Your best bet is to buy the Buffalo Bore 305 gr bear load.

I don't have anything bigger than a 6" .357 magnum. I dip the muzzle of my S&W 41 and my ?7.5" SuperMatic Trophy with a friggin BRAKE!

When I was ~10-11, I used to shoot dad's nickel 4" S&W 19 or 586 (can't recall which) w/very light-loaded wadcutters. So, one day we're out looking for live pigeons to practice shotgunning, I look in the back seat and there's another nickel S&W and I start bouncing around the car wanting to shoot it assuming it's the one I had shot a lot. I should've looked a little closer as it was a 6" nickel 29. So, we set up a target, dad loads up the cylinder for me, I take 1 shot w/full-house Rem 240's. The pistol stopped recoil nearly straight up in the air @ arms length. I have yet to be able to undo what that 1 shot did. When dad passed away, I gave away his Redhawk 44Mag, I was too much of a pansy to ever shoot it.

 

[PrairieGhost]

That's why I mentioned what I do goes against all advise others give, but it works for me. Sort of by accident. One day I would flinch then be ticked off enough to control it for a month or so then flinch again. One day I was shooting those hot 300's and when I had enough I switched to my Kimber 1911. It felt so light I had no flinch at all. I still find it hard to control the old brain when squeezing one of those 300's off. Even tougher as I get older. I dropped the hammer on six of those new cast 310 gr the other day and I had not even peaked out the loads yet and my wrist ached after. I'm going for 1250 fps out of my 4 inch barrel and calling it quits there.

 

[Ugly Dogs]

What is the preference in the .44 revolver or semi-auto? I think I'm going to go with the revolver. The only semi-auto I have shot was the desert eagle along time ago.

 

[Obi-Wan]

Chose the one that feels the most comfortable in your hand. I was looking at the SW 629 classic and the desert eagle but decided on the SW because of how it fit my hands.

 

[Bed Wetter]

I had a .500 S&W revolver. Nope.

I hear a .40 Glock will take down a moose, but you gotta shoot it head on from about 15 feet.

 

[ND 41 Hunter]

With the big three drawing coming up, I got to thinking of moose/elk with handgun. I've taken five whitetails with my 41 mags and one muley buck with my Rem XP-100 in 7MM BR, but has anyone here have experience with the S&W 460? I got within 60 yards of 4 moose last year deer hunting.